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Move AC from a '93 to a '90

FyoDisco

New member
Joined
Nov 14, 2020
Location
Sweden
Move AC from a '93 to a '90 - Volvo 240

Hey guys! I'm new to this forum. I'm about to move a complete AC-system from my 1993 car to my 1990 car without AC. I've never done this before and since 240's with AC is much more common in the US than in Sweden I thought I might ask for your help. I've read a few threads on the subject but I still have some questions.

The car I'm taking the AC-system from is a '93 as I've mentioned. Therefore it's already made for R134 , which is good I believe. Or do you recommend another cooling gas?

I am going to reuse everything except for the accumulator and the condenser. Is there something else aswell I should buy brand new? All the o-rings will be replaced of course.

Will there be any problems when installing the AC-system to my '90? I've looked a little bit under the hood and as far as I've noticed I need to drill a few holes for the condenser, the hoses/lines and for the attachment of the accumulator. Is there something else that can cause me troubles?

I've understood that the 93 system is different from the 91-92 system, and that the big difference is the threads on the couplings. During my search for parts it seems more difficult to find parts for the 93-system. According to the GCP catalogue I'm supposed to have the accumulator with part number 3537542, but it's not in stock at Volvo/GCP. On the other hand, there is a accumulator with part number 9131972 in stock and it's supposed to be for a '93 system. Do you know if there is a difference between these two?

The white wagon is the 1993 and the red wagon is the 1990, the one who is getting the AC.

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This is what it looks like under the hood on the 1993.

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Try these threads (there's another one somewhere about the 93 vs earlier accessory bracket and V versus Straight compressor connections).
http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=330298
http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=343672
http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=356477

Does your 90 have the full heater box and evaporator, or are you planning on swapping heater boxes? You'll want a new orifice tube - they're cheap.

If your 93 hoses aren't in good shape, you may be better off having new hoses built. If you need to have hoses built, there are more choices for parts and replacement compressors (not limited to the 93-only)
 
Hey guys! I'm new to this forum. I'm about to move a complete AC-system from my 1993 car to my 1990 car without AC. I've never done this before and since 240's with AC is much more common in the US than in Sweden I thought I might ask for your help. I've read a few threads on the subject but I still have some questions.

Over the summer I finished doing the same retrofit of a 1993 AC system into my 1975 242. This started in 2019 with interior parts I harvested from a rusted & worn out 1993 wagon I picked up for cheap. The vent/heater core/evaporator/blower motor/etc. unit from the dash as well as the passenger side firewall panel which is needed for the AC pipes. Another aspect of the 1993 panel design is there is also an additional hole for the ABS wiring pass-through. Its hard to tell from your picture if you have that on your 1993. The intent was to also pull the everything from the engine compartment of the donor, but I was unable to loosen any of the AC lines due to corrosion and didn't want to break any of them so waited for another donor to show up.

Pictures of the interior work: https://www.flickr.com/photos/68144590@N00/albums/72157711094280958

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In May 2020 a 1993 Classic appeared at a San Jose junkyard and from carcass I was able to pull all of the pieces needed for the engine bay. A couple weeks later everything had been installed, vacuumed out the system and then refilled it with R134a. It worked out quite well. What also helped is I also have have a 1993 245 which was useful as a reference point.

Some main things to consider:

1) Wiring differences: While I have a 1975 242, It has a 1990 B230 and Lh2.4 FI system. For example I did have to splice some of the wires together as the 1990 system has three wires going to the switch on the dryer and the 1993 only has two. This also includes the wiring for the dash switch as well.

Some 1993 battery connectors have separate fuses for the AC and other systems. This is mainly for the electric fan circuit which I have not hooked up in my 1975 yet. The Classic in the junkyard came with the electric fan set up while my 1993 245 does not have one, so not sure what cars those came on.

2) Any AC connection taken apart the O-rings were replaced. There are O-ring kits available.

3) I installed up a new dryer. You may be able to reuse the old one if its a quick transfer between the car. I had to drill out mounting holes in the inner fender wall to mount the 1993 dryer bracket.

4) Replaced the expansion valve, it is cheap and easy to do.

5) Replaced the blower motor from the 1993 donor (it was known to be on its last legs.) Installed a new VDO unit and it turned out to be wired backwards.
See this thread: http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=354676
 
Try these threads (there's another one somewhere about the 93 vs earlier accessory bracket and V versus Straight compressor connections).
http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=330298
http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=343672
http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=356477

Does your 90 have the full heater box and evaporator, or are you planning on swapping heater boxes? You'll want a new orifice tube - they're cheap.

