Boosted on a budget

[bionicbanana]

So this is the guy with the car that invades my explore page on IG...


Just kidding, love this thing man can't believe it took me this long to see this thread

[MrBrown]

Originally Posted by bionicbanana

So this is the guy with the car that invades my explore page on IG...


Just kidding, love this thing man can't believe it took me this long to see this thread

Lol. I quit using #’s because I received some hate messages about how people are tired of seeing it. Oh well.

[MrBrown]

New wheels on the way.
Custom built

[Vol242vo]

Interesting...ETA on them and any sneak peeks?

[MrBrown]

Originally Posted by Vol242vo

Interesting...ETA on them and any sneak peeks?

ETA: tryna save up some funds to finish them. Quite costly
Sneak peeks: hmm... 17x 9.5 et10 that’s it for now

Hopefully I can sell some stuff and get the money to have the machining done.

[MrBrown]

Its sad to visit this thread. However, I have been getting a lot of questions about the shortened engine cross member so I figured I would share with everyone on how I mutilated, ruined, and jeopardized the safety of the car..

First I welded a straight round bar across in order to keep some type of precise measurement. Then I measured down and made the cut:


Then I leveled it out and welded some steel plate:




Then I placed the bar with the stock part that was removed on top of the welded plate and made marks for the bolts. I drilled and welded a nut to the bottom side and then painted it with some $100 spray paint:





After that, I loosened the steering column U-joint bolts to allow any adjustments that raising the engine higher made:




And that was it. No problems. Steers great and allowed me to lay out the frame and also aided in not hitting the oil pan on anything while driving lowered.

[MrBrown]

I like this before ruined and after ruined picture :

[MrBrown]

Another update. I was hit by a semi truck December 5th and it was about 2 weeks after when I heard some really bad noises in the engine compartment. I found the AMM dangling off and noticed oil in the inlet to turbo, so I started to remove everything. I emptied about 1 quart of oil out of the intercooler. I couldn't turn the turbine by my fingers at all. Further investigating lead me to a pinched hose from the Catch Can. My assumption is that the hose was pinched so the crank case pressures did not allow the oil drain to actually drain the oil from the turbo. Chain reaction; turbo locked up.

After all the clean up, I pulled the Amazon turbo manifold off of the shelf (I have had it for some time and a friend Daniel Saleniuc flipped the flange and added an external wastegate mount) and installed it. I ended up buying a cheaper turbo from Amazon based off of some research and reviews. This will do just fine until I get the Holset rebuilt with the T51R mod.

Here it is mounted:



I ended up sanding all the casting divots and molding lines out and polished it. I am going to be gold candy powder coating it shortly. I have been powder coating everything. its way easier then painting and its tough as ****!





I enjoy polishing, but polishing a turbo is a chore. I will never do this again.

[MrBrown]

And since I am stuck at home on lockdown, why not share with you all what I have been up to...

I am sure you all know Taras, aka 5x108 Heavy Weight, aka Swedish Metal... Super cool dude and contributor to the Volvo community. Well I have been working with him lately and refurbishing some wheels. Check him out if you're ever looking for a great deal and some clean wheels. They are all 5x108 too which is great.

I built a wheel spinning machine a while back and started back up polishing wheels again:
























Ok, im done posting random **** for the day. Hope you are all staying safe and trying to enjoy life as much as possible. Cheers!

[Vol242vo]

Those all look great! Love the polished turbo too! Are any of those the new wheels you’re going to run?

[LC4CARL]

Nice!

[Vol242vo]

Also. I’d love the details on your wheel spinning machine for polishing!

[MrBrown]

I’m still waiting on money to machine the registers and redrill to 5x108. Once that’s done I’ll be able to chrome them and put them together. Hopefully soon. But none of these wheels are what I will be running.

The machine is just a motor and stepped pulley that spins the wheel on a hub. I can upload some pix for you.

[MrBrown]

Picked up a new radiator. I was wanting do get one of those cool shrouds for it but I had this idea to try and make one with an old road sign I have had for some time. I use a GhettoFab homemade metal brake but it ended up snapping the metal at the bends... Not sure why. I ended up picking up some metal U channels from the local hardware store and screwing it to it. Not the best but it will do for now. I sanded the sign with the only grit I had left which was 320 and then polished it to the best of my ability. Its definitely not show quality but one day I will redo it with the correct sanding stages. So here it is:













Im not too thrilled with it but like I said, it will do for now.

[SquareD]

If TB did Masterclasses... you'd teach one for sure. Nice execution.

Nice wheel hoard too.

[MrBrown]

When I installed the tubular exhaust manifold, I wasnt too happy with how close the alternator was to the manifold. The heat will probably reduce the life of it so I decided to move it to the driver side (USA). I also wanted to get a better alternator. I ended up buying a new one that is 280amps. I figured this would do great for the air suspension compressors and E-Fan etc. The problem I was faced is that it doesnt fit the stock 240 brackets.. Any of them. Well I got out a sheet of steel and made some templates from cardboard and ended up with a Ghetto bracket. After test fitting, I welded it up and powder coated it. Picked up some new belts and it is exactly what I wanted. Check it out:

[Wilford Brimley]

Dude I saw this at Leavenworth yea?

