• Hello Guest, welcome to the initial stages of our new platform!
    You can find some additional information about where we are in the process of migrating the board and setting up our new software here

    Thank you for being a part of our community!

Hackster's Lifted T56 swapped 940

As always, interesting build. Pretty clean starting point with this car, like the color combo. I'd love to see a more "typical" Hackster build on a nice 9 series.

Glad to hear you like the platform.

Thanks. It is a pretty clean car, but its far from perfect. The clear on the roof is peeling pretty bad and the hood paint has started to come off in places. I totally dig it for this purpose, Its a big lady to dance around with on the track though =)

Add about a 1/4" spacer (more if needed) between the center support cross member plate and the center support and that will reduce or eliminate the take off vibration.

That is what I have been doing. Spaced up the trans as far as it would go and have dropped the carrier bearing down about .5" now.

The transition to the Dark Side is nearly complete.

For a driver, yeah its a better car than a 240. 240 is waaaayyyyy cooler =)

Slapped some new wipers on the turd last night and spaced down the carrier bearing another 1/8" and its damn near vibration free on take offs.

Going to try and knock out some maintenance tonight, coolant hoses, fuel filter, cap, rotor and plugs are on the agenda.

Oh and a boost controller. That is going to make it more reliable :omg:

Wish me luck.

Sean
 
I am going to need to find some photo worthy stuff for this thread :-P

Good night last night, Asher and the twins stopped by to shoot the **** and watch me work.

Maintenance!!!

New spark plugs and rotor, (Cap on order still), new fuel filter, drained all coolant, replaced all of the coolant hoses, heater hoses, turbo feed and return hoses, new metal heater control valve, oil fill cap seal, new OEM thermostat and seal and refilled and burped the coolant.

Installed a GrimmSpeed Manual Boost Controller. Its a very nice piece, has detents in it for accuracy and a large knob for making adjustments, came with a mounting bracket, hose and everything needed to install.

Got the turd on the road. It idles waaay better with some fresh plugs and a new rotor, could have been fuel filter too so glad I did all of the maintenance.

3 psi, turn it up, 17 psi, turn it down and settled at 12 lbs. What a difference. Not only more boost but it comes on a lot faster too.

Its so much different from what I normally work on. I am usually having to figure out every single part and piece, this was easy order parts, remove parts, install parts.

This has been a nice pretty easy fun project and it actually drives really well. I still have a few things left to do but its damn close to daily driver. Been driving it exclusively since last Thursday and no problems so far.

Ill probably take this thing up for XXX in March. Who else is going?

Sean
 
So wait... you're not going full hydro and 20+ inches of wheel travel?

Not for now at least. Its pretty damn civilized as a daily driver, far better than expected to be 100% honest. If anything it needs an LS swap. I believe if I am resourceful I could LS Swap this thing for close to the same amount it would cost me to regear it...

Thank goodness they still make round lights! :cool:

I agree, I love how they look on the front of this turd.

Been driving this thing everyday for work now. Had a little stumble the other day where the idle dropped when the defrost was running. It dropped so much that the check engine light came on.

So I got the new cap installed and also threw on all new plug wires. That did not fix the low idle.

Checked the TPS and same thing set as per the manual.

So last weekend I tore the throttle body off the car and gave it a good cleaning, removed the IAC and cleaned that as well.

Idle was up, way up. Made a few adjustments to Base idle and linkage and its better. Idles about 1000 rpm which is better than the 450 it was before.

I am thinking about grabbing a junkyard throttle body and cleaning it up as good as I can and throwing a new IAC motor on it for good measure.

I am also going to swap out to Amsoil fluids in the trans. The Mobile 1 synthetic ATF doesnt do much to quiet the thing down and its a little loud. I suspect that the adapter isnt 100% centered and that is causing the coast noise. So I am going to swap out to Amsoil Manual Trans Synchromax and see how that does.

Still have an oil leak to deal with as well, hoping that a oil filter adapter to block o ring and new oil fill cap will get me back to a clean garage floor soon.

