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Hackster's LSA / T56 2 door

I'd get a charcoal canister and rollover valve setup from a later car. I think 80-81 just use a single vent from a check valve at the filler neck to the intake. Those kinda suck.
 
I have a horribly stinky fuel system as well. It sucks. Solid pinion shim is a must in these. Mine has been smashed for a long time and it's annoying but I have been lazy. Swapping from 3.73s to 3.27s so it will get addressed then. You driving it to Davis?
 
I have a horribly stinky fuel system as well. It sucks. Solid pinion shim is a must in these. Mine has been smashed for a long time and it's annoying but I have been lazy. Swapping from 3.73s to 3.27s so it will get addressed then. You driving it to Davis?

Good feedback. No not driving it to Davis, I am continuing onto Vegas for LS Fest West after Davis and a 3,000 mile trip in this doesnt sound like fun at all. We did the solid pinion spacer, new bearings throughout as well. Dan also shimmed the axles so there is zero axle play in out with the c clip so hopefully pad knockback is a non issue. He is the best gear guy I have ever run across and totally reasonable.

Axle is back home and hung under the car. Not bad for 24 hours. Had a ****ty day yesterday and ****ed up a brake line fitting so going to try and round that up this afternoon if possible.

All in all glad I pulled the axle, I found a brake line had gotten crushed between the exhaust and the axle so that got redone and some of my hardware was too short not engaging in the lock nut. I got some longer hardware and reassembled everything with a few drops of lock tight.

Should be able to get the **** box back on the road tonight barring I can get gear oil in it and bleed the brakes.

Good fun!!!
 
Very little motivation to work on this thing last night after work knowing I had to get up and hit the road this morning for 2 days of travel across the state for work.

Managed to get a local portland shop to make me a new brake line (rediculously expensive compared to Eugene price) but its done.



As you can see the only difference is the color of the hose, probably only something I will ever see so it is what it is.

Eaton recommends just regular old GL5 non synthetic gear oil for these Trutrac's so 3 quarts of GL5 went in before I raised it up in place and hooked up the shocks and track bar.



All back together. Only thing left to do is to bleed the brakes and get it on the ground again.

All in all I am glad I did it. I replaced some hardware that was just a tad bit too short, I went through and properly torqued everything this go around and added locktite to fasteners that needed it.



I want to get the exhaust done. I ordered a Borla Xr-1 muffler for the back of the car but am concerned that its not going to be large enough to do anything. I kind of want like a huge truck muffler back there to make it really quiet but cannot find anything that would be right.

Sean
 
Let me know if you want those rear-quarter windows with the chrome trim on the bottom.

They've been sitting in my garage, so I can check their condition later today if you'd like.
 
I did a nice big magnaflow muffler in back and nothing else. It had a bit of drone but isnt loud unless you step on it. Im quite happy with it and sounds bonkers when you free rev it.
 
Wonder if an OEM-style F-body muffler (single 3" in, duals out) would work for you? Mine had Flowmaster's version of that on it at one time. Fit just fine transversely in the back. I'm running big OEM mufflers on mine in the back, but I'm duals all the way back, so that won't work with what you have now.
 
Wonder if an OEM-style F-body muffler (single 3" in, duals out) would work for you? Mine had Flowmaster's version of that on it at one time. Fit just fine transversely in the back. I'm running big OEM mufflers on mine in the back, but I'm duals all the way back, so that won't work with what you have now.

When the corvette rear end goes in i'll be going to dual 2.5" with some cats. Im getting tired of the smell. Hoping to quiet the thing down a little than now.
 
I’ve got oem 5.0L Coyote mufflers on mine...some fab required but easy for you. Quiet, no drone. They manage 420-440 HP with little loss.
 
Luckily my parts all showed up last week so I was able to get home after traveling last week and get to it Friday night!!!

Chopped off the tailpipe next to the fuel tank and got to installing some more Vibrant U bends, V bands and the Borla Muffler.

It made a world of difference in volume and tone, there is no more drone and the car is plenty quiet. Sounds good at idle, quiet on the freeway.

I am just learning to TIG and dont have a purge setup yet. Will in the next week though.



Got the brakes bled and rolled the rear fenders a little more for some reason the rear axle creeped forward a little bit so I extended the lower control arms to push it back by .125".