[Wilford Brimley]

Also having a quality gun does matter.
I use this


To do this



Atomization of pearl and metallic is important and cheap guns suck at it. Your car looks great my man

[LC4CARL]

Originally Posted by Wilford Brimley

Dude I saw this at Leavenworth yea?

Leavenworth chicks dig GhettoFab...

[Wilford Brimley]

I knew it! I about bought shook the old lady to death telling her to look at this car when he drove by. Fyi I may or may not have reeeallly good pix of this car I took with my cannon rebel t7i...I'll check

[MrBrown]

It was a fun show for sure. Even though the wagon isn’t German I still represented.

[MrBrown]

I have a second hand MS2V3.0 ECU and I built a new harness for it. Only took me a couple years... Being the MS is second hand, I really have no idea what the individual had it configured for. I was told it was used on a 740. Chris Dodson has been helping me and pretty much went through the ECU and set up some things I wanted (Individual COP outputs etc.). While going over everything one last time and trying to understand how all this **** works, I started questioning certain things that were wired in the box.

Thoughts from the experts on the following:
1. Looks like the board is configured for Coil Negative Ignition. However, I have the DB37 wired up for using the stock VR 60-2 CPS which is what I am wanting....
Why do I feel its Coil Negative? :
a. The board has TSEL jumped to OPTOOUT and the TACHSELECT jumped to OPTOIN.
b. XG2 is jumped to XG1.
However, Coil Negative states D1, D2, and C30 should be fitted. D1 and D2 are both just jumped between both of their leg holes and C30 is just plain empty...

2. If I am right and that is wired as Coil Negative, what do I need to do to change this to work with the stock CPS as VR?
a. Manual says TSEL to VROUT and TACHSELECT to VRIN
b. Manual shows diodes in D1 and D2... do I need them? remember mine is just jumped with a wire...

3. What does Pin 36 *IGN OUTPUT get wired to? I cant seem to find out this information. I have a brown wire just waiting here for somewhere to go...
a. Chris wired up Spark outputs using the resistor method in the Proto area to run COP LS2 coils. I think this may answer the pin 36 question but I am unsure..
b. Does it get wired into the stock tachometer somewhere? if yes, which wire?
c. If b.is no, What operates the tachometer reading?

4. Do I need a resistor inline with the CPS wiring? I have read people were having cut out issues and start up issues without one...


Any help you guys can provide me will be greatlyt appreciated as I have no car until this is finished...

[cwdodson88]

Originally Posted by MrBrown

I have a second hand MS2V3.0 ECU and I built a new harness for it. Only took me a couple years... Being the MS is second hand, I really have no idea what the individual had it configured for. I was told it was used on a 740. Chris Dodson has been helping me and pretty much went through the ECU and set up some things I wanted (Individual COP outputs etc.). While going over everything one last time and trying to understand how all this **** works, I started questioning certain things that were wired in the box.

Thoughts from the experts on the following:
1. Looks like the board is configured for Coil Negative Ignition. However, I have the DB37 wired up for using the stock VR 60-2 CPS which is what I am wanting....
Why do I feel its Coil Negative? :
a. The board has TSEL jumped to OPTOOUT and the TACHSELECT jumped to OPTOIN.
b. XG2 is jumped to XG1.
However, Coil Negative states D1, D2, and C30 should be fitted. D1 and D2 are both just jumped between both of their leg holes and C30 is just plain empty...

2. If I am right and that is wired as Coil Negative, what do I need to do to change this to work with the stock CPS as VR?
a. Manual says TSEL to VROUT and TACHSELECT to VRIN
b. Manual shows diodes in D1 and D2... do I need them? remember mine is just jumped with a wire...

3. What does Pin 36 *IGN OUTPUT get wired to? I cant seem to find out this information. I have a brown wire just waiting here for somewhere to go...
a. Chris wired up Spark outputs using the resistor method in the Proto area to run COP LS2 coils. I think this may answer the pin 36 question but I am unsure..
b. Does it get wired into the stock tachometer somewhere? if yes, which wire?
c. If b.is no, What operates the tachometer reading?

4. Do I need a resistor inline with the CPS wiring? I have read people were having cut out issues and start up issues without one...


Any help you guys can provide me will be greatlyt appreciated as I have no car until this is finished...

Sorry I was vague and unresponsive this weekend. Had a lot on my plate and not a lot of time to get it accomplished.

I really wish you didnt lose that wiring diagram... from my notes Pin 36 is to drive your tach. It goes to whatever wire from your tach that would have been on the coil- of your stock install.

It looks like I set it up for a hall sensor. that would explain the opto isolated input rather than the on board VR conditioner input for crank sensor. My bad, for some reason I must have thought you were going to go with new hall sensor rather than the VR stuff.

Manual states nothing about D1/D2 for VR installs. XG 1 and XG2 are not used either.


Here is the tach (crank signal input) schematic for the VR and opto circuits. Follow the schematic an make sure that the hardware is fitted for the lower diagram (VR).

The coil drivers should go out to 4 wires or a db15, I didnt have that in my notes. one for each coil. they are just the triggers, so you will need to route 12v, gnd to your coils also. This will need to stay configured in the software in Tuner Studio as WASTED COP, as you do not have any cam signal.

[LC4CARL]

IG quote of the day: “I love this car but it’s too low.”

[MrBrown]

Lol