• Hello Guest, welcome to the initial stages of our new platform!
    You can find some additional information about where we are in the process of migrating the board and setting up our new software here

    Thank you for being a part of our community!

Sander's 6.0 V12 745 project

All pictures were dead in this thread thanks to tinypic stopping... I'm almost caught up again with re-uploading everything and editing every post I've made. I'll continue later.
Thank you thank you thank you (!) for taking the time to fix so many of them. What a royal pain.

Regarding the fabrication of not only your toys but your machinery in order to build your toys, I continue to be amazed and impressed. Nicely done, every aspect.
 
Thank you all for the compliments!

Thank you thank you thank you (!) for taking the time to fix so many of them. What a royal pain.

Regarding the fabrication of not only your toys but your machinery in order to build your toys, I continue to be amazed and impressed. Nicely done, every aspect.

Thanks you! I'm still not quite up to date with the pics yet because I'm lazy, but I'll get them all reuploaded eventually.

are you planning to put airfilters over the stacks?

Where he'll be "driving" at 30,000 feet, there's no dust in the air :-P

but many small rocks and stones on the tarmac ;)

Just a cage to filter out the birds :p. Unfortunately you wont see the velocity stacks anymore once it's done. I'm planning on making a pair of plenums out of carbon fibre and connect those to an airbox with filter in each corner.

Speaking of the intake, I did make some progress the last few weeks. Working on the throttle linkages. Again since it's 12 of them, meaning all the parts you need are 12 or a multiple of that so lots of work, but slowly getting there. I took all the throttle bodies apart and made new linkage arms for them. Since the orientation of the valve in relation to the arm needs to be the same on all of them, I made a little fixture. Disassemble itb, grind off the part that holds on the old arm, put in fixture, weld, make it look nice and assemble again. Rinse, repeat 12 times.


















Another thing I made now (partly, still need to finish them but like this you get the idea) is the vacuum tube manifold things that connect them all together and will allow me to run actively controlled idle. BMW uses the same setup on their M engines. I'm using the motorcycle injector ports on the itbs for this. They'll connect up behind the engine most likely to go to a single idle valve. BMW connects the idle valve to this manifold on their S54 engine right in the middle, but to do that here I'd have to put the idle valve on top of the engine in the V which will look ugly so I'll try it like this first. If it doesn't work right, I'll change it.









I then had to make another fixture to drill the holes through the 2 rods that hold the 6 lever arms for each bank. They all have to be in the same line. I'll then use a horizontal throttle spool in between these 2 rods that when the throttle cable turns the spool, it'll move these rods the same amount in opposite direction.











 
Looks killer. I learned a few things after getting the S54 throttle bodies running on my car.

Not sure which ECU you're planning on using but I would strongly recommend running an e-throttle to help make it drive smoothly without having to fiddle with linkage ratios. It also allows you to blend between idle valve and throttle opening to make tip-in and tip-out behavior nice and civilized.
 
Looks killer. I learned a few things after getting the S54 throttle bodies running on my car.

Not sure which ECU you're planning on using but I would strongly recommend running an e-throttle to help make it drive smoothly without having to fiddle with linkage ratios. It also allows you to blend between idle valve and throttle opening to make tip-in and tip-out behavior nice and civilized.

Thanks! I was wondering how this setup was working out for you. I hadn't decided on an ECU yet. I was initially leaning towards just using an MS3pro since I want to run it sequentially, but now I'm leaning more towards a Maxxecu pro. I think that's the way to go then as it supports E-throttle. Those seem the only sort of affordable option that can run a V12 sequentially that I'm aware of. I missed it in your thread, what are you running on yours? One difference between the itbs I'm using and the S54 ones is the throttle valve diameter. The ones I'm running are 42mm in diameter, while the S54 ones are 50mm. That should be a bit more controllable with a mechanical linkeage, but E-throttle is probably a good idea for the blending part.
 
Thanks! I was wondering how this setup was working out for you. I hadn't decided on an ECU yet. I was initially leaning towards just using an MS3pro since I want to run it sequentially, but now I'm leaning more towards a Maxxecu pro. I think that's the way to go then as it supports E-throttle. Those seem the only sort of affordable option that can run a V12 sequentially that I'm aware of. I missed it in your thread, what are you running on yours? One difference between the itbs I'm using and the S54 ones is the throttle valve diameter. The ones I'm running are 42mm in diameter, while the S54 ones are 50mm. That should be a bit more controllable with a mechanical linkeage, but E-throttle is probably a good idea for the blending part.

I'm running a Link G4+ Extreme ECU. Similar specification to the Maxxecu Race. It also supports the e-throttle/idle valve blending strategy that i'm currently using. This is not a function the ECU's have a set strategy for, I simply configured the closed loop idle feed forward table a 3D map with coolant temp on the X axis and 0-5% pedal position on the Y. If you set the e-throttle map to leave the throttles closed from 0-4% pedal it makes for pretty good behavior. I can post some screenshots of my current configuration if you'd like.

I would also strongly recommend using one or two S54 idle valves as they flow quite a bit more air than "normal" idle valves. I can free rev my engine to 4000rpm or so using only the idle valve at 100% duty cycle.

The smaller throttle diameter will definitely help but I can guarantee you will be much happer with the driveability by mixing in some idle duty at low RPM.
 
My set-up, having to exchange just one mechanical part for an E-throttle body (BMW X5), controlled by the Maxxecu Race, was pretty simple.
With twelve itb's however...

