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tfrasca's 142 Turbo Project

Maybe. Did you figure out why josh?s mounts didnt hold the motor quite right??

The mounts that I didn't like were the adapters he used to sell. Now he makes a full-on mount bracket that I think fits really well. I just didn't use them because I made my own.
 
Still chipping away at this thing, 20 minutes at a time between baby's naps.

I adapted the brake booster bracket (shortened slightly and made a new flange) to fit the 7" booster. I'll have to shorten the threaded rod from the pedal to the booster.

3VjL9gi.jpg


9Vtvazf.jpg


The stock 140 booster has 3.25" bolt spacing for the master. This new booster has 3 3/8" spacing. I was able to enlarge the holes on the Volvo master, but I don't feel great about the amount of material left.

Finding a new master cylinder with the proper bolt spacing and the right bore is probably the right call.
 
Still chipping away at this thing, 20 minutes at a time between baby's naps.

I adapted the brake booster bracket (shortened slightly and made a new flange) to fit the 7" booster. I'll have to shorten the threaded rod from the pedal to the booster.

The stock 140 booster has 3.25" bolt spacing for the master. This new booster has 3 3/8" spacing. I was able to enlarge the holes on the Volvo master, but I don't feel great about the amount of material left.

Finding a new master cylinder with the proper bolt spacing and the right bore is probably the right call.

Is the original master cylinder cast iron or steel? Let us know what unit you choose. I'm pretty much ready to fix my 142 and this may be a far more reasonable and reliable solution than rebuilding the original unit.
 
Is the original master cylinder cast iron or steel? Let us know what unit you choose. I'm pretty much ready to fix my 142 and this may be a far more reasonable and reliable solution than rebuilding the original unit.

Stock MC is cast iron. I've been looking for a suitable replacement with the right bolt spacing for the new booster and have yet to find anything, other than a $300 Wilwood. What are you trying to fix with your brakes? I have a nearly new booster that I bought from hiperfauto last year...
 
Stock MC is cast iron. I've been looking for a suitable replacement with the right bolt spacing for the new booster and have yet to find anything, other than a $300 Wilwood. What are you trying to fix with your brakes? I have a nearly new booster that I bought from hiperfauto last year...

My booster is leaking REAL bad.
I?ll send you a PM
 
Welp, I thought I was making progress with the Cosworth intake manifold. I was under the impression that it just needed a Volvo flange welded on, and everything would line up. I started cutting out a flange and decided to check that. The port spacing on the Volvo head is way wider than the Cosworth. Widening the manifold in the middle would help a little, but ideally each runner would get material added between them.

So now I'm looking at the feasibility of that vs. building one from scratch. So dumb.

E8M7XnU.jpg
 
What about just using a shortened Volvo intake? Still not short enough?

I have a shortened one here (for a 240) and it's not even close. I could take another inch or so out of the runners, but even then I don't think it'll fit and the TB position would have to be moved still. Figured I could do something else and sell the shortened Volvo manifold to a 240 person.

Or make a new plenum flange and weld Volvo runners to it

Yeah, maybe. I'd want to have velocity stacks sticking into the plenum like on the Cosworth manifold though, which would be tricky with the oval Volvo runners. The Cosworth one is nice because the transition from oval to round stacks is in the casting.
 
I missed the bit about the Cosworth manifold. Which engine is it from, a YB? Sierra or Escort?

Curious what the goal is with adapting it to the 16V Redblock. What does it offer, other than not having to make the whole thing from scratch (which may still be simpler)?
 
I missed the bit about the Cosworth manifold. Which engine is it from, a YB? Sierra or Escort?

Curious what the goal is with adapting it to the 16V Redblock. What does it offer, other than not having to make the whole thing from scratch (which may still be simpler)?

That's it, just didn't want to make a new one from scratch. The scales are tipping as I find more issues with the Cosworth manifold, though.

The thing I like about it is how the cast velocity stacks/runners allow for such a tight plenum. As usual, brake booster clearance is the issue, even with the new 7" booster.

Assuming I could flatten round tubing into appropriately shaped ovals, I could basically replicate this manifold rather than trying to adapt it. That's starting to look like the thing to do. Oh, and I would need to find aluminum velocity stacks, because I really don't want to make them like I did for the 8 valve.

edit: the manifold is from a YB Sierra, as far as I know.
 
Assuming I could flatten round tubing into appropriately shaped ovals, I could basically replicate this manifold rather than trying to adapt it. That's starting to look like the thing to do. Oh, and I would need to find aluminum velocity stacks, because I really don't want to make them like I did for the 8 valve.

