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T5 trans swap shifting issue?

sideways242

New member
Joined
Nov 3, 2017
Location
Sacramento
Hello all,

I recently purchased a rebuilt t5 for my 1984 242 after my last one decided to say bye-bye to its synchros. I am using a yoshifab stage 3 clutch kit with under 100 miles on it, as well as a resurfaced and lightened flywheel. When replacing the transmission I decided to order a new throwout bearing just because the trans was out of the car. When I took the car for a test drive today it wouldn't go into some of the gears at all. At first, I thought maybe I put too little fluid in but remembered I filled the trans until it poured out of the fill plug. I haven't run into this problem before, and it's especially weird because the transmission shifts smooth as butter when the car is off and the clutch is depressed. I appreciate any insight and hope everyone is safe. Thanks!
 
Hello all,

I recently purchased a rebuilt t5 for my 1984 242 after my last one decided to say bye-bye to its synchros. I am using a yoshifab stage 3 clutch kit with under 100 miles on it, as well as a resurfaced and lightened flywheel. When replacing the transmission I decided to order a new throwout bearing just because the trans was out of the car. When I took the car for a test drive today it wouldn't go into some of the gears at all. At first, I thought maybe I put too little fluid in but remembered I filled the trans until it poured out of the fill plug. I haven't run into this problem before, and it's especially weird because the transmission shifts smooth as butter when the car is off and the clutch is depressed. I appreciate any insight and hope everyone is safe. Thanks!

Is the clutch cable adjusted right? Nothing catching on the shifter or linkage?

I remember an issue like this with my M47 when I first did the swap from an auto. The clutch cable had way too much play and it didn't want to go into any gear but 1st and 3rd.
 
Is the clutch cable adjusted right? Nothing catching on the shifter or linkage?

I remember an issue like this with my M47 when I first did the swap from an auto. The clutch cable had way too much play and it didn't want to go into any gear but 1st and 3rd.

the clutch cable feels good to me, but it is new so lord knows I could have it out of wack. is there anything else to take into consideration other than tightening the cable until you get it where it's comfortable? thanks!
 
Without the car running, put it in 1st gear push the clutch in and have someone try to push the car. This should tell you if you are getting clutch disengagement. If you are then there could be something wrong with the T5?
 
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Pretty common to have performance clutches lock up from sitting, especially kevlar faced ones. Do as mentioned above. You can also place it in gear, push in clutch, and then bump the starter. Just make sure you're not going to hit a wall if it starts or moves.
 
Without the car running, put it in 1st gear push the clutch in and have someone try to push the car. This should tell you if you are getting clutch disengagement. If you are then there could be something wrong with the T5?

I did this and the clutch seems to be working just fine. I drove the car down the street and it randomly won't go into gear but it's weird and picky. For example, I went from 1st to 2nd, and when it wouldn't go into 3rd I went back to 2nd and then it went into 3rd smooth.
 
Does it grind when you try to shift into a locked out gear or you just feel dead resistance in the shifter? If there is no grinding my money is on the selector assembly in the lid of the transmission being assembled incorrectly.
 
Does it grind when you try to shift into a locked out gear or you just feel dead resistance in the shifter? If there is no grinding my money is on the selector assembly in the lid of the transmission being assembled incorrectly.

It doesn't grind at all when going into gear, it just feels completely locked out at times. When the car is off it feels to shift smoothly.
 
If you crawl under the car, how much slack can you pull out of the cable if you just pull on the end of it? Can you pull the clutch fork towards the rear of the car at all?
It needs like 2-3mm on some clutches.

Some clutch pedals have a spring that pushes the pedal towards the firewall, some have one that pulls it away. Depends on the year.
 
The symptoms indicate a problem with the pilot bearing to me. Either the bearing is seizing or the input shaft is forcing the bearing forward. I've heard some T5 input shafts need to be trimmed.
 
The symptoms indicate a problem with the pilot bearing to me. Either the bearing is seizing or the input shaft is forcing the bearing forward. I've heard some T5 input shafts need to be trimmed.

hmmm I double-checked that this T5 had the same length input as the last one. I also replaced the pilot bearing within the last 50 miles...
 
The symptoms indicate a problem with the pilot bearing to me. Either the bearing is seizing or the input shaft is forcing the bearing forward. I've heard some T5 input shafts need to be trimmed.

Im going to pull the transmission tomorrow and report back. I really hope its something small like the pilot bearing!
 
If you crawl under the car, how much slack can you pull out of the cable if you just pull on the end of it? Can you pull the clutch fork towards the rear of the car at all?
It needs like 2-3mm on some clutches.

Some clutch pedals have a spring that pushes the pedal towards the firewall, some have one that pulls it away. Depends on the year.

clutch cable feels pretty tight, not much travel at all. I didn't adjust the clutch at all since I threw a new t5 on the bell housing without taking it off. weird one...
 
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It looks like the front portion of the bearing retainer is bent in a little. Would this cause any shifting issues? It's in no way touching any moving parts and the transmission sits flush without any extra force to get in into the pilot bearing.
 
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