A big valve 8valve is better than a 16valve head for 99% of tbricks

[JohnMc]

Originally Posted by 2manyturbos

Hopefully, along with a roll cage. A lightweight rusty shell with primitive steering, brakes, suspension and insane HP. What could possibly go wrong?

Pfft, safer than a motorcycle! (but yeah... that's why I didn't do it already - it would need a lot of other work).


Back on the TOY COPS, I think I may have had the application wrong above. Here's a pic of the part number on the coils I have. They're just a bit under 6 inches long rubber boot to top of coil.

[culberro]

Thanks for that! Looks like they're for a 1zzfe engine, so the baby 1.8L Corolla 2000-2008.

RockAuto has the Standard Motor Products ones for $25/ea.

[JohnMc]

1zz, 2zz, whatever it takes.

[RvolvoR]

Originally Posted by culberro

Only if you get the old OEM ones from a junkyard. So basically what any TBer would do.
The updated replacement ones are a lot better. I’m waiting for Asher to come in here and tell use that they all suck.

When they have 80-100k on them or they are some cheapy aftermarket replacements they suck...but, they are what I have in my Audi and they work great. I would use them on my whiteblock as well if they were an inch shorter or the short version of them were readily available in the US. Have I replaced a bunch of them? yep, but I have also replaced a bunch of toyota and BMW coils as well. If the MB coils (M272/273) were the right length...those would be really choice. I have only replaced 2-3 of them over the last 10 years.

[RvolvoR]

Originally Posted by culberro

Thanks for that! Looks like they're for a 1zzfe engine, so the baby 1.8L Corolla 2000-2008.

RockAuto has the Standard Motor Products ones for $25/ea.

avoid SMP garbage like the plague

[RvolvoR]

Originally Posted by Harlard

So the VW kids go for R8 coils because they are long and red then?

OEM R8 coils are better...the aftermarket ones are usually just the same as the grey/black coils...but RED for more power.