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#751 |
Astro Zombie
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Reading pa
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![]() A bunch of people have now showed me pics of your car, I think you may have surpassed the "have you seen that Volvo with the twin turbo V8" (Volvette) among my non Volvo car friends haha.
Sweet car! Congrats on getting recognition for all the hard work!
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Feedback thread https://forums.tbforums.com/showthread.php?t=144924 1978 242, 5.3 L33 1979 242, MS, R brakes 2006 V50 T5 AWD @ 17 PSI |
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#752 | |
Board Member
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Florida
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![]() Quote:
Also got my 77 in the garage and put in a few hours last night after work in the sake of Hacksters pro quality build ! Thanks so much for putting us volvo folks in a good spot light ! YOU THE JAM ! *what's the difference between jelly and Jam ?? Hehehe |
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#753 | ||||
Board Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Portland Or.
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![]() Quote:
Car is in January 2020 Super Street on shelves now....even though I dont have an actual copy in hand =) Quote:
I love that the people outside the Volvo world dig it for the most part. Quote:
Quote:
Sean |
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#754 |
Board Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Portland Or.
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![]() Well, not too much exciting going on with the car.
I did get the Williams 102mm boosted throttle body and got it installed. What a piece of artwork. ![]() ![]() Also spent some time getting the tensioner reset closer to the engine and measured and picked up a new Gates HD belt to run this setup. Still just a 6 rib. Ill be curious if I need to upgrade to an 8 rib setup. ![]() Spent a little time getting the valve covers all cleaned up, replaced some seals on the cover bolts and got them on. ![]() Also took some time this weekend and installed new NGK BR7EF plugs gapped to .022 Installed the 1000 cc resized LSA injectors. I also found the reason for the leak at the fuel rail connection. Not sure exactly how this happened but I have ordered a new fitting. ![]() Also re routed one of the crankcase ventillation lines as it was hitting the power steering pulley the way I had it routed before. Should be a non issue now. It goes back and around the power steering reservoir instead of in front of it. ![]() ![]() Have a few parts on order to clean up some more plumbing. AN steam port kit to get rid of more hose clamps for serviceability. Also have a raw radiator on its way, this time a 3 core with no fittings on it so Ill be taking a shot at building and welding up a new radiator.....probably tack it up myself and have someone else do the final welding on it since I am still pretty new to aluminum stuff and really don't want to screw it up. Cheers!! |
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#755 |
Board Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Portland Or.
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![]() Well the new Radiator showed up and even though its supposed to be the same size just a 3 core and an inch thicker, that proved to be not the case. So here we go.
![]() This sucked working in the painted engine bay I did everything I could to try and protect the finished paint as good as possible with weld paper and lots of towels and tape. ![]() ![]() ![]() Capped the ends and built a tube tie the two front frame rails together. ![]() Pads that fit up into the channel of the radiator bottom will get rubber pads on top. I got tabs in place for the lower intercooler mounting bracket as along with the tabs to hold the front of the IPD Aluminum skid plate. Did a little clean up and taping and shot some paint on it. ![]() ![]() I have the upper radiator mounting bracket all done and it all fits under the existing header panel so win win. Moving onto the fitting up the Inlets and Outlets as well as the filler. Hope to have it back in one piece in the next week and then onto fitting up a tray to direct the air from the airdam to the Radiator to get some additional airflow up to the radiator at speed. Going to move on to the splined front sway bar after that. Anyone on here done one before on a 240? Sean |
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#756 |
Board Member
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Portland Oregon
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![]() We are going to
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STSmachining |
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#757 |
Board Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Portland Or.
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![]() Been out in the garage after work with my head down running beads on aluminum for a few nights. Talked with Nathan a bit and got some pointers, watched a couple of you tube videos and decided that I was going to tackle this radiator build on my own.
I have learned a bunch of stuff through this process and is why I like building **** on my own rather than farming it out to others. Clean clean clean. This stuff likes to be clean. My process was acetone wipe down, then scrub really well with a stainless wire brush, when I thought it was clean enough scrub again. Not being an aluminum welder I was not used to this much cleaning and found that the cleaner the surface was with the best fitup possible netted the best welds. So I started to mock up the radiator, I first built the upper mount that nests in the top of the radiator since it didnt need to hold water or be perfect since you wont see much of it and it had pretty descent results. So on we go. The plan was to be able to keep the existing upper radiator panel since I have a lot of work into it and like the way it turned out. You can see though not mch wiggle room in placement of the filler. I had to make a small spacer to get the filler up about 1/2" to clear the panel. ![]() All in place and fitment should work great. Probably need to redo the lower radiator hose but upper should go right back on. ![]() Not being very familiar with aluminum and welding some thin stuff here to mismatched thicknesses was a little nerve racking but all in all I am pretty happy with the results. The radiator had just the core and end tanks on, all of the fittings and filler were done by me. ![]() ![]() ![]() I have been sweating this for weeks. Now that its done I can move on. Get the fans mounted up, button up all of the plumbing and reinstall all removed components, fill with fluids and get ready to start the tune process again. Cheers!!! Sean |
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#758 |
Aero challenged
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Vancouver, WA
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![]() First class. My understanding is that welding aluminum takes a big hit of heat initially, then one must back off?