If your 93 hoses aren't in good shape, you may be better off having new hoses built. If you need to have hoses built, there are more choices for parts and replacement compressors (not limited to the 93-only)

I'll take a look at those threads. Thank you!

Yes, I'm planning to swap the heater boxes as well. Do you have the part number for the orifice tube?

Okay, I hope all the hoses are in good condition, but I haven't checked yet. Is it better to have new hoses built or to buy original Volvo hoses?
 
Over the summer I finished doing the same retrofit of a 1993 AC system into my 1975 242. This started in 2019 with interior parts I harvested from a rusted & worn out 1993 wagon I picked up for cheap. The vent/heater core/evaporator/blower motor/etc. unit from the dash as well as the passenger side firewall panel which is needed for the AC pipes. Another aspect of the 1993 panel design is there is also an additional hole for the ABS wiring pass-through. Its hard to tell from your picture if you have that on your 1993. The intent was to also pull the everything from the engine compartment of the donor, but I was unable to loosen any of the AC lines due to corrosion and didn't want to break any of them so waited for another donor to show up.

Thank you for your reply! Great help!

My donor car doesn't have an electric fan so I guess that won't be a problem. Did wiring for the heater box/fan/control panel match or did you have to splice or joint the cables?

Did you buy an o-ring kit from Volvo or was it aftermarket?

I'll replace the dryer/accumulator. This won't be a quick swap and I don't know the condition of the old accumulator. I don't know if the compressor works either. I'll have to check that.

Where is the placement of the expansion valve? Is it on the compressor?
 
Thank you for your reply! Great help!

My donor car doesn't have an electric fan so I guess that won't be a problem. Did wiring for the heater box/fan/control panel match or did you have to splice or joint the cables?

Did you buy an o-ring kit from Volvo or was it aftermarket?

I'll replace the dryer/accumulator. This won't be a quick swap and I don't know the condition of the old accumulator. I don't know if the compressor works either. I'll have to check that.

Where is the placement of the expansion valve? Is it on the compressor?


I picked up an aftermarket o-ring kit, believe it was $10 and I picked it up from Rockauto.com

Made a mistake in my post, I typed expansion valve but meant orifice tube. The OT sits inside one of the metal lines along the front of the frame rail. When I scavenged the parts our of the junkyard this is one of the connectors I opened up. When installing into my car put in a new OT and O-ring and tightened it up. (see attached picture)

As for wiring from from the heater box etc. is the same in the 1990 & 1993. The one thing you need to look at are the green wires going the AC dash switch as in 1990 that was a rheostat set up and the 1993 has a binary on/off switch. I ended up marking the various green wires as I, II, and III to differentiate where they were headed to (compressor, pressure sender, ECU)

In both the dash and in the engine compartment needed to splice some of the green wires to together to use the stock 1990 wiring with the 1993 AC pieces. I had 1990 & 1993 AC wiring diagrams and what took a while for me to figure out the 1993 system did not have a solenoid as depicted in the diagram. Ended up making a color-coded version to help with the wires under the hood and behind the dash. Also, it is not depicted on the wiring diagrams, the two leads on the 1990 dash rheostat switch (blue/yellow & red/gray) are connected to the 1993 snowflake switch.
 

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In the GCP catalogue it says expansion valve, so it's the same as orifice tube. But I think it is more common for it to be refered as orifice tube. Or maybe that's only in the US? I found that the part number is 3545086, but it's not in stock at GCP/Volvo. However there are aftermarket parts available.

Thank you for the wiring diagram and you explanations. It's difficult to visiualize everything now, but I'm certain it will become clear when I start working with the AC system. Just to make it clear, the coloured wiring diagram you posted is for a 1990 AC system?

Another question: do you guys recommend replacing the old condensor even if it looks good? A new one cost about $330 and I'm thinking if I can save some money there. If it breaks down in the future then isn't it just install a new one and fill up the system again with a coolant gas?
 
I think the orifice tubes are a standardized A/C part used by lots of different cars. It's a ~$3 plastic part. There is also a "automatic adjusting" version for more $$$. The orifice tube is used in A/C systems that cycle the compressor on-and-off to regulate the A/C - CCOT for clutch cycling orifice tube. Expansion valves are much more $$$ and regulate the flow in the system differently.
https://www.fcpeuro.com/Volvo-parts/240/?year=1993&m=20&e=914&t=5&b=6&d=34&v=11&keywords=orifice%20tube

I don't know about Sweden, but in the US you can borrow a "A/C Flush Gun" from some of the auto parts stores. This, plus an air compressor and a can of A/C Flush solution, allows you to blow solvent through the condenser and evaporator to clean the gunk out. If the A/C compressor has died, it may have sent metal bits into the system, which are hard or impossible to get out.
 