Then I drove it, I put fuel in it and drove it. I drove it to Wilsonville for Cars and Coffee and back home, tweaked the rear a bit, checked the fluids, retorqued the wheels and checked things, ran some errands in it, drove out by the air port for a car meet with the stance kids to check things out. Went over it again to check for things to be tight and normal. I adjusted the shifter to better fit seating position and its dialed now.

Then I took it out and actually "drove the car" its good, torque is really good, pulls to limiter. I have a little bit of a soft pedal, think I am going to go through and rebleed the entire system this week and make sure I dont have any remaining air in there. The brakes work great, but pedal has a little more travel than it had before pulling and swapping the rearend.

This is up near Skyline and Germantown, there are some amazing country roads up there and the car was a blast. Letting it cool down a bit and checking the brakes.



Ran through an entire tank of fuel this weekend, probably have a few hundred miles on it and its getting better the more it gets driven and I get the little bugs worked out. I dig all the small details and getting it dialed in just right.

3 weeks till I leave for Davis and LS Fest weather is turning to crap here so probably not much more testing till then.

Managed to get lots of honey do's done this weekend, cars all cleaned and detailed, changed the oil on the JK, replaced some lights around the house and did some much needed furnace maintenance.

This is how sick of a person I am. This was for Cleaning and then swapped some wheels and tires around. I love clean.....clean, clean, clean.

 
what borla muffler is that?

Borla XR-1

Clean only works.....every time.

Oh man you and I have a lot in common =)

Well, some tinkering last night found my first major snafu in my build so far.

In messing with my brake bias and trying to figure out why the car felt like it was must missing a few calipers I adjusted the proportioning valve and the stopping got worse and I got a pull to the passenger side, like rip the wheel out of your hands pull.

So chatting with volvo buddy Asher he pointed out that I have it all wrong. So some testing of his theory by adjusting the proportioning valve out to add in "rear" brakes gained back all of the stopping power and pedal feel and took the pull away from the passenger side and gave me a little pull to the drivers side.

When I built the plumbing for the brakes I did everything as others have, with the exception of the proportioning valve, but in my head it worked.......Obviously I didnt think too deep on this.

Volvo has a cross plumbed braking system in an effort to be the safest car on the road, they have a network of plumbing that essentially has 4 front brake lines and individual rear brake lines right and left. The master cylinder has 2 lines, but really not a front and rear, its really a dual bowl system. the idea is that if one of the systems were to completley fail you would only lose one of the rear wheels braking 100%.

So in effect my plumbing and proportioning valve is modulating one front and one rear caliper :-P

So I either ditch the prop valve and put a straight piece of pipe in there or I re plumb the entire brake system and start over.

I will say that with the prop valve fully open the car has amazing brakes!!! Cannot wait to get some real pads in there.

But here is my derp moment....always learning something new right?

Sean
 
So I either ditch the prop valve and put a straight piece of pipe in there or I re plumb the entire brake system and start over.

Seems like you could leave the existing prop valve wide open (or eliminate it - reuse at the rear); and then merge the two rear lines into one - into a prop valve at the back - then split the output of this new rear prop valve to the two rear calipers. That should allow you to reduce pressure to just the rear brakes. Maybe that's what you meant by "replumb"....
 
waiting for "my brakes squeal like a mother" comment

Zero squeal so far and I have not been gentle on the brakes. My old R Brakes did though.

Seems like you could leave the existing prop valve wide open (or eliminate it - reuse at the rear); and then merge the two rear lines into one - into a prop valve at the back - then split the output of this new rear prop valve to the two rear calipers. That should allow you to reduce pressure to just the rear brakes. Maybe that's what you meant by "replumb"....

I wanted a clean start and easily adjusted rear bias.

So I picked up some t's and plugs with the original intention was the Barton idea of using the factory block slider for the rears.

I eliminated the factory front slider and installed 2 10mm T's in their location, a little bending of the lines netted me an ok installation. I fabricated a small bracket to hold it all nicely together and keep the lines from rubbing on anything. All in all happy, you really cannot see anything from above. and its somewhat clean from below.

I eliminated the cross piping volvo B.S. The front output from the master controls the front 2 calipers, the rear output from the master controls the 2 rear calipers.

In effect this is now a normal brake system.

