What to do? Manifold has ring protruding for turbo. T3/T4 doesn't have this.

[Sliding242]

Apologies, I can't be the first to ask but, my lack of terminology prevents positive search results.

I picked up a t3t4 and where it bolts to the manifold is milled flat. While the exhaust manifold has a protruding ring for the stock turbo.



Should I have the manifold milled flat?

[Hank Scorpio]

Yep. That's all there is to it. Mill the manifold flat, use a metal t3 gasket. Done.

[Sliding242]

any ideas on doing it at home without a mill? It would be about a week before I could find a friend with a mill.

[hiperfauto]

You can buy an adapter.

https://shop.mambatek.com/Turbo-Flan...3-026-0030.htm

[Duder]

Originally Posted by Sliding242

any ideas on doing it at home without a mill? It would be about a week before I could find a friend with a mill.

You could physically remove the material easily enough, but the challenge is getting the surface square and flat to ensure good sealing. Milling would be best but if you're creative and careful then I'm sure you could come up with an alternative.

[Sliding242]

Thank you for the replies, I am going to get the manifold taken off and see if I can get creative with the tools I have. Ill let you guys know how it goes.

[Sliding242]

Oh and does anyone have a good idea for an oil return setup? I have an option to bolt on a 6an fitting and get it onto a hose. Should I cut down the original return tube and run the hose into it? and then come up with a bracket to secure the new setup? or should I not molest the original tube and go with a different route?

[culberro]

TB cheap option: hack up the original drain and use some high temp rubber or silicone hose with good hose clamps. Downside: they’re prone to leaking and oil weeping if not done correctly.
If it’s good enough for million dollar race teams, it’s good enough for TB.

[Sliding242]

Sounds good, I will give it a shot.

So I managed to make some headway removing material very carefully with an angle grinder and a belt sander, its pretty close and will probably finish with a file taking my time. I did manage to snap off one of the studs 3/16 below the surface and proceeded to make matters worse by trying to weld a nut onto it, which I have successfully done many times. This time just didnt go as planned, itll take me a while to get it out.

[Duder]

Sorry to hear about the broken stud. I suggest lots of heat and Kroil...if you attempt to remove it by welding a nut on it again. I find the method that usually works for me is find a nut that’s larger than the thread (like an M10 nut for an M8 stud) and TIG weld it at the ID of the nut.

[Harlard]

I'd drill the thing out and tap for M10x1.25 studs. Should work better than the M8s for that turbine housing.

[AndrewNance]

Just be careful with cheap replacement studs for those things and definitely stay away from stainless. Just make your life easy and spend the extra dollars on OE studs, or some other good quality hardware if you drill/tap them to a larger size.

[Sliding242]

So a little update, took a little longer to get around to, currently juggling 47 projects, but did manage to smooth out the manifold with an angle grinder (sounds cringy but was careful) to get most of the meat off, then a belt sander, and finished it up with a large file for an hour or two and it turned out pretty well.

I did tap the holes to m10x1.5 (thank you Harlard for the suggestion) and suggest to have both a tapered tap and a bottoming tap. One of the holes ends up riding against the body and a tapered tap only gets so far, I had to grind my tapered tap a little to finish the hole. I think the m8 threaded inserts require a slightly smaller hole which is more appealing but a little more $$

Hope to get the manifold and turbo on this week. For hardware I am just using what I have from leftover cars and projects. mismatched studs, two look like good quality, the others are meh so we will see.