Okay, now I understand! Thanks! Is it preferred to have an expansion valve or does it make no difference on a Volvo 240? $18 isn't much, even if it's just a small plastic part.

There probably should be anything like that available here in Sweden. I've never worked with an AC system before so everything is new to me. Are you supposed to flush the system when it's still in the old car, before I pick everything apart and move it the the "new" car? Is it needed for the compressor to work for it to be possible to flush the system? I have no idea if the compressor works.
 
In the GCP catalogue it says expansion valve, so it's the same as orifice tube. But I think it is more common for it to be refered as orifice tube. Or maybe that's only in the US? I found that the part number is 3545086, but it's not in stock at GCP/Volvo. However there are aftermarket parts available.

Thank you for the wiring diagram and you explanations. It's difficult to visiualize everything now, but I'm certain it will become clear when I start working with the AC system. Just to make it clear, the coloured wiring diagram you posted is for a 1990 AC system?

Another question: do you guys recommend replacing the old condensor even if it looks good? A new one cost about $330 and I'm thinking if I can save some money there. If it breaks down in the future then isn't it just install a new one and fill up the system again with a coolant gas?

In regards to the orifice tube, this is where I picked mine up at as part of a kit:
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/volvo,1993,240,2.3l+l4,1287097,heat+&+air+conditioning,a/c+accumulator+&+orifice+tube+kit,1001977

Yes, the color wiring diagram is for the 1990 240s. The only real difference between the two diagrams is I removed the solenoid from the color diagram as my 1993 system did not have it. One of the things I did was to use a multimeter/continuity tester to trace the wires through the system. The 1993 diagram included the electric fan and relay.

For the condenser I would use what you have. Once you get the system closed up, the next step is to draw a vacuum for a while then let it sit for 15 minutes to see if anything is leaking. If your condenser is shot then I would say replace it out at that point. Pulling the vacuum is before you have put in any refrigerant so if you do need to replace the condenser it still a fairly straight-forward procedure.

With my 242 I had to drill holes to mount the condenser with the rubber mounts. Not sure if you will need to do that as well. The other item you will need to drill holes to mount is for the dryer as that sits behind the right headlight on the 1990 cars and next to the firewall on the later cars. There are two studs integrated into the inner fender metal on the 1993 240s, I drilled out two holes and used bolts to secure the dryer bracket.

Images:
1) 1993 Wiring Diagram
2) Continuity test for the red/gray wiring going to the ECU
3) Left: 1993 wiring connector, Right: 1990 wiring going to dryer (cut by previous owner) These is the wiring which needed to be spliced/connected together in the engine compartment
4) Holes drilled for the dryer bracket on the inner fender
5) The AC parts picked up off the 1993 Classic in the junkyard.
 

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Thank you for you help, polaris! I've decided to not buy a new condensor. I've ordered a new accumulator and a new orifice tube. Just going to find a o-ring kit here in Sweden.

Yeah I'll have to drill new holes in my car as well. Both for the condensor and the accumulator. Also for the brackets which holds the hoses. I'm not so fond of drilling holes in my car, but you have to do what you have to do.

How can I test if the compressor works? I think the system is empty. Do I have to refill the compressor with new oil when I move it over to my other car?
 
Yes, the color wiring diagram is for the 1990 240s. The only real difference between the two diagrams is I removed the solenoid from the color diagram as my 1993 system did not have it. One of the things I did was to use a multimeter/continuity tester to trace the wires through the system. The 1993 diagram included the electric fan and relay.

I've started with this project now and come to where I'm about to remove the wiring from the ?93 donor car and install it to the new car, the one from 1990. But I'm wondering if the car from 1990 has wirings prepared for AC. You mentioned three green cables going from the AC-reostat to different spots. I don't know if those three green cables exists in my car.
 
I've started with this project now and come to where I'm about to remove the wiring from the ?93 donor car and install it to the new car, the one from 1990. But I'm wondering if the car from 1990 has wirings prepared for AC. You mentioned three green cables going from the AC-reostat to different spots. I don't know if those three green cables exists in my car.

I'm doing this 90 to 93 swap right now and made these wiring diagrams. My 90 AC relay looks just like the diagram.
 

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Polaris/Ben...did your '75 already have a later dash or did you get all the 1993 system to work with the 75-80 style dashboard/pad no-fuss? Just curious.

