The harness bar isn't for side impact protection.
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242 2.3L Ecoboost 6spd Swap **Picture Heavy**
- Thread starter jstblz
- Start date
The harness bar isn't for side impact protection.
Exhaust sounds!! w/ electric cut out.
aidanahunter
Member
- Joined
- Jul 8, 2018
- Location
- Bozeman, MT
This is absolutely fantastic!
patrickstar
Member
- Joined
- Feb 1, 2015
- Location
- Vancouver, Washington
Thanks!
In a Volvo, it sounds incredible. If I heard it from a Mustang, I'd think "no V8"
I agree on both points! I only did the cut-out because I want to be a good neighbor and for the neighborhoods I need to be quiet through.
adomz
I own!
- Joined
- Feb 9, 2010
- Location
- Lost in Wales...
Great build! Ass said on Youtube, keep up a good work! 
ADam - boosted242
ADam - boosted242
Jerd
Active member
- Joined
- Mar 1, 2008
- Location
- Vancouver WA
I like this build a lot.
Thank you!
So a quick update...
Got the car back to my house and out of my friend's shop.
Keeping it real festive...
A ground clearance shot of the exhaust and the trans x-member. I think I'll be raising the front up .5-1".
UP NEXT:
- fix the clutch (That will be my next post)
- finish the interior wiring
- get the windows in
- install the interior panels
- Joined
- Mar 19, 2003
- Location
- Denver, CO
Awesome! This is a very cool build.
- Joined
- May 27, 2008
- Location
- Rockland County, NY
Very nice work! lots of nice details & touches to the build.
Curious what the fuse box came from that you used under the hood - most of the ones I've had access to don't flush mount, so hard to take advantage of. Was it original to the Mustang?
Only details I would question are the ****ty American style worm clamps & the butt splices in your wiring
Curious what the fuse box came from that you used under the hood - most of the ones I've had access to don't flush mount, so hard to take advantage of. Was it original to the Mustang?
Only details I would question are the ****ty American style worm clamps & the butt splices in your wiring
patrickstar
Member
- Joined
- Feb 1, 2015
- Location
- Vancouver, Washington
Very nice work! lots of nice details & touches to the build.
Curious what the fuse box came from that you used under the hood - most of the ones I've had access to don't flush mount, so hard to take advantage of. Was it original to the Mustang?
Only details I would question are the ****ty American style worm clamps & the butt splices in your wiring
Butt splices are the way for auto wiring
Very nice work! lots of nice details & touches to the build.
Curious what the fuse box came from that you used under the hood - most of the ones I've had access to don't flush mount, so hard to take advantage of. Was it original to the Mustang?
Only details I would question are the ****ty American style worm clamps & the butt splices in your wiring
The underhood fusebox is from the ford performance kit. I couldn't find a part number in on their site. Sorry.
I've always used adhesive heat shrink connectors or heat shrink over quality normal connectors on vehicles. Use a proper racheting crimp tool and wire fatigue from vibration or over-heating the wire is a non-issue with the added bonus of being faster.
So today is the 1st day I really drove the car properly granted it was only a total of about 20ft out of and into the garage. Thankfully, the brakes work well. This car will be a problem. 
Woot.
The reason today was the 1st day was because I wasn't getting enough fluid movement to disengage the clutch while the car was running. The throwout bearing on the MT-82 has no port for pulling vacuum or power filing the clutch system so you have to expel the air on the bench manually.
This video shows the process.
How To: Bleed a Hydraulic Throwout Bearing
After that was bled, I connected the hose from the master and after bleeding that line I ended up with a small leak. I double clamped this line, got better pressure and pedal feel, but not enough movement to work.
My initial setup was a 10mm 90* banjo to 3AN male > 3AN female to 1/4" hose barb > 1/4" clutch line (supposedly) > the original late style quick connect that was in the mustang.
This black sludge is why I said supposedly. This was new fluid with zero heat cycling. I also felt like the hose expanded a lot.
It has been replaced with a 10mm 90* banjo to 3AN male > 3AN female to 3AN female PVC coated stainless steel hose > 3AN male to 4AN female > 4AN to late style clutch adapter
Since the transmission side is a quick connect, I connected and tightened the master cylinder side of the hose, filled the reservoir, and pulled vacuum to fill the line and then pinched off the hose and fed it down to the trans.
