• Hello Guest, welcome to the initial stages of our new platform!
    You can find some additional information about where we are in the process of migrating the board and setting up our new software here

    Thank you for being a part of our community!

tfrasca's 142 Turbo Project

I mostly want it running to get the verdict on that turbo and backhousing combo :-P

Same. I confirmed that the .85 twin scroll housing is the exact same form factor, so it will be easy to swap if the 1.00 is too laggy. I really doubt it'll be terrible, aside from potential problems with my manifold design.
 
Looks nice Tyler!

Makes my dinky fuel rail project seem like childs play. lol

Well I bet yours will run before mine does at this point. I'm almost done with the fuel rail for this, I just need to bring it to Noah's to face the ends. I got -8 ORB fittings, but I don't know how to cut an accurate chamfer in the hole for the o ring to seal, so I'll probably just use copper or aluminum washers. Is that what you did?
 
Yeah, we'll see about that. I can't find the stupid heater hoses, gotta just bypass them at this point since the firewall plate is different than a 240 and NLA, and mine's rusted. At least that heater pipe we fabbed up fit nice though! lol

Might fire it up this weekend if things go well, then I can start tuning on the new setup, assuming all the cards align perfectly...
 
Well I bet yours will run before mine does at this point. I'm almost done with the fuel rail for this, I just need to bring it to Noah's to face the ends. I got -8 ORB fittings, but I don't know how to cut an accurate chamfer in the hole for the o ring to seal, so I'll probably just use copper or aluminum washers. Is that what you did?

There's a whole spec (pdf) for the ORB/J1926-1 fitting and when properly applied with a port tool (pdf) I've seen these take a 10,000m of water column (from the outside!) when assembled by highschool kids. On the flip side it's a pretty resilient seal if the chamfer is concentric to the hole, smooth, and provides a good corner crush into the fitting. The forces between the ramp and the inside edge of the fitting are tremendous given the force exerted by the threads.

I modified my NiW fuel rail to take ORB and an external regulator and, carefully, hit it with a 60* cutter down to a little less than the right port ID. I did that by hand but I hedged my bets and cut the threads deep enough that I could face off another 0.050 or so and try again if I needed. After populating it with injectors and mounting it on the head I set the regulator with compressed air. The fittings were happily leak free. I've since recut the oil filter/thermostat housing and a coolant port at that angle but those fit in the mill. The oil thermostat ORB "ports" had nothing more than a thread lead-in to seat the o-ring. I imagine most users just tighten the crap out of that and it's leak-free-ish enough. At these pressures its a fairly robust sealing method.

So impressed with the build. I keep telling myself: "no, I'm not going to rip mine up. First it needs to run before it comes apart again!" You're so many iterations ahead of mine.
 
Yeah, we'll see about that. I can't find the stupid heater hoses, gotta just bypass them at this point since the firewall plate is different than a 240 and NLA, and mine's rusted. At least that heater pipe we fabbed up fit nice though! lol

Might fire it up this weekend if things go well, then I can start tuning on the new setup, assuming all the cards align perfectly...

That's funny, I'm starting to think I may bypass my heater core, too. Normally I'd never willingly tae the heater out of a street car, but the 16 valve head makes using the stock heater valve impossible, and even if I make a custom 240-style one, that space would be nice to use for fuel line routing. We'll see.
 
Oh, and for the 140 series connoisseurs out there can we get a shot of that alternator mount!

You can tell I made this before I got the TIG welder. I've thought about remaking it with better welds, but it'll get powder coated anyway and never seen be anyone. I may try to replace the universal tensioner bracket with a heim jointed one, because it'll be easier to adjust.

gH3AjOB.jpg


MMB5BJ9.jpg
 
Just got word it sounds like the late 140's will take the 240 heater box as well. Figures, since Ryan tossed his old ones. lol

If I go that route, I will have to see if the heater valve I got works for the 240's, but if not, I've got a NIB late 140 heater valve that will be up for sale, if it's of use.
 
There's a whole spec (pdf) for the ORB/J1926-1 fitting and when properly applied with a port tool (pdf) I've seen these take a 10,000m of water column (from the outside!) when assembled by highschool kids. On the flip side it's a pretty resilient seal if the chamfer is concentric to the hole, smooth, and provides a good corner crush into the fitting. The forces between the ramp and the inside edge of the fitting are tremendous given the force exerted by the threads.

I modified my NiW fuel rail to take ORB and an external regulator and, carefully, hit it with a 60* cutter down to a little less than the right port ID. I did that by hand but I hedged my bets and cut the threads deep enough that I could face off another 0.050 or so and try again if I needed. After populating it with injectors and mounting it on the head I set the regulator with compressed air. The fittings were happily leak free. I've since recut the oil filter/thermostat housing and a coolant port at that angle but those fit in the mill. The oil thermostat ORB "ports" had nothing more than a thread lead-in to seat the o-ring. I imagine most users just tighten the crap out of that and it's leak-free-ish enough. At these pressures its a fairly robust sealing method.

So impressed with the build. I keep telling myself: "no, I'm not going to rip mine up. First it needs to run before it comes apart again!" You're so many iterations ahead of mine.

This is good info, thanks. I cut the threads about 2x deeper than they needed to be, so maybe I'll try to cut a 60? chamfer and see how it looks.
 
That's funny, I'm starting to think I may bypass my heater core, too. Normally I'd never willingly tae the heater out of a street car, but the 16 valve head makes using the stock heater valve impossible, and even if I make a custom 240-style one, that space would be nice to use for fuel line routing. We'll see.

You would highly regret this, lol
 
Yeah, there have been plenty of times when not having heat would have SUCKED. I'll give it a good college try.

I think what I'll need to do is just make a really simple bulkhead pass through thing, then use a universal valve inside the cabin. But the hose barbs in the engine bay will need to be really low profile.
 
Yeah, there have been plenty of times when not having heat would have SUCKED. I'll give it a good college try.

I think what I'll need to do is just make a really simple bulkhead pass through thing, then use a universal valve inside the cabin. But the hose barbs in the engine bay will need to be really low profile.

Would AN or JIC bulkhead fittings with tight 90deg fittings work?
 
I haven't had heat in my car in 5 years, haven't really missed it yet but I also hardly drive it.

Don't think plumbing will be a big deal for you but is a little electric hot rod box attractive at all? I've considered one to facilitate gutting behind the dash.
 
Back
Top