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Old 09-18-2018, 06:43 PM   #1
15A
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Default 240 Wiper Mess - Green Manual

Is there ANY mention in a green manual as to the "official' procedure to re-assemble one of the most stupid designs in the history of machinery......the 'cabled' 240 wiper assembly? I read Art's write up - saved the pics, etc....I can get them back on but then they grind like the cable is crossed the wrong way or the pop can 'rod' wobbles like its not stable. I'm literally thinking of pulling the dash off one at the yard and zip tying / duct taping the mess in that one in place before removing it to use in the current purgatorial sentence.

My 122 and 1800's setup was a better design than this garbage.
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Old 09-18-2018, 10:50 PM   #2
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yes, that can surely be one of the most swear worthy areas to work on. Make sure the cable follows the groove in the pulley and that it goes around in the right direction. That way it follows the monkey motion of the motor. To tighten the cable. I use a small ratcheting box wrench on the nut while holding the end from turning with a small screwdriver. Make sure it is tight enough that it has no play. Put a long lasting grease like Wurth HHS K all over it.

I haven't ever seen a procedure in a green book. I'll go look when I get a few minutes. Don't have them all but have a few to look through.
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Old 09-18-2018, 11:16 PM   #3
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I got the one piece on that connects the left to the right - from Art's pics the cable end of the adjustment nut is towards the driver/cabin on the loop. Seems to be ok but the grooves looks like a single groove....which that alone I thought was pretty stupid. You can hear the cables rubbing on the left side - I'm not a fan of the lithium grease (new stuff is too thin) so I used Mobil One synthetic grease (thick) and it quieted down alot. I ditched the lock nuts and got 2 regular nuts - you could spin them down with your thumb while holding the whole mess together - then after wrenching it down where you want it, add a second nut to lock against it and a dab of Loctite red on the end. UFB

Course....my access is a tad easier than most at this point in time.

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Old 09-18-2018, 11:31 PM   #4
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Late 140/164 use the same wiper system. The greenbook has a little better description and pictures in the electrical section.

http://www.240.se/litteratur/tp10868.pdf
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Old 09-18-2018, 11:36 PM   #5
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Oh my love that access.
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Old 09-18-2018, 11:52 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hiperfauto View Post
Late 140/164 use the same wiper system. The greenbook has a little better description and pictures in the electrical section.

http://www.240.se/litteratur/tp10868.pdf
Thats the best illustration from the arctic nuthouse yet - thanks very much for the link. Is there supposed to be 2 grooves per cam? I could only see one - would have rather had the cables separated where they cross.

I used a zip tie as a loop/hanger to hold one side while I configured the other - that with using a regular nut to get it tight helped alot. Otherwise, the job is the equivalent of dying and going to Hell in your sleep.

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Oh my love that access.
Ground up resto just out of paint.....a stripped shell - not even brake or fuel lines underneath it. It will never be easier than this.
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Old 09-19-2018, 12:01 AM   #7
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There are two groves on the right side one. One groove for the motor arm and the other groove links the left side arm. The left side has only one groove.
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Old 09-19-2018, 12:06 AM   #8
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One groove on each pulley is lame. The thicker grease helps alot with the rubbing cables.

This is one of those things that if it was a long term deal, I'd machine the grooves a tad deeper. Could snug the end to make up for it and it'd make it much more difficult for the cable to slip off.
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Old 09-19-2018, 12:59 AM   #9
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I see what ya mean. Using a double groove or deeper groove would definitely cause less pain and last longer.
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Old 09-19-2018, 08:37 PM   #10
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I got it figured.....with that kind of 'access' I had the whole mess off and on about 3x in an hour - probably how they did it at assembly. I rebuilt the motor also so jury rigged it to see how it all worked - smooth and incredibly quiet now. If I had to mess with them after its back together, that dash would definitely come out though.

I got a couple pics but its very hard to make sense of it without seeing it in process (video?). Its critical which way you flip the cable - one way its au natural and smooth - the other way can bind and wants to walk off the cam. Cant imagine how many times or how hard they hit their heads to come up with that design though.
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Old 09-19-2018, 08:51 PM   #11
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Quote:
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...Cant imagine how many times or how hard they hit their heads to come up with that design though.
Can you imagine how cheaply that system was mass produced? The engineer likely got a substantial raise.

FWIW, I've done this twice. Once dash out and once dash-in (through the upper center console and the glove box hole). Both times it was trial and error but blood and some swearing accompanied the dash-in repair.

Glad you got it sorted
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Old 09-19-2018, 09:37 PM   #12
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lol......this was obviously all designer (people who draw pictures) - no engineers were involved.

I was talking to a retired Volvo tech about this - said I had no idea why they'd make such a thing.

