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How to remove and install Ignition Cylinder, 92 240

92White240

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Mar 27, 2020
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pnw
Recently my ignition cylinder took a crap, wont let the key back out once put in and put anywhere past the first position. Ordered a new one and I know how It's fastened to the steering column, do I have the pull the column? How do I go about getting this new cylinder assembly in? Any input appreciated
 
Recently my ignition cylinder took a crap, wont let the key back out once put in and put anywhere past the first position. Ordered a new one and I know how It's fastened to the steering column, do I have the pull the column? How do I go about getting this new cylinder assembly in? Any input appreciated
Have you checked that it's not just the electrical switch attached to the cylinder? The internal "detent" spring-loaded ball bearing can sometimes wear a groove deep enough to jam the switch, which can feel like the cylinder part not turning.

It attaches to the cylinder with 2 screws, and looks like this:

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog...l-switch+&+relay,ignition+starter+switch,4700
BA2011874-1__ra_p.jpg



open.jpg
 
Replaced that a couple weeks ago

Then, there is a good chance that is what the problem is. Once you can turn the lock itself there is nothing else that stops it from turning, other than the switch. Remove the switch from the back of the lock and see if you can suddenly turn the lock easily the full travel. If you bought and MTC switch, those are pure garbage and do exactly what you describe. One that a customer bought and had me install for him lasted 2 cycles. The switch jammed the following day when he got to work.
 
If you bought and MTC switch, those are pure garbage and do exactly what you describe. One that a customer bought and had me install for him lasted 2 cycles. The switch jammed the following day when he got to work.

Yep, pure crap. My friend bought one from IPD and it jammed FOUR days later. One of my irritations about IPD is they don't disclose the manufacturer of parts most of the time.
 
If you bought and MTC switch, those are pure garbage and do exactly what you describe. One that a customer bought and had me install for him lasted 2 cycles. The switch jammed the following day when he got to work.

Yep, pure crap. My friend bought one from IPD and it jammed FOUR days later.

I guess I was "lucky".
July 2014 - replaced with MTC
May 2015 - replaced with MTC
Aug 2015 - splurged on OEM
No problems since.
 
Yep, pure crap. My friend bought one from IPD and it jammed FOUR days later. One of my irritations about IPD is they don't disclose the manufacturer of parts most of the time.

That, and the fact that they continue to sell garbage that they know is highly likely to fail and cost their customers lost time and money. There is no way I could sell someone one of those switches with a clear conscience.
 
Then, there is a good chance that is what the problem is. Once you can turn the lock itself there is nothing else that stops it from turning, other than the switch. Remove the switch from the back of the lock and see if you can suddenly turn the lock easily the full travel. If you bought and MTC switch, those are pure garbage and do exactly what you describe. One that a customer bought and had me install for him lasted 2 cycles. The switch jammed the following day when he got to work.

Wasn't aware of this, damn. I did buy the MTC one. I've already bought a new OEM cylinder assembly, luckily it is coming with and OEM switch, which I've seen at 90$ at the cheapest, and I paid 100$ for the whole assembly, so not terrible I guess
 
The OEM switch is ~ $140 these days. You did fine.

good to know, might just replace the whole thing if it's not terribly hard anyway, my key was bent pretty good, doesn't quite inspire confidence in the condition of the actual lock assembly
 
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