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The Buchka 242 Daily Driver

Hey Alex awesome stuff!

Saw your car featured on a Youtube video and thought I would log back into Turbobricks to check out your build.

Good to see you're still doing amazing work!
 
Thanks guys! Really appreciate the kind words.

Axle is coming along slowly but surely. Welded the tube flanges on this weekend and tack welded the suspension mounts in preparation for a test fit in Duder's currently axle-less 245.

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Considering the new axle will have aluminum calipers and no drum brake mechanism I think another 20lb weight savings over stock is reasonable. This should put the new axle at about 50lbs lighter than the factory assembly. Not quite as good as I was hoping for but I still think it'll make a big difference in how the car drives.
 
Significant weight savings, indeed. Nice to see my bathroom scale measuring wasn't too far off. Had noted 1030 weight at 122lbs and 1031 was +10-12lb. Maybe I saved as little as 8lb going to the 1030. Worth it for the street cred / mod sheet. My '87 always wanted to be a '79.

http://forums.turbobricks.com/showpost.php?p=951897&postcount=1

Serious question: zero or non-zero degrees of camber?

Obvious question: Got a color picked out, or going natural patina?

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(You should remember this one)
 
I've been slacking on the axle. I should get back on the horse soon though.

I do remember that one quite well. The diff housing I have was sourced from the same place, might actually be the one in your photo. Probably going to get the axle tubes yellow zinc plated. Natural patina is in these days but I think I prefer some degree of corrosion resistance.

I still have to figure out a way to straighten the tubes back out, they did get a little crooked after welding, even with the relatively sturdy fixture. I think I'm going to try and get about .25-.5 degrees of negative camber, we'll see how it pans out.
 
I've been slacking on the axle. I should get back on the horse soon though.

I do remember that one quite well. The diff housing I have was sourced from the same place, might actually be the one in your photo. Probably going to get the axle tubes yellow zinc plated. Natural patina is in these days but I think I prefer some degree of corrosion resistance.

I still have to figure out a way to straighten the tubes back out, they did get a little crooked after welding, even with the relatively sturdy fixture. I think I'm going to try and get about .25-.5 degrees of negative camber, we'll see how it pans out.
No idea how much your axle tubes warped so this might not be enough, but 8 years ago I worked at a company doing wheel alignments and straightening axles on trucks. We used an induction heater to straighten solid axles and get toe in/out to 0. We'd heat up the side of the axle that needs to get shorter to adjust toe in/out to a bit below the temperature needed to harden it so not affecting the metal and then cool it rapidly with water. It'll shrink further on that side than it was before heating it. Might be an idea. This was done of course with the alignment measuring equipment on the wheels to measure what's going on real time.
 
Hey Amazing build!!!

hey nice job, Ive seen your 240 in the donut video!!!!
Im almost done with my build, A few things more and ready to hit the road, JACK!!!!!
congrats in the Awards!!!
Take care
DZ:cool:
 
I've been slacking on the axle. I should get back on the horse soon though.

I do remember that one quite well. The diff housing I have was sourced from the same place, might actually be the one in your photo. Probably going to get the axle tubes yellow zinc plated. Natural patina is in these days but I think I prefer some degree of corrosion resistance.

I still have to figure out a way to straighten the tubes back out, they did get a little crooked after welding, even with the relatively sturdy fixture. I think I'm going to try and get about .25-.5 degrees of negative camber, we'll see how it pans out.

A driveshaft shop can help with that. I know mine (Tucson Driveline and Balance) offers that service. It does involve a massive torch, but I don't know what other machines are used.
 
When I bent an axle tube on the quick change in my race car the replcement tube must have warped a little when they welded on the caliper and shock brackets because they laid a couple of vertical beads of weld on the opposite side of the tube to straighten it.
 
No idea how much your axle tubes warped so this might not be enough, but 8 years ago I worked at a company doing wheel alignments and straightening axles on trucks. We used an induction heater to straighten solid axles and get toe in/out to 0. We'd heat up the side of the axle that needs to get shorter to adjust toe in/out to a bit below the temperature needed to harden it so not affecting the metal and then cool it rapidly with water. It'll shrink further on that side than it was before heating it. Might be an idea. This was done of course with the alignment measuring equipment on the wheels to measure what's going on real time.

That's basically what I'm planning on doing. We don't have an oxy-acetylene setup at the shop so I'll just lay a shallow bead across the tube with the TIG and quench it with some water. That should induce enough shrinkage to move it around a bit.

hey nice job, Ive seen your 240 in the donut video!!!!
Im almost done with my build, A few things more and ready to hit the road, JACK!!!!!
congrats in the Awards!!!
Take care
DZ:cool:

Thanks, glad you enjoyed the video!

A big rosebud torch and a rag full of water.....


How many torques is that center section good for?

Not sure to be honest. Driving style plays a big part in driveline reliability. I don't have a habit of dumping the clutch or doing drag race starts so I think it should be fine at the power level I have now and plan to have in the future.
 
That's basically what I'm planning on doing. We don't have an oxy-acetylene setup at the shop so I'll just lay a shallow bead across the tube with the TIG and quench it with some water. That should induce enough shrinkage to move it around a bit.

Waiting for video from this when it happens, I've wanted to do this long time:)

Great build as allways! ;-)
 
Bringing this back up to current status

Plated, powder coated, and final assembled the axle. Got the brake plumbing mostly done, starting to run out of excuses to not bolt it to the car:

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Picked up a 7 speed dual clutch gearbox, adapter kit, and a controller a while back, been slowly chipping away at the wiring for it.

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Fulfilled a very old dream of having a stack dash display in my car. This one has been upgraded with completely new internals my brother designed and programmed along with an OLED display. I'm super happy with it and the integration came out pretty nice. All the parameters on the display are pumped in via CAN and the page configurations are all settable with config files on an onboard SD card. It's really slick and Karl did a great job on it.

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I've gotten pretty fed up with the shortcomings of the Link G4+ ECU. I decided to upgrade to a Life Racing F88 and since the fake race car is getting a similar Life ECU and PDU I inherited the ECUMaster PDU that we'll be wiring in as well. The schematics are all done and should be a fairly straightforward switch in the next month or so.

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I did a ~400 mile road rally in the car a couple of weeks ago and uncovered some deficiencies in the cooling system. I have a lightly used low pressure drop PWR rad pack and ducting setup on the way that should get that issue taken care of for good (famous last words). One of the guys at the rally is a very talented photographer and snapped this rolling shot that came out awesome.

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Beautiful work. Any more pictures or details of the dash "filler" plate? I'm curious how you integrated the oil pressure, headlight, charging lights.
 
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