I then removed the factory proportioning valves and where I was going to put a bunch of plugs in the old block and install it, it just seemed way cleaner to install 2 10mmx1.0 unions. Amazingly I had 2 in my parts bin and tossed them in.

Backed out the rear prop valve and bled the brakes. They bled fast this time around and pedal feel was better than before and stiff.

It was still Dry before the monsoon came in so I gave it a quick spin around the neighborhood......WE HAVE BRAKES!!!! Like real brakes. Car stops hard and fast and now stops dead straight unlike before. I now have the ability to modulate just the rear brakes.

So moving on. I got the Racepak VNet oil pressure sender installed last week and was waiting on the new cable. It showed up Friday so I got that installed and chatted with them on the phone to get it working. A little programming and its good to go. I will say their tech support is far less than stellar. It was my 3rd call in to them and the first time we have resolved an issue. I still have no working VSS and speedo.

One of the other issues I stumbled onto was I omitted a vent from the fuel system when I hooked everything up and the car and trunk stunk like fuel.

I did a little digging around on the old interweb and found some useful info on the factory five forum. Guys were able to easily build a charcoal canister on their vent line and eliminate any smells.

Off to the pet store and home depot and we had this tidy little setup.

<a href="http://s1133.photobucket.com/user/hackster1/media/The%20Beige%20LSA%20242/20190407_170256_zpslkivtilp.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="https://oi1133.photobucket.com/albums/m588/hackster1/The%20Beige%20LSA%20242/20190407_170256_zpslkivtilp.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo 20190407_170256_zpslkivtilp.jpg"/></a>

<a href="http://s1133.photobucket.com/user/hackster1/media/The%20Beige%20LSA%20242/20190407_170516_zpsoun5a7ei.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="https://oi1133.photobucket.com/albums/m588/hackster1/The%20Beige%20LSA%20242/20190407_170516_zpsoun5a7ei.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo 20190407_170516_zpsoun5a7ei.jpg"/></a>

<a href="http://s1133.photobucket.com/user/hackster1/media/The%20Beige%20LSA%20242/20190407_170603_zpshrfrymi1.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="https://oi1133.photobucket.com/albums/m588/hackster1/The%20Beige%20LSA%20242/20190407_170603_zpshrfrymi1.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo 20190407_170603_zpshrfrymi1.jpg"/></a>

<a href="http://s1133.photobucket.com/user/hackster1/media/The%20Beige%20LSA%20242/20190407_172150_zpsnuxeccxl.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="https://oi1133.photobucket.com/albums/m588/hackster1/The%20Beige%20LSA%20242/20190407_172150_zpsnuxeccxl.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo 20190407_172150_zpsnuxeccxl.jpg"/></a>


This is all hooked into an anti rollover valve installed inside the factory fuel filler door. I was trying to get it higher than the filer neck and this was the only location I could make that happen. I hope that it works better and eliminates any smells.

<a href="http://s1133.photobucket.com/user/hackster1/media/The%20Beige%20LSA%20242/20190407_172155_zpswscg77qk.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="https://oi1133.photobucket.com/albums/m588/hackster1/The%20Beige%20LSA%20242/20190407_172155_zpswscg77qk.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo 20190407_172155_zpswscg77qk.jpg"/></a>

I also got the factory cover panels to fit over my new charcoal canister, got the other butcheek cover built from MDF and got the rear carpet fit.

<a href="http://s1133.photobucket.com/user/hackster1/media/The%20Beige%20LSA%20242/20190407_194214_zps5chb2ved.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="https://oi1133.photobucket.com/albums/m588/hackster1/The%20Beige%20LSA%20242/20190407_194214_zps5chb2ved.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo 20190407_194214_zps5chb2ved.jpg"/></a>

Not done in the trunk, It is going to get all trimmed out with a nice stereo in there but running out of time for Davis and LS Fest.

Hope to get some seatbelts ironed out in the next few days, door panels to upholstery shop and rear carpets all bound around the edge next week.

I leave for Davis in 18 days, 10 of them I will be out of town.

Sean
 
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Came into this thread excited to see a beige 83 242 getting LS swapped, because it would be great inspiration for my beige 83 242!

...And now I feel inadequate. Great thread, beautiful car. Hope I can see it someday, I'm just down the columbia river gorge in SE Washington
 
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