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patrickstars 1983 242 4.8L/AR5 swap

I have a two-piece shaft in my car with a slip yoke and slip center section. It's fine, but the only thing keeping the front shaft located in place is the rubber in the center support bushing. It's just extra peace of mind and makes the thing less likely to vibrate or behave in a weird manner.
 
Thats a good idea, any issues with routing the hose from back to front?

Any pictures in your build thread? Might need to read through again

no issues, I reused the long run of hose I had from a spare wagon. I've got it running inside the car along the inside of the rocker basically, underneath the carpet.

I think there's a pic in there, but can happily snap a few of anything that would be helpful for you.
 
When this tranny is used with a live rear axle moving up and down/swinging through an arc, you have to have some provision for slip, even if you go with a CV joint on the tranny end. IRS applications are a different animal.

Conveniently, volvo 240s come with a center slip joint as standard!
 
This is V interesting, I like the AR5 Transmissions I have rowed in the past, seems like a legit option for ellis/manual swaps. I'm going to keep an eye on this.
 
I haven't had an issue with a two piece and using our HD center support bearing. been running one for the last two years with no issues.
 
I regret that I didn't do more research before buying the truck AR5, if I had bought one from a Solstice or Sky, I think it would fit perfect. Can't confirm though

I have a solstice ar5 behind a white block in my project 242...with a jzx100 shift housing, the shifter lines up in the hole (towards the back of it, but it?ll work fine) without drama.
 
Interesting, I would have thought slip-yolk would be more attractive. Any reason why you prefer the CV?

From what I can tell, if you get the slingshot tailhousing you can bolt on toyota shifters, so thats definitely a plus. They're just more expensive from the get-go

Also, drift motion makes a CV to 1310 flange adapter...
 
I was under the impression he was gonna one-piece it....

A 1 piece shaft on anything somewhat low slams into the rear structure of the car around the seatbelt area and is also nearly impossible to get pinion angle set perfectly with no vibes.
 
A 1 piece shaft on anything somewhat low slams into the rear structure of the car around the seatbelt area and is also nearly impossible to get pinion angle set perfectly with no vibes.

Simply not true....said the guy with one that's been somewhat low and had a one piece driveshaft behind V8 power spinning smooth as glass since 1996.

If you get it very low and you hit a big enough bump (compression) with soft enough springs -- it does indeed want to hit on the passenger side about 2/3 or way back.
 
Simply not true....said the guy with one that's been somewhat low and had a one piece driveshaft behind V8 power spinning smooth as glass since 1996.

If you get it very low and you hit a big enough bump (compression) with soft enough springs -- it does indeed want to hit on the passenger side about 2/3 or way back.

straight up, you're wrong and you also need to stop posting on every single thread like you know everything about every car and every engine. I and multiple others have tried 1 piece driveshafts (on multiple cars) and it doesn't work if the car is more than an inch or so lower than stock. Also, it lowers the critical speed of the driveshaft and makes setting pinion angle more of a pain.
 
Nothing quite like a little Sunday night turbobricks drama over what "somewhat low" means....LOL.

Repetitive -- but relevant given the OP's project. Can you lower one noticeably and make a one-piece work? No doubt. Can you get one low enough that you have clearance issues with a one-piece? Of course you can.

For the OP's swap, you've got to pay attention to pinion angle and the new engine tranny angle no matter which driveshaft approach you choose. You've also got to pay attention to how high (or low) the engine/tranny combo is mounted. Might you need adjustable length upper arms to make things work? You might, depending on the set up. In my case - 15 years with stock upper arms and a one piece driveshaft, lower than stock but not "slammed" -- no vibrations. That's with a different engine/tranny and a lot of attention paid to the height and angle it was mounted at.

As for critical speed - not sure why anyone would put a one-piece in without designing it for the critical speed that's needed for how the car is gonna be used. Plenty of online calculators (not a complex calc) to help most anyone determine what OD and wall thickness they're gonna need (in AL or steel) so they don't have a critical speed problem. ANY reputable driveshaft shop will look into that as a matter of course. And plenty of people who just picked something up at the junkyard that was the right length and then were surprised when it failed - often spectacularly. Anyone who has a bit of experience successfully swapping drivelines knows this stuff.

Lots of lowered V8/240's out there with both one-piece and two-piece driveshafts that work just fine. And some that don't work fine, usually because the swapper didn't understand how the changes were gonna affect things. Two-piece or one-piece can work - they just present different challenges. With any car/truck -- if you're gonna put it on the ground -- you're gonna have clearance issues with a one-piece. That shouldn't surprise anyone that's paying attention to the right things.

It's not rocket science guys, at least if it's not your first rodeo.
 
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