96SaLxX.jpg
 
I'm running a Link G4+ Extreme ECU. Similar specification to the Maxxecu Race. It also supports the e-throttle/idle valve blending strategy that i'm currently using. This is not a function the ECU's have a set strategy for, I simply configured the closed loop idle feed forward table a 3D map with coolant temp on the X axis and 0-5% pedal position on the Y. If you set the e-throttle map to leave the throttles closed from 0-4% pedal it makes for pretty good behavior. I can post some screenshots of my current configuration if you'd like.

I would also strongly recommend using one or two S54 idle valves as they flow quite a bit more air than "normal" idle valves. I can free rev my engine to 4000rpm or so using only the idle valve at 100% duty cycle.

The smaller throttle diameter will definitely help but I can guarantee you will be much happer with the driveability by mixing in some idle duty at low RPM.

Thanks for the advice, I'd love some screenshots. I was planning on running a single S54 idle valve. If it ends up being too small to run a V12, I can always install another one. I can easily fit 1, 2 gets a bit tight.

Speechless. That engine bay view is incredible

Thank you!

My set-up, having to exchange just one mechanical part for an E-throttle body (BMW X5), controlled by the Maxxecu Race, was pretty simple.
With twelve itb's however...

That does indeed make things easier. Do you have some pics of how you did the gas pedal setup in your car?

This car's one of my favorites on the forum.

Thanks!

Sander.... Making progress?

Not a whole lot, holidays and other stuff I got distracted with. I did continue a bit with the linkeage, installed the E-throttle actuator from a BMW S54 engine and turned down the diameter of the rear R brake rotors to 322mm, and now the calipers fit without adapters. Just a small 4mm spacer required.

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/xCGnXQkdM30" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>





 
This thing is unbelievable! I was suuuper excited to see an update for you Sander....and to think it's 700...

Keep it up!
 
E-throttle pedal

That does indeed make things easier. Do you have some pics of how you did the gas pedal setup in your car?

Used the E-throttle pedal from Hella with custom bracket.

fxKin2o.jpg
 
nice amazing craftmanship !!! Question. Where did you get the isolating gold foil ?
my converter is super close to the chassis and your idea will work superbly.
take care
DZ
 
This thing is unbelievable! I was suuuper excited to see an update for you Sander....and to think it's 700...

Keep it up!

Thanks! Progress is a bit slow at the moment, but there is some at least.

Sander.... How is progress? We're excited

Too slow, but getting some things done.

Used the E-throttle pedal from Hella with custom bracket.
Thanks, looks like an easy solution.

nice amazing craftmanship !!! Question. Where did you get the isolating gold foil ?
my converter is super close to the chassis and your idea will work superbly.
take care
DZ
Thank you! The gold foil is just some random stuff I found on Ebay. No idea how it'll hold up, but so far it seems to stick quite well.

Finally had time to do something on the car. Did a bunch of small stuff I kept postponing for no reason. Since it's still not really fully assembled, I thought I might as well just replace the timing chain and all the guides. Wasn't really necessary, but just for piece of mind. The plastic guides were 30 years old and the engine hasn't run for 8 years now. Cobbled together a crank blocking tool that blocks the flex plate to get the front pulley off.





I had to modify the valve passenger side valve cover, otherwise the intake plenums I'm planning to make won't fit. There's a big bump/breather thing in the way. I cut it off and welded the hole closed again. The only problem was that the valve covers on this engine are made out of magnesium. The 30 year old oil soaked cast magnesium was nigh impossible to weld due to the amount of outgassing from the casting when welding, making it super porous. By adding lots of filler (magnesium filler rods are expensive as hell) I got it together, but it wasn't pretty. At least my garage didn't burn to the ground in a bright white flash, so I call this a win. There aren't any loads on that part so it should be fine.











I also continued with the radiator. It still needed a connection for the expansion tank and the small bleed line thing too. Also installed an AC condenser out of a Renault Twingo. The stock one doesn't fit anymore as my radiator now sits much futher forward than stock. The Twingo one had the right size. I hope it isn't too small for the rest of the system, but we'll see. Made some brackets for the oil cooler too.











I also bought this turd a few months ago and getting it drivable and ready to pass tech inspection is taking a bit of my time too. I wanted an old pickup truck just to haul crap around and someone offered me this thing for next to nothing. It had been standing in a field for a year and pretty much every panel is eather dented or rusted, but mechanically it was in good shape. It has the towing capacity of 2 frozen chickens with its 90hp 4 cyl engine, but I'm not going to do any towing anyway. I'm still looking for 2 new front fenders, but since this model was never sold in Europe that seems pretty much impossible and they're too big for international shipping...



 
Last edited:
Spent the last month doing a bunch of small things. I finally got the intake pretty much done (except for the plenums) and bolted to the engine. I decided to cold blue all the linkeage arms I've made just because I like how that looks. Just have to oil it up a bit every once in a while against rust.









I?ve also cleaned the injectors and replaced all the replacable bits (filter, cap, O-rings and the spacer). 8 out of 12 were completely clogged up with varnish and other old fuel residues up to the point that they didn't even open anymore. Managed to get them all going again and clean. Quite a bit of crap came out.









The last part of the intake I needed to make was a bracket that would hold the ignition coils, to which the front part of the itbs bolts too. Like this, they're mounted rock solid and don't depend on the rubber connector to hold them in place. The coils I'm using are from a Honda Oddyssey. They fit perfectly, almost like they're made for this engine. The coils and plugs still can come out without unbolting the itbs. Just the velocity stacks (which later will be integrated in the plenums I'll make) need to come off.













All mounted for hopefully the last time. With the front plastic engine covers on it, it's a bit easier to see just how big this engine is:







 
Last edited:
Back
Top