I initially installed the 1985 dash into the 242 during the 1990 wiring & B230F transplant in May 2016. The main reason for the newer dash set up is I wanted to have the larger instrument cluster with cruise control and the ability to install 52mm gauges. The 1993 AC transplant/retrofit started in May 2019 when I harvested the interior parts from a 1993 245 and put them into the 242. Finally was able to get the AC system up and functional in June 2020 after obtaining all of the engine bay components from a junkyard donor.

The 1985 dash in the 1975 242
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With using the 1985 dash, I had to replace out the some of the vent ducting to fit the later dash set up. It is pretty much the same set up, though with the later HVAC assemblies, the openings for the center vents have different spacing. I needed to use the later center ducting to the center vents as the earlier one would not fit properly. The openings in the later assemblies stick out a bit wider. Here are a couple pictures which show this:

Close up of the 1975 HVAC vents
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Removing the HVAC unit in my 1975 242
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The 1993 HVAC unit (note: housing sides are black plastic)
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One of the changes is the position of the AC drain hose openings through the transmission tunnel. With my 1973 142E there were two drain hoses at each side of the bottom of the housing. On the 1975 242 there was a single drain hose going to a hole in the center of the transmission tunnel. With the newer units the drain hole was moved over to the passenger side of the tunnel, so I needed to swap the drain hose from the '75 HVAC unit onto the '93 one.

Center transmission tunnel drain hole in the 1975 242
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In going with the later set up, the fan selector switch has a different connector. It is just a different form factor, so if you are keeping the early dash you will need transplant the fans wires into the older style connector. The other aspect is when installing the '93 unit, it also has the newer heater valve with the plastic housing I needed to swap the the heater control from the '75 rotary unit to the later slider type. Ended up changing out the entire center panel for the rocker switches, climate controls and stereo/storage bin as it has a different profile. The plastic trim is flatter in the 1973-1980 cars and the upper section is angled outward a bit in the 1981-93 cars for the center storage tray. I am going to switch to an earlier metal heater valve as the current one doesn't shut of all the way. Had pinch the heater hose close during the summer so the AC system wouldn't have to also fight against the heater core.

Newer (1993) connector to the fan switch
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Older rotary heater control
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Newer slider heater control
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1980 models came with cruise/BTDT to retro-fit later cruise whilst keeping the early cluster/speedo or make the LH2.4 speed signal work on the early cars...jeebus good lord that's a lotta doin' tho, thanks for the history/experience/sharing.

I like the early cluster, appearance wise, with the centrally mounted tach (tho they cheaped out & didn't make the gauge needles phosphorescent orange like the -'72 140s had & made them white plastic...late 70s malaise) & nice green backgrounds/it's easy to read and recessed to prevent sun-washout, but the later dash is more practical & allows for the triple pack.
& last of them the flat black cluster & orange needles is really easy to read, but no more nice dim bluey/green strip & expensive silly halogen lights for the 1989+ clusters.

I've never attempted the 1993 conversion on a -'80 car.
I hate those cars / grew up & got burned out repairing & maintaining them recombining used parts as much as possible/diagnosing them correctly with all the variations in trim/struggling to comply emissions equipment variations/vac leak or cramped rusty stuff duct taped on the engine in the busy engine bay for others (not that they're actually that terrible, per se, especially with some later model updates as a personal project/hobby) :lol: and don't have use for a ski-dan or 242, but if I lived in Cali, smog sorta dictates Diesel or 1975 shell, so whaddyagonnado?
Make sure you grab the duct piece to the center vents for the '81+ dash with the heater box if your car is ~86 & earlier!


I like the metal panel on early 200 series cars for the 'Chrysler style' horrible vacuum climate controls buttons we got on the 200 series in the USA.

The plastic valve is hit & miss for longevity.

If the alcohol tube hasn't been busted by some monkey doing a heater fan and seals & seat isn't eroded from acidic coolant in the quality Ranco valve, it works decent when new/near new, tho they become very much on/off long before they ultimately fail and leak on your foot externally or allow hot coolant thru the core as they age.

That said, if you tow with the A/C on in the 240Turbo in 4th gear at 4000+rpm in a hurry, you basically have to drill the grp-a holes in the head and run a bypass type heater control circuit instead of one operated by the T-static restrictor valve as used up to ~1991 in 200 series, or the plastique disc type shut-off/restrictor valve they give you with the alternate firewall junction & hoses for those on the late ~1991+ cars, even if the tropical fan clutch is strong, belts are tensioned/grip well & radiator isn't plugged/a decent 3 row, pusher fan works/comes on with the switch in the radiator end tank set to a conservatively low temp & water pump is like the quality OE brass impeller piece with appropriate coolant/mix & denso or bosch 100A e-fan car alternator is strong & air pickup & belly pan is all in place...
...That said, the restriction stock-type 240 heater valve allows for faster engine warmup/less engine wear if you remember to shut it at every cold startup without block heating the car.
Maybe no big deal in a mostly mild climate like SF, especially more toward the bay, but still ~55 degree ocean temp water moderated minus the salt fog, but worth considering?

