• Hello Guest, welcome to the initial stages of our new platform!
    You can find some additional information about where we are in the process of migrating the board and setting up our new software here

    Thank you for being a part of our community!

how do you scan for codes?

The Jetronic is a fuel computer. There's a separate ignition computer. I don't know where the Chrysler ignition computer is kept, but on my 940 with Bosch EZK ignition, it's behind the dash on the driver side.
As for deleting vacuum components, you can get rid of the charcoal canister and plug up the ports. I don't know if 240s had cruise control, but if it does you can gut that too. The rest I would leave alone. Maybe you could remove the flame trap system and put little air filters on the nipples, but it would be cheaper just to buy the flame trap consumables when needed.

Thanks for clearing that up for me. If I find the ignition computer, can I replace it with a later year Ign comp?

Removing vacuum lines and plugging the outlets help to diagnose and isolate leaks. At least that is my thinking.

Also what happens to the raw fuel that is filtered by the canister? Where does it go?
Thanks for the help guys.
 
You'd need a wiring harness and a few other things to convert to EZK. I think there's plans to do it on Barton's 240turbo.com somewhere.
The fuel vapors go into the charcoal. It takes forever for it to happen, but they can clog up. Or less often, the foam filter at the bottom can disintegrate and drop out all the charcoal. At least with the cylindrical Rochester canisters.
 
Chrysler ignition computer is near the front of the passenger side fender, next to the wiper tank. Has a little vacuum sensor on it. Haven't had any problems with mine as far as I can tell.

ICU-240-2.jpg
 
Diagnostic: Miss at low rpm smooths out at higher. No tick thru stethoscope on #2 at low and high rpm.
I decided to go ahead and get all new injectors since they have not been replaced in 30 + yrs.
I just replaced ECU because it failed the fuel pump check.
I'm waiting on the injectors.

I saw mention of mustang injectors. Any good reason to consider them?

The Mustang injector will be 4-hole. Find flow that matches your originals. Such as 19 lbs/hr, 21 lbs/hr. Ford Red-tops are 30 lbs/hr. These ratings may be at 39.15 psi. not at 43.5 psi. This link covers the different Mustang injector:

http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/threads/fuel-injector-size.858589/
 
Last edited:
Thanks for clearing that up for me. If I find the ignition computer, can I replace it with a later year Ign comp?

Removing vacuum lines and plugging the outlets help to diagnose and isolate leaks. At least that is my thinking.

Also what happens to the raw fuel that is filtered by the canister? Where does it go?
Thanks for the help guys.

The outgassing fumes created as the car sits are absorbed by the charcoal and as the car runs it slowly is drawn back out of the activated charcoal element by the vacuum.

A very very minor vacuum 'leak' that does not affect performance or operation in any measurable way.

Look elsewhere, and be glad you have dead simple highly reliable LH 2.2 which simply runs the car.
 
The outgassing fumes created as the car sits are absorbed by the charcoal and as the car runs it slowly is drawn back out of the activated charcoal element by the vacuum.

A very very minor vacuum 'leak' that does not affect performance or operation in any measurable way.

Look elsewhere, and be glad you have dead simple highly reliable LH 2.2 which simply runs the car.
Thanks That explains the canister. So I have a good reliable system even with the much maligned Chrysler ignition control unit?
Will it handle a T cam? And with stock injectors or will I gain with bigger injectors?
 
Thanks That explains the canister. So I have a good reliable system even with the much maligned Chrysler ignition control unit?
Will it handle a T cam? And with stock injectors or will I gain with bigger injectors?

Stock injectors are fine. Any bigger would be a waste. T cam is a direct drop in. Keep in mind it is only marginally better than the current M cam, but has a little more torque.
 
:nod:

^^ Restore it to stock.

Put on a new cap / rotor check your spark plugs and ohm out your plug wires to chase a misfire.

Replaced cap. Has strong spark on all cyl.
Checked Injectors with steth. while running. 2 has no click. 3 has intermittent click. 1 an 4 have strong clicks. New injectors should be here tonight. We'll see.
Restore what to stock? The car? The cam?
 
Replaced cap. Has strong spark on all cyl.
Checked Injectors with steth. while running. 2 has no click. 3 has intermittent click. 1 an 4 have strong clicks. New injectors should be here tonight. We'll see.
Restore what to stock? The car? The cam?

He was implying that maintenance comes first on these old cars, and he *really* likes them when they're stock-ish because they often time work so well.

What injectors did you buy? Hopefully good used OE ones or new ones from a reputable company?
 
Replaced cap. Has strong spark on all cyl.
Checked Injectors with steth. while running. 2 has no click. 3 has intermittent click. 1 an 4 have strong clicks. New injectors should be here tonight. We'll see.
Restore what to stock? The car? The cam?

you should have swapped the injector plugs around to see if the problem followed the wire or stayed with the injector.
the EV1 type Bosch sockets often have terminals that back out and need to be pushed back into the holder
 
He was implying that maintenance comes first on these old cars, and he *really* likes them when they're stock-ish because they often time work so well.

What injectors did you buy? Hopefully good used OE ones or new ones from a reputable company?

My intention is to get the car to "base zero" before any mods.

After that I want a little more torque for pulling a small trailer.

I bought the injectors from Parts geek for stock Volvo B230f.
We'll see...
 
Do circuit verification on that injector. Try a test lamp.

Heard about the lamp idea, didn't know how.

"you should have swapped the injector plugs around to see if the problem followed the wire or stayed with the injector.
the EV1 type Bosch sockets often have terminals that back out and need to be pushed back into the holder"

I wiggled the plugs, no change. I figured they were 33 years old and looking at the paper work in the glove box had never been replaced. (There were receipts for maintenance all the way back to 1986.) So why not change them now.

I'll check for spray while they are out.
 
Heard about the lamp idea, didn't know how.



I wiggled the plugs, no change. I figured they were 33 years old and looking at the paper work in the glove box had never been replaced. (There were receipts for maintenance all the way back to 1986.) So why not change them now.

I'll check for spray while they are out.

wiggling isn't enough

and:
1.wasted money
2. wasted time
 
Unplug an injector, peel the boot back and BACKPROBE a lamp between the two terminals. Blink?

Thanks.
What voltage goes to injectors? I'm thinking I could supply voltage and listen for click.
Since I don't have the test light.

Waste of time and money.
I'm a retired old fart so plenty of time until I don't.
Money is well spent if my wife can drive it confidently.

Thanks for the advice.
 
Thanks.
What voltage goes to injectors? I'm thinking I could supply voltage and listen for click.
Since I don't have the test light.


I'm a retired old fart so plenty of time until I don't.
Money is well spent if my wife can drive it confidently.

Thanks for the advice.

check them by looking to see if the contacts have retreated from the connectors and swapping them from injector to injector. they are batch fired.
you should check the two ground wires going to the intake as well.

If these tests are beyond you, no shame in having a shop take over

Money is well spent if my wife can drive it confidently.
no offence, but she won't be able to do that with your level of expertise of blind part swapping. your money will be best spent following the advice you have asked for, or paying a mechanic.
 
Back
Top