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Classic failed ECT?

Ignition coil primary circuit test:

-Test lamp between coil negative post and a good ground.
-key on. Lamp should be ON
-CRANK- lamp should blink



I remember now why I didn't join this thread earlier....WASTED SPARK CONVERSION.


Your car probably doesn't run due to your handy work. Honestly.
 
Thanks...

Help find where it goes wrong?

I checked the two outputs of the ignition module, at the harness of the coil pack. The coil pack receives pulsing signals to fire the plugs. I mean, I've seen spark, I just posted my results to make sure I did the test right.

Injector pulse; tried it the way you described and it's still the same as the video I posted. It does pulse, seems weak and kinda dies off towards the end of cranking. But it pulses.

Lame. I definitely posted a page and a half ago it was wasted spark converted.
 
Should of started with the car details, but I was going towards a classic ect failure...

1990 745 lh2.4
Wasted spark conversion using miata j702t ignition module and 2x2 coil pack.
Fuel rail swapped for one with a schrader valve and no CSI
Cold start injector is deleted and manifolds are swapped
954 chipped fuel ecu as my original 560 had some other issues

Post 20. :roll:
 
Well if you did that wasted sparks conversion then you gotta bad solder inside the EZK or a bad wire from the ezk to the coil pack or a bad ignition module. You should swap all that stuff out one by one to figure out where you went wrong. So get another EZK and wasted board, install that. Then try new wires to ignition module, then new ignition module, then coil pack.
 
The pulse WILL be weak looking on the injector pulse test.

If it won't run on ether it's your spark system.
 
Yep, one issue within a year a half with wasted spark and it was a used connector that I have since replaced. During that time I also replaced all the exterior solder joints with crimp connectors.

I'm no expert, that's why I've been following advice and stories from the more experienced....with that said, I said it didn't run on brake cleaner or starting fluid and said i was leaning towards spark issue 20 posts ago as well.

Instead of just redoing the whole WS spark setup (that has been running great honestly) I'll read thru the WS thread and see if I can verify that it's working as it should...if not, we'll then I'll have found my issue.
 

Don't roll your eyes. It should have been post 1. Based on what you are describing, and what we have been walking you through, you have wasted many hours of people's time here. To keep doing the same thing over and over again expecting different results is a sign of insanity, or, stupidity. The answer to your problem is something you likely already knew, yet, didn't want to admit.
 
Lol okay man. You were only in it for 1 or 2 posts tops before I mention the details. The only info before that was fuel pressure.

When I figure out the problem, I'll make sure to post back, but can't blame me for not reading....

I'm not sure what you are referring too, about trying the same thing over and over...I said it had spark. I said I smelled fuel. Spark was confirmed on page 1. It was verified it was a spark issue with brake cleaner on the beggining of page 2. Seems to me, I'm not the one asking the same question expecting different results.
 
Like I said, that should have been in your first post. Go ahead and stay in denial. I'm sure that's where you want to be. Let me clue you in, it makes a huge difference in the approach we would take to help you if we actually know the history of the car. You completely left out in your initial post what is likely the entire problem with the car. Isn't this the same car that was supposedly eating ECT sensors?
 
Lmao...yeah eating ects, as in when I received the car, an aftermarket ect harness was installed and it was a poor connection. I went thru 2 used ones and a new ECT before I swapped to an oem harness and my problem dissappeared.

I feel like I could revert back to the stock ignition setup and the blame would be a wire I didn't crimp right. For every other person on the forum running the buchka wasted spark board, would that be your immediate answer?

Well after you *finally* figured out it was wasted spark. Yeah it should of been in post 1..my bad. But it was within the first page. Shows how much of my responses you actually read. Or when I mentioned it had spark on all cylinders, but was WEAK.
 
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Lmao...yeah eating ects, as in when I received the car, an aftermarket ect harness was installed and it was a poor connection. I went thru 2 used ones and a new one before I swapped to an oem harness and my problem dissappeared.