90% of engine wear & emissions equip wear in light daily driver use occurs in the first minutes of cold running due to oil starvation, getting up to temp/metallurgical concerns etc, even with proper gentle driving/leanest possible burning light-cruise gently varied RPM warmup.

'73-'74 USA-market 140 models with the ugly dash were a nightmare to replace heater cores in (without cutting them out/hacking & maiming anything of the white devils dust early plastic) with tons of obnoxious 1-year-only parts & the 2 drain hoses, as you say.
I just scrapped all those cars/used them to fix '67-'72 140s with the early dash/more legroom that were actually pleasant to drive. :lol:
I like that side-impact bars in the old style vent-window/detachable window frame doors of the '73 140s & super strong pretty skinny commandos w/practical over-riders & 're-buildable' bumper shocks that they later cheaped out on/bean counters deemed were too expensive to keep making that way & made hideous on the '74 140s, but that's about it.
 
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1980 models came with cruise/BTDT to retro-fit later cruise whilst keeping the early cluster/speedo or make the LH2.4 speed signal work on the early cars...jeebus good lord that's a lotta doin' tho, thanks for the history/experience/sharing.

I like the early cluster, appearance wise, with the centrally mounted tach (tho they cheaped out & didn't make the gauge needles phosphorescent orange like the -'72 140s had & made them white plastic...late 70s malaise) & nice green backgrounds/it's easy to read and recessed to prevent sun-washout, but the later dash is more practical & allows for the triple pack.
& last of them the flat black cluster & orange needles is really easy to read, but no more nice dim bluey/green strip & expensive silly halogen lights for the 1989+ clusters.

Knew there is a CC pickup cavity in the speedometers of the 1980 242GTs and 262s, did not realize that feature was across the whole 1980 line. In my 242 I installed a 1984 Turbo instrument cluster for: 1) 120MPH speedometer 2) 1985 M46 with a speedometer cable 3) Cruise Control pickup for the Lh2.4 speed signal (though it doesn't seem to be working as I still get the high idle after driving for a bit.) Since it is an Lh2.4 in the 242, the Turbo warning light now takes the place of the check engine light.

Agree with you on the aesthetic older dash gauge backgrounds. So much so, I ended up installing the temp and gas gauges from an older cluster with the green, orange, and red scales. They did not exactly drop into place, did have to make a couple minor-ish modifications to get them to fit in properly. The posts going through the circuit board are a different diameter and the gauge faces are a different sized so they need to be adjusted to fit into space in the later instrument clusters. The needles can be swapped so I did replace out the original white ones with the orange type to match the speedo and tach. While I had the cluster all apart, put an an arrow on the gas gauge to indicate the filler side like modern cars have.

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That said, if you tow with the A/C on in the 240Turbo in 4th gear at 4000+rpm in a hurry, you basically have to drill the grp-a holes in the head and run a bypass type heater control circuit instead of one operated by the T-static restrictor valve as used up to ~1991 in 200 series, or the plastique disc type shut-off/restrictor valve they give you with the alternate firewall junction & hoses for those on the late ~1991+ cars, even if the tropical fan clutch is strong, belts are tensioned/grip well & radiator isn't plugged/a decent 3 row, pusher fan works/comes on with the switch in the radiator end tank set to a conservatively low temp & water pump is like the quality OE brass impeller piece with appropriate coolant/mix & denso or bosch 100A e-fan car alternator is strong & air pickup & belly pan is all in place...

The last piece I have yet to install with this conversion is the electric radiator fan and this will be done before the summer arrives. While driving it around SF and even a couple times in the Central Valley, there is no issue operating the AC without the electric fan except once. This past June I drove the 242 on the Motherlode Rally which happened to be the weekend during one of the horrendous, brutal heatwaves. Driving out on Friday afternoon towards Placerville, the temp was hitting 112-115 degrees.and the 242 was running warm. Had a thermometer along and was quite surprised I was seeing 35-36 degrees from the vent. Once getting into the foothills outside of Ione, CA and headed towards Plymouth, CA needed to shut down the AC as the water temp was almost into the orange zone.

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