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Fitting Garrett T3 to 90+ Manifold

If your turbine housing has the matching step in it there is no reason to flatten the manifold.

You cant just pull a flat turbine housing up to that raised circle as it will warp the housing when it gets hot.

I've seen the turbine housing and down pipe glow. Like one time when the MAP sensor hose popped off and it went full rich.

I never intended to machine the hotside turbo housing inlet flat and mount it up to the raised lip on the 90. I guess since mine has both lips that fit into one another, there isn't a point in machining anything other than a resurface touch up to make them fit nicely
 
Your T3 hot side is different than mine. Mine T3 was flat and did not have threads.

Yea this is a weird T3. Cant find p/n's or s/n's for it anywhere online which is why I made this thread to help gather answers. Like what oil return and feed lines to use since the 90+ will move the position of the turbo after installation.
 
Yoshi sells a #10 AN adapter that fits the block and APT sells the other end that mounts to the turbo.
A foot of #10 hose and 2 hose ends rounds out the parts list.
I added 2 of the heat resistant jackets for spark plug wires to cover the drain hose to prevent the hose from being cooked.

Or this? https://www.atpturbo.com
 
I never intended to machine the hotside turbo housing inlet flat and mount it up to the raised lip on the 90. I guess since mine has both lips that fit into one another, there isn't a point in machining anything other than a resurface touch up to make them fit nicely

That lip is the seal and keeps the fire away from the outer edge of the flange.
I would not do anything to the surfaces except remove any previous gasket remains.
Maybe lightly stone it to show/knock off any high spots.
Do not use high speed rotary tools to clean these surfaces or you WILL need gaskets.
I do not use any gaskets on good flanges.
 
Yea this is a weird T3. Cant find p/n's or s/n's for it anywhere online which is why I made this thread to help gather answers. Like what oil return and feed lines to use since the 90+ will move the position of the turbo after installation.

Do you have a turbo block? If so, I used this:
https://yoshifab.com/store/turbo-red-block-10-oil-return-conversion-kit.html
and this:
https://yoshifab.com/store/turbo-red-block-10an-oil-return-line-garrett-turbo.html

You can piece the return line together yourself with ebay and Summit Racing AN fittings.
 
As far as milling it flat I had good luck cutting the lip off the manifold with an angle grinder, should save a few bucks

same. Ground the lip off with angle grinder, then used a band sander to lightly touch the surface and provide a pretty much flat surface. Looked good.
Drilled and tapped for M10 studs and used the stainless steel gasket Volvo uses on 2000+ era turbo models, only had to enlarge the holes in it as well. But any other stainless steel T3 gasket should work.
Did this in 2010 and the turbo hasn't been removed since, holding up fine.

EDIT: thats what I did to fit a regular flat flanged T3 housing. Volvo one fits in one go but I didn't have one and used a better flowing one instead.
 
Do you have a turbo block? If so, I used this:
https://yoshifab.com/store/turbo-red-block-10-oil-return-conversion-kit.html
and this:
https://yoshifab.com/store/turbo-red-block-10an-oil-return-line-garrett-turbo.html

You can piece the return line together yourself with ebay and Summit Racing AN fittings.

I don't have a block yet but can get my hands on one. As far as the lines go, for the feed line I'm going to cut it and splice it with some high heat oil lines to compensate for the new position of the turbo, that way I can reuse the line that goes into the block but change the banjo bolt fitting to a -4an to 14mm insert into the block
 
I don't have a block yet but can get my hands on one. As far as the lines go, for the feed line I'm going to cut it and splice it with some high heat oil lines to compensate for the new position of the turbo, that way I can reuse the line that goes into the block but change the banjo bolt fitting to a -4an to 14mm insert into the block

I spliced a line on first car...caused a fire. Never again. Always used braided feed after that
 
I don't have a block yet but can get my hands on one. As far as the lines go, for the feed line I'm going to cut it and splice it with some high heat oil lines to compensate for the new position of the turbo, that way I can reuse the line that goes into the block but change the banjo bolt fitting to a -4an to 14mm insert into the block


OK you should never be allowed around tools or cars again.
 