Sean
 
Replaced the Mobile 1 Full synthetic with Amsoil Manual Transmission Synchromax last night after work. Huge difference, trans still makes noise but its probably 70% reduced from what it was. I am an Amsoil dealer and will probably exclusively run their product from now on after placing and receiving my first order....it was uber easy.

Been messing with the non functioning Cruise control for a while and was messing with it last night, checking the brake pedal switch and and hoses and discovered that I have no brake lights.

Started checking things, and after checking the fuse and the bulb failure relay out I found a dead switch at the pedal.

Picked up a new one today and that should be fixed.

Also reset the SRS light about 100 miles ago and it has not yet returned.

Have one really annoying oil leak left to deal with and I believe its either at the block to oil filter adapter or the turbo drain tube to block, there is a lot of oil in that area.

Picked up the o ring so Ill give it a go this weekend.

Found I need some inner and outer tie rods up front too. Starting to remember why I drive newer **** for the daily =)

:roll:

Sean
 
It is probably both the aluminum housing to block o-ring and aluminum housing to water cooled oil cooler o-ring that is leaking. They are always leaking by now if they have never been changed. Make sure you have the o-rings for both before you start the job.
 
It is probably both the aluminum housing to block o-ring and aluminum housing to water cooled oil cooler o-ring that is leaking. They are always leaking by now if they have never been changed. Make sure you have the o-rings for both before you start the job.

I already did the adapter to oil cooler o ring.....so this will be the second time.

It doesnt look like its been opened up in the last 20 years so this will be the time. It looks like it should be easy enough to replace, undo the large bolt, separate, clean the area, install new o ring maybe with some grease to hold it in place and reassmble.

Do you happen to know what size the head on that bolt is Roy?

Thanks for the pointers, I believe I have either a bad vacuum pump or turn signal stock on the cruise either that or it was tied into the automatic somehow and its not getting a proper in gear signal.

Since I have you, is intermittent wipers an easy upgrade?

Thanks in advance,

Sean
 
It is probably both the aluminum housing to block o-ring and aluminum housing to water cooled oil cooler o-ring that is leaking. They are always leaking by now if they have never been changed. Make sure you have the o-rings for both before you start the job.

I have the 940 oil cooler on my 242 and can confirm that it was the source of an annoying leak and that it was easy to fix with new o-rings.

The car is looking more & more fun Sean. Nice score on those fuzzy seats.
 
Well yesterday was a **** day. Ever have days where everything goes sideways and you are just pussed off at the world? Yesterday was that day.

Pucked up a new block to filter o ring from IPD. It was black not green so I questioned it. They said its the right one they just changed the color.

It had a twist to the oring, i tried heat and worked it out with my hands installed it and apparently that little piece of **** fell out of the groove when I tightened it up and left a massive ****ing mess on the garage floor.

Luckily for me the Twins had a new in package one and a valve cover gasket.

They stopped by last night and hung out whichbwas the highlight of my day. Installed the new O ring, adjusted the valves......all of the intake were waaaay too tight. Removed leaking vakve cover gasket and installed the new one.

Started car and it didnt puke out all its oil this time.

Thanks again for the help fellas, much appreciated.

Going to try fixing the turbo oil drain tube leak next, replace a weeping water pump seal, new inner and outer tie rods and get an alignment.

Cheers!!!
 

Attachments

  • 20200131_182113.jpg
    20200131_182113.jpg
    207.4 KB · Views: 186
  • 20200131_184500.jpg
    20200131_184500.jpg
    194.7 KB · Views: 187
I had 2 different sets of plans for the weekend that both fell through so I decided to take on the rearend.

I had snagged some parts off a maroon 740 wagon from Sherwood pick n pull a few weeks back. NA, auto car.

So I got up early on Sunday loaded up my tools, some straps and a hand truck and went for it.

No tag on the rearend so stuffed a pry bar on one brake and counted driveshaft. Spun the drivers side brake around 2 times and counted 4.+ revs. Good for me.

