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Old 09-04-2018, 09:29 PM   #1
moustacio
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Default Strut Rod to Body Bushings

I feel dumb asking but here goes,

88' 745 258K miles

Could bad bushings in the strut rods connecting to the body cause vibrations? I replaced the cone bushings as I've read when bad can cause vibrations. The bushings pressed into their rusty strut rods looked pretty bad as well.

Thanks for any help
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Old 09-04-2018, 10:12 PM   #2
dl242gt
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Yes, you know the answer is yes. The bodyside bushing gets compressed and hard. Eventually they can split. it's just that the cone bushings are the more well known ones because they go bad faster. It's good to check the control arm busing as well. I think poly is good to use on these on the body side bushing. Would firm up your braking feel.
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Old 09-04-2018, 11:04 PM   #3
moustacio
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Thank you dl242gt
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Old 09-05-2018, 04:29 PM   #4
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Brake rotors?
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Old 09-12-2018, 05:24 PM   #5
moustacio
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Thank you lummert I'll keep that in mind. However, I can't feel any vibration in the brake pedal while braking.

Is there any reason against NOT lifting the car while installing the strut rods?

I didn't lift the front end and now I get a weird shudder while turning going very slow. I'm going to lift the front end, loosen all the related bolts, snug everything back up, then drop the car and torque to specification. Maybe I messed up my steering rack while turning the wheel back and forth to get to the bolts?

Any help is appreciated

Last edited by moustacio; 09-12-2018 at 06:17 PM..
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Old 09-12-2018, 05:40 PM   #6
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Most chances all rubber bushings on the car are original. Even if they don't look bad, they're 30 years old. Plan on replacing them. I am going to be replacing the front control arms on my Wife's car with brand new ones to include new poly bushings and ball joints and outer tie rod ends when I replace her front shocks.
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Old 09-12-2018, 07:29 PM   #7
moustacio
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Thank you for the response. The only components after doing the strut rods on the front end that haven't been replaced within the past 6 months are the control arm bushings.

Is it possible that I now have this weird shudder from not lifting the front end to reinstall the strut rods?

Guess I'll find out soon enough anyway but would like to know what y'all think if someone is so kind.

Thanks again everyone
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Old 09-12-2018, 07:57 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by moustacio View Post
Thank you lummert I'll keep that in mind. However, I can't feel any vibration in the brake pedal while braking.

Is there any reason against NOT lifting the car while installing the strut rods?

I didn't lift the front end and now I get a weird shudder while turning going very slow. I'm going to lift the front end, loosen all the related bolts, snug everything back up, then drop the car and torque to specification. Maybe I messed up my steering rack while turning the wheel back and forth to get to the bolts?

Any help is appreciated
Tighten all the bolts with the car on the ground. You could have introduced air into the power steering fluid while turning wheels lock to lock. Also the strut rods are available in different lengths. I think there were shorter strut rods to help with the brake shudder.
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Old 09-13-2018, 01:55 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by moustacio View Post
Is there any reason against NOT lifting the car while installing the strut rods?
Unless you have a pit it's almost impossible to R/R the strut rods without the car on a lift or jack stands. The important part is to leave the rear bolts (strut rod to frame) loose enough so those rear bushings will be in an unstressed neutral state when you do the final torquing on those bolts. Install the strut rods, lower the car to get it set on level ground, bounce the bumper a few times to settle everything out, then tighten the rear bolts.


What were the symptoms before? What are the symptoms now?
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Old 09-13-2018, 03:28 PM   #10
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Thank you lummert, I think you are correct about air getting in as the low speed shudder while turning is now gone.

Thank you tintintin. I was able to remove and install the strut rods with the car on the ground in my parking lot. Just need to turn the wheels out of the way. That's why I was asking if it's alright to install them this way. Didn't think it would be a problem but I'm thinking so now.

Symptoms were an intermittent vibrating/shaking steering wheel and butt and feet at most speeds but I drive mostly highway so that's where I would notice the most. After the strut rods were replaced yesterday the problem seems much worse after driving to work and back.

Other work include motor mounts, complete replacement of all driveshaft components, tires, wheels, etc. I'm sure there's more I've done. Also every front end component except the control arm bushing which seem fine while prying on them.

Thanks guys
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Old 09-13-2018, 03:52 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by moustacio View Post
Symptoms were an intermittent vibrating/shaking steering wheel and butt and feet at most speeds but I drive mostly highway so that's where I would notice the most. After the strut rods were replaced yesterday the problem seems much worse after driving to work and back.
First thing to suspect are tires out of balance/tread separating/poor quality
Wheel(s) bent
Crud between hub/wheel mounting


Have you tried a quick swap wheels F to R?
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Old 09-13-2018, 04:46 PM   #12
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Hello and thank you. Yep, I've been through all of that and have good wheels and good/new tires, front to back rotations, cleaned hub to rotor, new hubs, rotated rotors to different positions with the lock pin, etc.

All this for a car with hail damage and a worn engine. I just won't give up on it, it's my favorite car I've ever owned.
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Old Yesterday, 07:13 PM   #13
moustacio
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Thought I would stop in to say thanks again for the help and give an update.

For "fun" I replaced ball joints and outer tie rods even though I couldn't find any play in them, they had low miles, and both were TRW. That was a big part of my vibrations. Again for fun I put the new strut rods back in and the shaking is almost eliminated.

I've bought the bushings for the control arms in an attempt to once again have a great feeling ride. Quick question: has anyone successfully replaced these in situation with the ball joint press rental tool from the auto parts stores? Looks like a big c-clamp. I unfortunately have to work on the car in a my parking lot and my T-6 is currently not drivable.

Thanks again everybody
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Old Yesterday, 07:49 PM   #14
PhysSDK2
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Ball joint press didn’t work for me on a 940, was too small. I used a fork and had to jump on it to break the ball joint. All be it, this car has 250k miles and it had the OG ball joints. Problem I ran into, I replaced the ball joints and cone bushings, then the control arm stay to body bushing immediately went bad. No vibration just a loud clunk under the driver footwell when I turn at low speed.
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