Xcessive Manufacturing carries a lot of DIY parts for intakes. You could probably piece enough bits together to make it work out.

https://xcessivemanufacturing.com/replacement-hardware/intake-parts/runners-and-velocity-stacks.html

I'll probably end up using their parts the next time I need to build an intake.
 
Xcessive Manufacturing carries a lot of DIY parts for intakes. You could probably piece enough bits together to make it work out.

https://xcessivemanufacturing.com/replacement-hardware/intake-parts/runners-and-velocity-stacks.html

I'll probably end up using their parts the next time I need to build an intake.

REALLY good to know, thanks. I'd been looking mostly at Ross Machine Racing and not finding exactly what I need. Also, seeing those cast stacks makes me realize I can just cut the stacks off my already hacked up Cosworth manifold!
 
+1 on Xcessive. A friend just received an order for a custom intake going on his Beams swapped 77 celica, flanges, molded stacks, base plate, runners, they all look fantastic and should allow for easy fabrication.
 
+1 on Xcessive. A friend just received an order for a custom intake going on his Beams swapped 77 celica, flanges, molded stacks, base plate, runners, they all look fantastic and should allow for easy fabrication.

I really do like all the RWD celicas. Would love to put a Volvo five cyl in one.
 
That's it, just didn't want to make a new one from scratch. The scales are tipping as I find more issues with the Cosworth manifold, though.

The thing I like about it is how the cast velocity stacks/runners allow for such a tight plenum. As usual, brake booster clearance is the issue, even with the new 7" booster.

Assuming I could flatten round tubing into appropriately shaped ovals, I could basically replicate this manifold rather than trying to adapt it. That's starting to look like the thing to do. Oh, and I would need to find aluminum velocity stacks, because I really don't want to make them like I did for the 8 valve.

edit: the manifold is from a YB Sierra, as far as I know.

Cool. Well at least you have something to reverse engineer now, on the bright side.

Is there any room to do curved runners and move the plenum upwards, keeping it closer to the head but living above the ports? This might help with your booster clearance issue, and would also be a big benefit in terms of pulse tuning, with longer runners giving you a much less peaky behavior.

Corollary to the above, if you keep the runners straight, how long could they be from the tip of the trumpet to the back face of the intake valves (approximately)?
 
Cool. Well at least you have something to reverse engineer now, on the bright side.

Is there any room to do curved runners and move the plenum upwards, keeping it closer to the head but living above the ports? This might help with your booster clearance issue, and would also be a big benefit in terms of pulse tuning, with longer runners giving you a much less peaky behavior.

Corollary to the above, if you keep the runners straight, how long could they be from the tip of the trumpet to the back face of the intake valves (approximately)?

Re: the curved runners, that's how I got decent runner lengths on my 8 valve manifold. Plenum was up above the ports, and it worked well since I didn't need room for injectors and fuel rail on the manifold (they were in the head). Now I'll need to make room for injectors in the manifold, so moving the plenum up and toward the head (away from the booster) is a trickier proposition.

The runners are admittedly on the short side with the Cosworth design, and those curve DOWN slightly, which adds maybe 10-15mm to the length. If I tried to recreate it with straight runners, the distance from velocity stack to flange would probably be 6" or less.

I went way down the rabbit hole on intake runner length last time, and I think I was able find a decent compromise with the last manifold. This time, with less room, I will need to make concessions. The plus side about shorter runners, is that I wouldn't mind revving this thing out. 8k with lighter pistons and rods seems reasonable, and my new turbine housing should flow up there. So maybe if the manifold ends up with short runners, I look at some cams and fueling to support a higher revving, less-of-a-torque-monster engine.
 
The runners are admittedly on the short side with the Cosworth design, and those curve DOWN slightly, which adds maybe 10-15mm to the length. If I tried to recreate it with straight runners, the distance from velocity stack to flange would probably be 6" or less.

I went way down the rabbit hole on intake runner length last time, and I think I was able find a decent compromise with the last manifold. This time, with less room, I will need to make concessions. The plus side about shorter runners, is that I wouldn't mind revving this thing out. 8k with lighter pistons and rods seems reasonable, and my new turbine housing should flow up there. So maybe if the manifold ends up with short runners, I look at some cams and fueling to support a higher revving, less-of-a-torque-monster engine.

If you want to go down a deeper rabbit hole, check out the Induction article at Grape Ape Racing. Build some spreadsheets, and go to town. If you understand the assumptions made, and Helmholtz resonators, you can make some pretty accurate intakes.

https://grapeaperacing.weebly.com/technical-articles.html
 
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