His response: "Because it was way cheaper to make."
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Old 09-19-2018, 10:00 PM   #13
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DP

Last edited by 15A; 09-19-2018 at 11:38 PM..
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Old 09-20-2018, 04:03 AM   #14
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Did it recently myself on the 242. Cable came loose on the link to the motor. Unfortunately, the sot on the threaded end of the cable was stripped when I tried to tighten it. Grabbed another at the yard and replaced it. Pulled the dash to make it easier.
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Old 09-21-2018, 01:41 PM   #15
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The thing is a complicated cable and pulley setup. Couldn't have been less expensive than a linkage with bushings in the arms. At least in my view. I love that designer comment and no engineers involved.

It truly is the unique to Volvo wiper system that mostly behaves and tortures you when it fails. I wonder how many owners sold or junked their cars because the wipers drove them or their mechanics crazy?

It is a compact system to fit under the dash so kudos to that.

Last edited by dl242gt; 09-21-2018 at 01:43 PM.. Reason: add comment
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Old 09-21-2018, 02:28 PM   #16
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Quote:
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I wonder how many owners sold or junked their cars because the wipers drove them or their mechanics crazy?

All of them.




And it also helps to get right up on it without a windshield in the way....so maybe that has to come out also. lol
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Old 09-21-2018, 07:00 PM   #17
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I have to say the quality of the wiper parts on my early 80s turbos have held up much better than my 93 wagon has. Don't know why. I've had wiper system problems with the 93 twice. My turbo is still original from 1982. I do spray the Wurth HHS K stuff on there about once a year or so. It is the best for tough door latches and the wiper system.
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Old 09-21-2018, 09:27 PM   #18
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OP: this should be of some assistance.

It's for a 164 but I believe the wiper mechanism is the same.

http://cleanflametrap.com/wiper.html
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Old 09-21-2018, 09:37 PM   #19
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I did see Art's site.....printed several pics as a cheat sheet to see how the cables were routed. Once I disassembled everything, wire wheeled it and then got right up on it with my reading glasses and an LED lamp - it all made sense (how the cables went - not the twisted idea behind it).

The trick is in which way the cable is looped when its mounted......but its still a stupid design.

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Old 09-21-2018, 10:42 PM   #20
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It wasn't Thor that designed that system. More like Loki I believe would apply.
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Old 09-21-2018, 11:01 PM   #21
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Quote:
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It wasn't Thor that designed that system. More like Loki I believe would apply.
I agree.

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Old 09-21-2018, 11:51 PM   #22
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lol vintage collectible? Never heard of that one. Awesome.
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Old 09-22-2018, 03:33 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 15A View Post
I did see Art's site.....printed several pics as a cheat sheet to see how the cables were routed. Once I disassembled everything, wire wheeled it and then got right up on it with my reading glasses and an LED lamp - it all made sense (how the cables went - not the twisted idea behind it).

The trick is in which way the cable is looped when its mounted......but its still a stupid design.

It sure looks like you do nice work 15A.

Two weeks ago I had to revisit this "stupid design" in a repair mode. Since the last time I had the dash out, I decided to try dealing with the busted right side drive through the glove box opening.

Crucial to that was being sure I knew which way the cable wrapped, because there was no way I could work to put them on and look at them simultaneously. To attain the magnification I need to see that detail I need lenses that put my head 6 inches from the work.

So I did this entirely by feel; memorize, then work. Need to emphasize the importance of knowing that the cable end (screw and nut side) needs to be looped toward the cabin interior as you pointed out.

The main page on wipers is only intended to be about 240's but I saw for the first time those 140 greenbook pages Ian mentioned reading this thread. Wish that would have happened before working on the '93 two weeks ago. Nothing on my page is as helpful as those for this task. I updated the page with the "through the glovebox" adventure on a '93 a week ago: Notes on 240 Volvo Windscreen Wiper Shaft Repair

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Old 09-22-2018, 09:16 PM   #24
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Thanks Art.

There is 1 groove on the bottom and 2 on the top - didn't even see this till I wired wheeled the crud off of it. When the cables are in their perspective grooves, wound the right way, and greased with something good (I use Mobil One synthetic - it sticks and cushions)....its really smooth. Every one I ever saw vibrated but worked. I wrote it off to the whole cheap setup / slop.

I used a regular nut so I could spin it down with my thumb without letting go of holding it into position. I tightened it til it started to cock the bar, then backed off to the point it sat square on the pulley. Then I added a second nut with a dab of Loctite. I have never had or seen one this smooth once it was all 'right', greased and taut.

But still cant imagine doing it through a hole.
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Old 09-22-2018, 09:32 PM   #25
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...still cant imagine doing it through a hole.


It takes patience. Serious patience.
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