I feel like I could revert back to the stock ignition setup and the blame would be a wire I didn't crimp right. For every other person on the forum running the buchka wasted spark board, would that be your immediate answer?

Well after you *finally* figured out it was wasted spark. Yeah it should of been in post 1..my bad. But it was within the first page. Shows how much of my responses you actually read.

All you did for most of this thread was drive the car, break down, try to start it. Over and over. Thus, my comment about doing the same thing over and over again. You take no responsibility for any of your actions. The fact you have no codes generated and seem to have all the ingredients for a running car when you supposedly check, that should make you go, "Hmmmm, what am I missing here?" "Perhaps, the fact that I have almost no clue what I'm doing and I cut up the car's harness?" Duh! What would I have told you after about 2-3 helpful posts from members on here had you let on in post 1? A: Get out your wiring diagram that you performed your wasted spark conversion from and go point to point with an ohmmeter and verify everything is in spec. As of right now, as far as I can ASSUME, you haven't done that.
 
Man. This is the reason why I am growing tired of this place. If I must actually explain the reason for trying to start it, over and over, is because I need to get to work without disturbing my kids school schedule. But I shouldn't, because it doesn't matter. The fact I tried to start over and over has no correlation with the ****ing problem. It meant I needed to get somewhere. It also gave some info on when and how often the problem was occurring. It's not like I blew up my engine because I filled the oil with gas and then kept asking TB why my engine blew up. I also included a decent ways back I was not experienced in any kind of electrical testing...so ya know, either ask questions or assume, but you know what that does...

Instead of just saying, since you have a meter now (cause you read my replies) you can try resistance testing your wasted spark setup (which I should've provided in post 1, but was indeed supplied in the first page and if you were really that much invested that your so butt hurt, could've just clicked on my build thread and seen the car and all the mods.)

Good idea I must admit. Honestly though, reverting to stock kinda sounds easier, it's only a couple wires from the stock igniter and a distributor to reinstall.
 
We are trying to help you, however, you have to help us help you. We don’t have crystal balls that we can query about what the possible problem is. What we have are countless years of combined experience of troubleshooting vehicles like this. That’s why we need to know what you have done and what the results were in order to help you.
 
Did you get an in-line spark tester?

Yes. Pulsed on every cylinder. Also swapped injectors today with no change. But then again I could of fouled my plugs from the 5-6 attempts of starting?

I'm pulling my intank tomorrow to inspect the assembly. If that fails, I'll reinstall the stock ignition system. Carefully.

I have a friend that works at Volvo as a TMA coordinator that I have reached out too. He seems interested in willing to help me solve the issue. He mentioned the cali cars have a plastic piece in tank that is prone to breaking and leaking internally. Again fingers crossed. My car came with egr and a cali spec sticker in the engine bay.

I'm not sending this one to the crusher.
 
So, i held off on posting my solution until i was for sure..

tl;dr...ezk computer failed/was failing gold box 214

Originally symptoms showed failed ect
Very hard cold starting, but would always start eventually.
Came to the conlusion of a bad wasted spark board or more than liekly my shoddy soldering.

Seapped back to stock ignition system, powerstage, coil and head mounted dizzy.

Continued to have intermittent stalling issues. But would always restart. Driving down the high way the engine would just cut out randomly, i put it in nuetral and it would start right back up. This continued for about a month until i bought a single new coil to dizzy wire.

Chocked that up to a bad coil to dizzy wire.

Now car ran perfect, parked at work, 10 hours later, same issue has before except now the car will not start. For 2 weeks i went over wvery diagnostic test amd came up with nothing. It had spark, fuel and compression...i tried 4 CPS including a brand new one and didnt make a difference. Checked codes and everytime i tried to start, even after resetting the battery, it always showed the same code...241. Cps code.

New ngk plugs, much needed wires, and a new cap and rotor and the car wouldnt start still

So finally after so much frustration and heartache, i swapped to a black box ezk and all is well. Until someone sideswiped me that same day on the way home..and then fled the scene. But thatll be a different thread...
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