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#759 |
equal opportunity car guy
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Tucson ish
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![]() Nicely done! Way to tackle it.
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_____________________________________________ 80 Bertone (part-time driver) learn how to 5.0-Volvo here.... http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=250257 B20 sound! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6FpMWALskko 242, https://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=344891 |
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#760 | |
Board Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Portland Or.
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![]() Quote:
Thanks man!! Much appreciated. Sean Havent touched the car, only thing left is to get the wiring buttoned up, get a mount for the power steering cooler and get the frontend installed. Still waiting on parts for the oil cooler install. Then I can start on the tuning and hope that the dry weather holds out for that. Merry Christmas and happy new year to all my fellow Volvo peeps!! Sean |
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#761 |
Board Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Portland Or.
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![]() Havent touched the car in almost a month and its been a nice break. When I was down at OPTIMA Invitational LSX Magazine contacted me about shooting some photos of the car for a write up.
I had no idea that it was going to be some of the best photos I have ever seen of the car. Check it out if you get a chance https://www.lsxmag.com/features/car-...983-volvo-240/ Here are a few of the photos that Nicole shot of the car. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() I honestly never thought this thing would get this kind of love from people but its pretty awesome. Last summer was simply outstanding for how many events we went to and all the amazing people we met. Looking forward to the new setup being even better this year. Sean |
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#762 |
Board Member
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Granville, MA
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![]() nice lighting on the interior shots
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#763 |
Board Member
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Vancouver WA
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![]() Dream car status...
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#764 |
Keep it clean...
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Spokane, WA
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![]() ^Seriously...
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Derek 1 Owner - 85k mile 1980 242 Recaro LX Bs - 16" ARE 398s - 25/25 Sway Bars - Bilstein HDs - SuperPro Poly/STS Derlin Bushings - MSD - R Sport Wheel -Project Thread- Follow on IG: @vol242vo |
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#765 |
Board Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Portland Or.
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![]() Had a little motivation from who knows what to work on this thing. But first I had @spooneyluv on IG draw this up for me. Super impressed with his work and this will be getting made into some shirts and hats very soon along with my ninteen78 logo.
![]() Been tinkering with the old girl, got the wiring up front buttoned up, front tray all bolted on, filled it with fluids and started it up. Had a few little issues, one coolant leak and one oil leak. Got those ironed out and worked on the tune with my boy Michael from the Motor City. Video is terrible but you get the idea. Time to work on a few other bugs and get the frotn sway bar project started, some more camber up front and get some road testing. Still needs fresh tires and the rearend looked at before March.
https://i.imgur.com/GLLxAyU.mp4 Would love to get it out of the garage and clean things up, both the car and the garage. Getting a little motivated hearing it running again, forgot how rowdy this thing is. Sean |
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#766 |
I do my own stunts
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: LaSalle ON
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![]() Love the seats! Do they come in blue ;)?
__________________
1983 242 Turbo w Tremec T5 152,000 km's B230FT LH2.4 2019 VW Golf R w 6 Speed w 1320 kms NEW DD @smoothdurban on IG |
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#767 |
Board Member
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Granville, MA
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![]() whew, that blue LCD display had me squinting in a brightly lit office. I'm guessing it's either not retina-burning in person or you can dial the brightness way down?
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#768 | |
Board Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Portland Or.
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![]() They can come in any color you want......as long as you find the seats and take them to an upholstery shop the sky is the limit
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Sean |
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#769 |
Keep it clean...
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Spokane, WA
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![]() Is there audio to your video? Could just be my phone, I want to hear this thing idling. Looks gorgeous as usual.
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#770 |
Board Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Portland Or.
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![]() Well, been pretty tied up with other stuff lately and to be honest its been a great break from a solid almost 2 years on this thing. Built a pretty snazzy lifted t56 swapped 940, bought a new daily, sold the old one.
