Nice work! Also running the Vredestein ultracs?
As for the swaybar, you could try getting a stiffer front 25mm ipd, I'm assuming you're at 19mm in the back
Indeed, Ultracs, good value for money. Might delete the rear swaybar, as it is already quite stiff.
Update:
I have been driving the car to work for a couple of days, things were going well and the car was driving well already, although I was still taking it easy.
One day I parked it at work, and 30 minutes later I get called by the security:
"Sir do you own a white Volvo?"
That is correct.
"You better get to the parking lot, your car is on fire. Fire department and cops are already there"
I went outside expecting the worst, but the damage is not that bad.
The oil filler cap caught fire because it is next to the turbo, and it ignited the bonnet insulation in the process. This started smoking and set of the security guys at work.
The fire guys ripped out the grill (snapping off the headlight clips), opened the hood, and started spraying powder and then water onto the engine.
They also disconnected the battery and loosened the alternator (?).
After work, I reconnected the battery, slapped aluminium foil around the filler cap, started the car and drove home.
Anyway:
The black marks on the bonnet can be easily cleaned, already tried.
Also, I made a heatshield between turbine and valve cover.
Please learn from my mistakes, I thought it "would probably be fine."
You do not want to risk your car or worse.
After the incident, I drove home with zero issues.
However, after starting it again it was running like crap!
Turns out it cylinders 2 and 3 were not firing.
Tested the ignition signal coming from ECU: everything OK.
Plug wires: OK.
Then I wanted to check the wiring going to the coil and found this:
This was a new connector, so the water probably caused this.
Cleaned it, still no spark at 2&3.
Then I got suspicious that I fried ANOTHER ignition module.
I tested the module, and the 2&3 channel is dead.
How does this guy keep frying ignition modules, do you ask?
Don't do this:
There are 2 notches on the module which cause a gap between heat shield and module. Oops.
New module ordered today.
On the up side:
- Cleaned/de-rusted the 302mm calipers. Next up: Painting.
- Idle control is working
- Fan is controlled by the ECU (used a 2N2222 to let MS fire the fan relay)
To be continued.