Well I check in the storage unit and found my 16T laying around with the angle flange. Seems like using this will be a lot more straight forward. I'll eliminate the need for the external bypass valve and be able to use oem oil feed and return lines as well as the water cooling lines. Definitely alleviates some problems. I'm just going to get the head rebuilt at a machine shop so it will be all good to go.
 
I don't have a block yet but can get my hands on one. As far as the lines go, for the feed line I'm going to cut it and splice it with some high heat oil lines to compensate for the new position of the turbo, that way I can reuse the line that goes into the block but change the banjo bolt fitting to a -4an to 14mm insert into the block

What I posted was for the return line. You can get a m14x1.5 to -4AN adapter for the oil feed on the block then an adapter to the feed on the T3. Mine was 1/8 NPT threaded, YMMV. Then get or make a braided -4AN feed line.

If you don't have a turbo block, you will not have the port for the return line and will need to figure something else out, like add a AN fitting to the oil pan.
 
What I posted was for the return line. You can get a m14x1.5 to -4AN adapter for the oil feed on the block then an adapter to the feed on the T3. Mine was 1/8 NPT threaded, YMMV. Then get or make a braided -4AN feed line.

If you don't have a turbo block, you will not have the port for the return line and will need to figure something else out, like add a AN fitting to the oil pan.

I am going to run with this 16T I have laying around. It will bring the turbo system to a more modern standard and help eliminate the need for the external bypass valve from the garret. Ill need lines, but since the 16T never came on a redblock, I need to measure.

I plan on using a 70cm 4AN 1/4" braided oil feed line kit with a 1.8mm restrictor to turbo side, 4AN 5/16" braided water feed lines with a 3/8" barb and a oil return pipe kit with a 5/8" barb but I need to measure the holes to see if these will work/fit into the redblock from the turbo

Im also researching for some valve springs to use. I dont need Yoshifab ones because I am not going to be redlining at 8k-9k RPM. Considering the b20 double springs but have read not to go with those.
 
I plan on using a 70cm 4AN 1/4" braided oil feed line kit with a 1.8mm restrictor to turbo side, 4AN 5/16" braided water feed lines with a 3/8" barb and a oil return pipe kit with a 5/8" barb but I need to measure the holes to see if these will work/fit into the redblock from the turbo.

You don't need a restrictor. The TD04 turbos have a restrictor inside the CHRA.

This will work fine for a 16T as well:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/MAMBA-Turb...706240?hash=item3d4c376e80:g:1GMAAOSwfSldAHZU
s-l1600.jpg
 
You don't need a restrictor. The TD04 turbos have a restrictor inside the CHRA.

This will work fine for a 16T as well:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/MAMBA-Turb...706240?hash=item3d4c376e80:g:1GMAAOSwfSldAHZU
s-l1600.jpg

Appreciate that. I had seen that earlier but was unsure. Since the 16T didn't come on the redblocks, just want to confirm that those sizes will fit into the oil feed line into the block. Using this thread as a guide - http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=30813 - it said that the oil feed line is 14X1.5mm.
 
If you already have a B230FT with a 13C you can literally just replace the turbo with a 16T (clocking aside) and the oil feed, drain and water lines will bolt up.

You don't need to use the Mamba kit (or other) if you already have the stock lines.
 
If you already have a B230FT with a 13C you can literally just replace the turbo with a 16T (clocking aside) and the oil feed, drain and water lines will bolt up.

You don't need to use the Mamba kit (or other) if you already have the stock lines.

Unfortunately I dont. My car came with the Garrett T3 Turbo.
 
Unfortunately I dont. My car came with the Garrett T3 Turbo.

Ok, sorry I misunderstood.

I don't know offhand, but someone else will surely chime in.

I assume that the oil feed port on the block is the same thread size between cars that came with a T3 and cars that came with a 13C turbo.
 
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