Been tinkering on this but not a ton of progress really. I had nothing but issues getting these parts, from Summit saying it was 2 days out to being almost 2 months before I finally received it to the Setrab order on Amazon getting lost, then the package getting lost. Finally had everything in hand. Wasnt cheap but bad ass parts. SETRAB oil cooler, Russel -10 an fittings, Russel braided stainless -10 hoses, Earl's Thermostatically controlled Oil Cooler fitting from oil pan. Install went well, I trimmed the backside of the front apron to get as much airflow as possible through the cooler. ![]() ![]() I ran the stainless hoses as I am worried about heat and abrasion on oil lines. It just makes me nervous to run something that is just rubber and cloth or PTFE or something so not really the look I love but should be strung and durable. ![]() The only snafu.... ![]() I had my drill stop move and hit the supercharger heat exchanger and put a mother f ing hole in it. Not pretty but local rad shop repaired it and you will never ever see it. Pressure tested to 20 lbs again never will get close to that. ![]() I have switched over to AMSOIL on just about everything and now this. I had great luck with Mobile1 the last year but there is a few benefits to the Amsoil stuff and it made huge differences in trans shifting in both the JK and the 940. One of the biggest good side effects of the oil cooler is the extra oil capacity, I added in an extra 2 quarts between the cooler and the lines. Full 7.5 quarts to full now. Super happy about that. Amsoil 5w30 signature series full synthetic going in ![]() So far no leaks, need to get it up to operating temps and check it all out but going to work on building some extended front control arms to help with gaining some camber before I drop it back on the ground. Next round is more camber, bigger front sway bar and new tires and should be about good to go for another round of beating the snot out of it. ![]() Happy Friday all!! |
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#771 | |
Board Member
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Granville, MA
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my opinion, worth price charged. |
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#772 |
dude
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Where have all the quad squares gone? VV,Ca
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![]() Gaaah hole in cooler. I bet some expletives were used.
Amsoil is good stuff. Try the joe gibbs stuff at all? |
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#773 | ||
Board Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Portland Or.
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![]() Quote:
In this particular situation, I have 2 large lines that run off of the adapter and pretty close to the exhaust manifold, then right next to the steering, through the core support. I felt like the stainless outside was far superior to abrasion than the other offerings. I understand its doing zero for thermal protection of the fluid inside. I do believe that thermal resistance on the outside of commercially available -10 hoses its the best (Touching a header and not burning through and rupturing a line) Quote:
Have not tried the Gibbs stuff, but I have heard great things about it. I am an Amsoil dealer so the costs are manageable, the Gibbs stuff is 50% more. Sean |
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#775 | |
Board Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Portland Or.
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![]() Quote:
![]() Managed a little bit of time to work on the car this weekend. All of my friends in the south area already racing so I figured its time to get a move on. With most of the engine work buttoned up I turned to the other part of the winter upgrades. I am burning up the outside of front tires, the front of the car has way too much body roll and not enough negative camber to keep the car planted in the turns. I am maxed out on the Kaplenkhe camber plates and am at 2.5 degrees. So the plan is to extend the lower control arm out and gain some camber that way, then fine tune with the camber plates up top. Is going to cause me more tire clearance issues but Ill deal with that. I know that Sellholm sells a lower control arm for the 240's but ordering parts from them is difficult at best and the KL Racing ones widen it too much and add way too much caster. So I decided I was going to chop up a set of stock ones and add in .75" and patch them back together. I used some .75" x1/8" strap so I knew that I was going out exactly square and .75" Bent up to match the shape of the control arm, chop grind and tack together. ![]() With the basic concept working out how I had imagined, I went ahead and buttoned it up. Added a bunch of reinforcement to make sure that the arm was solid and had no fears of it failing at the extension. ![]() ![]() Not pictured is the Yoshifab boxing plates for the underside. I wish that they were thicker metal, they are thin gauge sheetmetal, I was thinking 1/8" would have netted a stiffer arm. All in all the one turned out good. I ran out of Argon so the other side waits. With that one buttoned up I turned to a few other things that needed attention under the car. I have been running a 25mm drop bar up front. I somehow managed to acquire a 28mm non drop bar from the twins some time ago. Our fear was that it would hit the oil pan so they had some 1/4" shims lazer cut to drop it down. I only needed 1 per side and the 28mm bar was a bolt in deal. I was pretty surprised to see how much beefier the 28mm bar was than the 25. I have a feeling this is going to be a much needed improvement from the 25mm drop bar. Unfortunately no pics... Its a sway bar, but bigger =) Onto the last round of my cooling upgrades. Many people have mentioned that the factory front air dam is supposed to have a little plastic diffuser that directs air up from the lower air dam up to the radiator. With so much being different on this car and speeds of well over 150 mph I figured that something of more substance would likely need to be built. I had some 1/2" thick UHMW left over from my buggy from a few years back and love working with it. So I had the wife help with a template, some jigg saw action to cut it out then routered all of the edges for a nice finished look. Then it got bolted into the same place the splash tray goes and tucks in behind the front lip. It will get bolted in the front to make sure that it stays planted at high speeds. Pretty happy with how it turned out and hope that all of this work to keep things cool has a positive effect this summer. ![]() ![]() I am hoping I can get the other arm buttoned up in the next few days and get them off to powdercoat. I still need to get the rearend looked at, get new tires mounted up and get a proper alignment on it before its ready for another summer of beating on it but feel I have done a pretty good number of changes in the off season, hoping for some good results to come of it and a little faster this year. Sean |
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