Popped in the connector and cleaned up the little bit of spilled fluid. Back up top, I made a tool to pull vacuum on the reservoir with a spare cap. Pumped to 19" for a minute, release the pressure, and hand pumped the clutch. INSTANTLY better feel. I did that process 3x just to be sure.
Woot.
The reason today was the 1st day was because I wasn't getting enough fluid movement to disengage the clutch while the car was running. The throwout bearing on the MT-82 has no port for pulling vacuum or power filing the clutch system so you have to expel the air on the bench manually.
This video shows the process.
How To: Bleed a Hydraulic Throwout Bearing
After that was bled, I connected the hose from the master and after bleeding that line I ended up with a small leak. I double clamped this line, got better pressure and pedal feel, but not enough movement to work.
My initial setup was a 10mm 90* banjo to 3AN male > 3AN female to 1/4" hose barb > 1/4" clutch line (supposedly) > the original late style quick connect that was in the mustang.
This black sludge is why I said supposedly. This was new fluid with zero heat cycling. I also felt like the hose expanded a lot.
It has been replaced with a 10mm 90* banjo to 3AN male > 3AN female to 3AN female PVC coated stainless steel hose > 3AN male to 4AN female > 4AN to late style clutch adapter
Since the transmission side is a quick connect, I connected and tightened the master cylinder side of the hose, filled the reservoir, and pulled vacuum to fill the line and then pinched off the hose and fed it down to the trans.
Popped in the connector and cleaned up the little bit of spilled fluid. Back up top, I made a tool to pull vacuum on the reservoir with a spare cap. Pumped to 19" for a minute, release the pressure, and hand pumped the clutch. INSTANTLY better feel. I did that process 3x just to be sure.
Last edited:
This is the super important locking clip for the high pressure fuel pump connection...
...so of course, I broke it immediately.
Thanks to the internet, I can just print another
What a time to be alive!
If you don't know, Thingiverse is a repository for 3D printer files. The file can be found here: fuel line clip
This was printed in Apollo X ASA for its high heat resistance (compared to PLA) properties.
...so of course, I broke it immediately.
Thanks to the internet, I can just print another
What a time to be alive!If you don't know, Thingiverse is a repository for 3D printer files. The file can be found here: fuel line clip
This was printed in Apollo X ASA for its high heat resistance (compared to PLA) properties.
dbarton
Dejected by Volvo Corp.
- Joined
- Nov 17, 2002
- Location
- Prosper, TX
Not sure if I missed it. Are you planning to use the stock ecu tune or have you looked into a way to tune it? I use the Cobb Accessport for my Subaru and I know they have one for the 2.3 EcoBoost ECU, specifically designed for crate motor swaps.
https://www.cobbtuning.com/products/accessport/accessport-for-ford-performance-ecoboost-ecu
Dave B
https://www.cobbtuning.com/products/accessport/accessport-for-ford-performance-ecoboost-ecu
Dave B
- Joined
- May 27, 2008
- Location
- Rockland County, NY
"Ford Performance Kit" - as a part of the Mustang package? Or you mean Aftermarket sales? Sorry, I'm confused.
I understand - in the pic it looked like standard butt-splices, not the heat shrink variety - sorry.
Nice work on the clutch line issues. I din't know one could buy that clutch line end _ cut & silver soldered one for my Volvo-master-into-X1/9 setup
I'm not sure yet. I'm going to definitely get it tuned so I can make the most out of the bigger wastegate spring, big intercooler, big exhaust and intake, running 93 octane, and colder spark plugs. A friend has HP Tuners and they support the Ford Performance kit it so I think I'd like to find someone to tune it with that instead of having to buy the accessport ($630ish last I looked) and then have someone tune it.
"Ford Performance Kit" - as a part of the Mustang package? Or you mean Aftermarket sales? Sorry, I'm confused.
I understand - in the pic it looked like standard butt-splices, not the heat shrink variety - sorry.
Nice work on the clutch line issues. I didn't know one could buy that clutch line end _ cut & silver soldered one for my Volvo-master-into-X1/9 setup
https://performanceparts.ford.com/part/M-6017-23T - The kit
All good! I swear that clutch line connector is newer. I didn't see it last winter when I was researching for the failed clutch setup. Your setup looks cool!