Yarded that thing out in just a little bit of rain. Not too terrible all things considered.

rRdEX6Hh.jpg


And created this to get it from the very back of the wrecking yard up the hill to the cashier.

It was a heavy sum bitch but worked great!!

kVGs62zh.jpg


Luckily this was not a dana 60 or something heavier or I would have needed some help.

They were nice and charged me for a drum brake rearend so I think it was $120.00.

Got it home and cleaned it up, Pulled the diff cover off, open diff, 41-10 so confirmed it was a 4.10 gear. Cleaned up the cover added new fluid and its ready to go in.

I have a couple issues that stopped from swapping the locker. I have bolt on wheel spacers from the previous owner that are stuck on the axle. I have tried everything I have to get them off with no luck including heat and hammers. But I like them so I am going to try more heat at a later date.

Also want to see how the 4.10's do and if they are enough gear.

Onward we go

Out with the old and a nice driveway **** show for sunday.

TlLkvmdh.jpg


ltuzTkRh.jpg


Got the new axle swapped in with a little help from the wife to get it in place.

I also cut the small locators off of the pads for the axle so I could rotate it and set the pinion angle and hopefully take some bind out of the rear suspension with the adjustable links installed.

wRdgfXsh.jpg


I didnt expect it to make a huge change going from 3.73 to 4.10 but it is huge. The car drives much better, gearing is drastically improved and the car takes off from a stop effortlessly. Before you had to feather the clutch on flat ground and when you would get the clutch engaged it would bog down. 25 mph corners can now be had in third instead of second. 6th gear is usable above 60 on the freeway.

The other big benefit of this was getting a functional emergency brake. I truly use this as my daily driver and not having an e brake just plain sucked.

I installed the cable that was on the junkyard axle so that required a console and rear seat removal.

E brake cable installed and adjusted. E-brake works fantastic!!

I removed the IPD rear sway bar and I like the additional flex, but it does make the car much more of a handful to drive. I will likely reinstall it or if someone has a stock 940 rear bar I would be willing to try that too. Feels like it needs something in the rear its very squishy on accel and decel now and doesnt track that well.

All in all, totally worth a day and $140.00 including fluids.

As of this time its pretty damn civilized. Stereo sounds killer, fun to drive a turbo manual, all of the small maintenance items have been addressed.

Fun car......who is ready to buy a killer lifted t56 swapped 940 :)

Sean
 
I don't quite understand your spacer comments. IIRC, the locker requires the axles from the locker to be used. At least one of them. One of the axles in a locker rear end is shorter than the open differential versions. IOW, swap the G-80 carrier and axles into the rear axle you just installed.
 
I don't quite understand your spacer comments. IIRC, the locker requires the axles from the locker to be used. At least one of them. One of the axles in a locker rear end is shorter than the open differential versions. IOW, swap the G-80 carrier and axles into the rear axle you just installed.

How do you propose removing the axles? Spacers are stuck on the axle, rotors cannot be removed currently so I cannot access the hole in the axle to remove the bolts for the bearing retainer.

Not that it matters at all but it is a Dana powerloc not a G80.
 
Roy was saying the g80 rear ends have shorter axles then the non g80 740 or 940 rear ends. The g80 axles are also a little bit thicker but not where they go into the diff.

Why can't you use a air impact to remove the spacer nuts? Don't have one? Breaker bar with a cheater bar on it? Jump on it? Best to do it with the rear still in the car so you can lock it up with ebrake.
 
Roy was saying the g80 rear ends have shorter axles then the non g80 740 or 940 rear ends. The g80 axles are also a little bit thicker but not where they go into the diff.

Why can't you use a air impact to remove the spacer nuts? Don't have one? Breaker bar with a cheater bar on it? Jump on it? Best to do it with the rear still in the car so you can lock it up with ebrake.

The nuts aren't the problem. The PO of the car machined spacers with such tight tolerances that they are stuck on the centerbore to the axle.
 
The nuts aren't the problem. The PO of the car machined spacers with such tight tolerances that they are stuck on the centerbore to the axle.

Time to get a big propane heater and destroy a set of rotors.
 
Back
Top