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Getting turbo redblock into the 300hp range?

HE351 and GT3582R are pretty close in terms of wheel diameters, for the record. The Holset has a larger compressor but the Garrett has a larger turbine.

Compressor
HE351CW: 86mm exducer
GT3582R: 82mm exducer

Turbine
HE351CW: 65mm inducer
GT3582R: 68mm inducer

Well, thats also considering he is using a genuine 3582...

but also goes to what I was saying. On a fairly stock motor arrangement, the 3582 will be a bit lazy. Especially if only 300-350whp is what is wanted.
 
A 3582 is definitely overkill for 300-350whp, for sure. It's more like a ~500-600whp turbo. But then again I'd argue that any Holset from a later 5.9L Cummins is also oversized...main difference is price. One is OE and easy to get cheap, the other isn't.
 
I feel like the id1000 injectors might be a little bit overkill I'm looking at delphi 17113814 I figured if I'm running high 200s 65lb injectors would be more than enough
My problem now is with the welded diff in the rain the car is so hard to keep from sliding all over the place but on dry pavement it just needs a little bit more power to break traction when I need it
I'm just not even sure what to look for as far as injectors other than being low impertinence ev1s
 
The ones I used were 46 lb injectors from a 80's HO Ford of some sort, they just fit in my 740 T but had to double oring the top and bottom to seal correctly. I alternated between 2.5 and 3 bar regulators to get the correct one, also don't remember where it ended up. Maybe TLOA remembers the injectors he used to sell long ago, but they worked great with the combo I listed several posts ago and that he cosigned in his post. The balance between the injectors and the 3" MAF is how I got away with no chips or tuning. Not ideal, but it is OG Turbobrick ziptie and ducktape engineering. I daily drove it like that for over 10 years, running 22 psi on a 15G, then doing the T3/T04E turbo at 15 PSI. Like I said, the only problems were a slightly rough idle, and throwing huge flames out the tail pipe occasionally while shifting at high RPMs. If you consider that a problem...I didn't.
 
There are lots of good online injector sizing calculators, such as:
https://www.injectorrx.com/fuel-injector-cleaning-and-flow-testing-service/fuel-injectors/injector-calculators/injector-size-calculator/

If you're using E85, your injectors will need to be ~50% bigger. Also, compared to NA calculations, extra fuel is dumped into turbo engines at higher boost to help cool the air. Better injector sizing calculators include this (~.65 bsfc turbo vs ~.5 bsfc NA). For duty cycle, 80% or 85% max is reasonable.

If you have a turbo LH ECU and the original greentop turbo injectors, they're lowZ. The resistor pack effectively converts them to highZ. If you're buying new injectors, just get highZ and bypass the resistor pack. Neither the LH ECU nor a MegaSquirt can drive lowZ injectors directly (without the R pack).
 
I feel like the id1000 injectors might be a little bit overkill I'm looking at delphi 17113814 I figured if I'm running high 200s 65lb injectors would be more than enough
My problem now is with the welded diff in the rain the car is so hard to keep from sliding all over the place but on dry pavement it just needs a little bit more power to break traction when I need it
I'm just not even sure what to look for as far as injectors other than being low impertinence ev1s

for high 200's you could get away with 42-50lb/hr injectors just fine. Myself i did my 350whp on LH with 75lb/hr injectors on e85 and I was still rich on the big end. Sure I might of been near the end of the DC on them. If you do get the GT3582 then sure 65lb would be a good start with the 012 (3" amm)

For LH on a turbo car you want Low impedance if you want to bolt in, if you find a deal on high impedance get those and just bypass the resistor pack.
 
Neither the LH ECU nor a MegaSquirt can drive lowZ injectors directly (without the R pack).

Ooopsie!

A MicroSquirt will not run low impedance injectors without resistors,
however a MS2/3 with a v3.0 or v3.57 main board will run low impedance injectors without resistors, by using PWM.

:cool:
 
Yeah, you're right, but it isn't easy. To run lowZ injectors with a MS2 board, you need to hack up and rewire a couple traces, and then run an extra beefy wire by itself (bypassing the DB-37) to +12v for just the injectors. Otherwise, there will be major electrical noise problems due to switching the LowZ injector currents during PWM operation through other circuits on the PCB. I have pictures somewhere showing how to do it properly, but it's much easier just to use highZ injectors and avoid the issue.
 
however there are noise issues with the v3 boards running pwm due to a design issue, so it's generally not recommended/modifications are suggested if not required. so... I wouldn't run a v3 board with low-z injectors.

anymore, if you're going to be buying injectors, just get new high-z bosch injectors and move on.
 
So I talked to linuxman51 the other day about just going the microsquirt route cause it seems like a more insurance way of running things and when I decide to get a scrapyard motor and rebuild it I wont have to worry about any negatives down the road from just doing a chip if I decide on anything else but from what I've gathered this is my plan so far if anyone want to through anymore info that I may be missing go ahead
he351cw
AEM Wideband
Injectors (guess I still need to do my research cause I have no clue what to run at this point lol I've read so many diffrent options)
Cam (all I could find was a stage 2 rsi)
Walbro 255 fuel pump
Stainless Manifold from ebay
Wastegate 38mm 15-20psi (haven't decided on the boost yet)
Microsquirt
3" maf
Ebay intercooler (still dont know what size to run or if I should just keep the stock one?)

I do kind of realize now that 300 may be too much being that it's for autocross and drifting and for that kind of power with the stripped out 940 that weights less than 3000 pounds it wont be practical
I do however like the idea of being able to have a computer read out and tuning at my disposal and just a tad bit more power is all I really need in the long run as far as low to mid 200s I dont see that being a problem on the track
 
Skip the ebay exhaust manifold and just use the 90+ that's machined to a T3 flange, or an older T3 turbo manifold.
If you must use an external WG, have one added to the exhaust housing or manifold.

Also of note, a he351 is going to be a bit large for autocross and may be a bit too big for drifting as well. This is all dependent on track layout.
 
Skip the ebay exhaust manifold and just use the 90+ that's machined to a T3 flange, or an older T3 turbo manifold.
If you must use an external WG, have one added to the exhaust housing or manifold.

Also of note, a he351 is going to be a bit large for autocross and may be a bit too big for drifting as well. This is all dependent on track layout.

Going to a tubular header helps a lot with spool time on the 341/351. My old car was all in at 3500-ish rpm with a header and a 351.
 
Also, if you're more okay with "just 240-250whp," something like a td04-19t is something to consider. IIRC, kaplhenke made 280whp on a maxed out 19t on his beige wagon a while ago. It'll be quicker to spool up and you can keep a stock manifold, but itll be close to tapped out at that power level if you ever want more.
 
Skip the ebay exhaust manifold and just use the 90+ that's machined to a T3 flange, or an older T3 turbo manifold.
If you must use an external WG, have one added to the exhaust housing or manifold.

Also of note, a he351 is going to be a bit large for autocross and may be a bit too big for drifting as well. This is all dependent on track layout.

Any other better options for drifting as far as turbo? Inknownpeople run the white block turbos alot
I'd rather just run stock bypass valves at the end of the day to keep from having to tinker with it
And if you believe the stock manifold is fine I'm great with that ahaha saves me money down the road
 
3500 rpm is still pretty lazy for something with a 6500 rpm redline...

A 19t would be perfect for auto-x or drifting on small to medium tracks. Most people aren't doing 80+mph entries in 4th while drifting.

If you want to spend the money, the Kingawa 19t that's setup for RWD volvos is a decent option. It has a large enough hotside to not be that bad on the top end, and it still offers great spool characteristics.
 
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