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Zerk fittings on polyurethane trailing arm bushings

mattd1205

mattd1205

Member
Joined
Dec 5, 2014
Location
Harbor City, CA
I just got some new super pro poly trailing arm bushings for my 240 wagon. I found out that they need to be greased regularly to keep them from squeaking. I'm fine with that provided I can do so without disassembling the car every time it needs to be done. I would like to put some zerk fittings in there somehow but don't really see any way to get them threaded in there as the sleeve is very thin. Do I cut a a channel into the bushing so a nut and some locktite can be used to secure it? I don't have access to a welder or have the knowledge to do so. Has anybody done this on a TAB?

Thanks in advance
Matt
 
The zerk doesn't need a whole lot of metal to grab on to. The shell of the bushing should be more than adequate to hold it in there. I machined delrin bushings for the front control arms on my 240 and added zerks, I just pump a bit of grease in there now and then and I've never had an issue. I also took a die grinder and made a shallow slot on the ID of the bushings to help the grease distribute evenly, this can also be accomplished with a ~1/4" diameter round file.
 
IME, the grease that most poly bushing manufacturers include with their products is crap. It's not very sticky or water resistant and will wash off or squeeze out in a short time. The stuff that IPD gives you with their poly bushings is the shizz. It sticks to everything and is water proof. I've never needed to re-grease anything I used this stuff on.

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hiperfauto said:
IME, the grease that most poly bushing manufacturers include with their products is crap. It's not very sticky or water resistant and will wash off or squeeze out in a short time. The stuff that IPD gives you with their poly bushings is the shizz. It sticks to everything and is water proof. I've never needed to re-grease anything I used this stuff on.

fullsize_5629.jpg
Click to expand...


Aqua Lube of KY... Kentucky that is
 
Ian is right on the grease, though the current gen stuff Superpro sends is pretty legit stuff. They had the red stuff years ago that was god-awful when you tried to wipe your hands off, but that stuff never squeaked. They went to the white grease that was utterly worthless after 4-6 months, then finally went to the clear they have now that's good. Still not quite like that Aqua Lube stuff though.
 
lummert said:
I use CV-joint grease for many purposes. Available in a packet at most parts stores for about $2.
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molybdenum disulfide? I get large cans of it (last one was branded ARP) from the engine supply places. I think you can get it in a grease gun tube, too. I use it on sway bar bushings. (and cams and stuff)
 
classicswede said:
what I do is weld a nut on for the grease nipple
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Ding! This is what I was going to suggest. Drill a hole...not a huge one, just a hole in the middle, so grease can go between the two halves. Weld a nut on, over the hole, for the zerk fitting to thread into.

But I also agree...I've never needed to regrease after using "the good stuff"...
 
hiperfauto said:
IME, the grease that most poly bushing manufacturers include with their products is crap. It's not very sticky or water resistant and will wash off or squeeze out in a short time. The stuff that IPD gives you with their poly bushings is the shizz. It sticks to everything and is water proof. I've never needed to re-grease anything I used this stuff on.

fullsize_5629.jpg
Click to expand...

mikep said:
molybdenum disulfide? I get large cans of it (last one was branded ARP) from the engine supply places. I think you can get it in a grease gun tube, too. I use it on sway bar bushings. (and cams and stuff)
Click to expand...

That stuff is awesome, but a word of the wise....use gloves when applying GMD...It is a known carcinogen. We use basically the same stuff to lubricate our 25mm Bushmaster chain guns in our Bradleys. Basically the only stuff that can get that off is brakleen or a heavy duty degreaser.
It never hurts to add zerks to chassis points. I am still planning on doing that to my front control arms and rear control arms(when I get around to them).
 
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