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LH2.2 Tuning For Non-Volvo Installation / X1/9 Dallara + K24 Swap

Finally resolved all my idle & throttle tip-in/part throttle weirdness. The problem all along has been the aftermarket IACV, somehow backfeeding the system in ****ed up ways. New Honda-packaged IACV resolved all that

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Just have to tidy up the wiring

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Cut up a C30 splash shield & used it as protective plate

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Minor seepage at one of my heater line fittings, fixed that

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Took it for a very short burst

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Moved on to the finishing work on the body - this type body came with stripes like this:

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Made templates for the decals

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Applying the film is a PITA!

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Adding the upper pin striping

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Took it out so I could see it in natural light

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Still have to do the rear sections, and right side fenders

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Reworked the nose decal so that the spacing is even with the hood line

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Colors match the fire hydrant nicely, I noticed

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added xpel film under the rear ducts - already getting stone chips in those panels

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Made lexan HL covers - the original looked like this:

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template - since my nose line is more angular, I added the contour

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cut the lexan, creased in a vice with heatgun

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will fit thus:

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Made "L" brackets with m4 rivnuts

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brackets riveted

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Positioned the lexan then drilled the screw holes

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After that I chopped an inch off the 960 lip I had added to the fibreglass spoiler

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I had added it to level out the waves in the fibreglass, but it ended up being too visually heavy/weighted

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After that I made the templates for the lettering that goes on the doors of the original version. Have to find a place that will print/cut them from a red vinyl that is close to body color (Volvo Passion Red)

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Then I added a very then stripe to the spoiler lip, mainly to protect the painted edge from chipping after the cut

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To balance it, I added the same to the rear valance

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Finally, I had to redo the high side hose from the compressor to the underbody line. I had made metal lines for that, with a junction for the Fiat Clutch cut off switch, however I found my welds were seeping

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So I made a one-piece line using reduced barrier #8 hose & crimped the fittings in-situ. Since it runs through a tube I set into the frame rail, it would now need to be cut for removal. It's not in the way of anything so that should not be an issue down the road.

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secured to the inner fender

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Last thing there was to add the Volvo/GM AC clutch (1259519) switch to the accumulator to replace the Fiat version I had in the high side line

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impressive work as usual.

Thank you - I'm happy with it overall.

Finally found a place that will cut the lettering in 3M vinyl, vs. printing, which is what all the local shops want to do, with no consideration for color matching.

In the mean time, I ordered a pair of another vinyl sticker that will go along the duct stripes like this:

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3M vinyl lettering finally came in, and it was a sunny warm day (for a change), so I got the lettering installed.

Went easier than I was expecting - has a nice firm transfer sheet that keeps the lettering positioned

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3M 'Dark Red' scotchcal film. Matches the Volvo red reasonably well

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I'm happy :D

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Won't be bringing the X1/9 to Carlisle :(

Had a little off-road excursion a week ago - right after finally resolving the part throttle/tip in jerky drivability issues

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That sucks, I ripped the same corner off the front of my 780 a couple weeks ago but that was just backing up from an off road parking spot. I'm sure you'll have it sorted out quickly.
 
Thanks, guys. I'm reasonably confident the motor is fine, I'll know once the oil pan is swapped.

Started on the nose. Chopped off a couple inches to get beyond the worst cracks

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Took an S40 rear bumper cover

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chopped off the top

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sectioned the cover, and angled it to match nose, about 12?

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Cut the grille surround off what was left of the fiberglass spoiler.

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All that will be bonded together & merged into the fenders. Along with fibreglass panels around the headlamps back into the fenders

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The underside will have some reinforcement, just to keep the contour from dropping

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Plugging away at the nose repair. Got the sheet metal HL cover panels welded & filled. Worked on the nose / fender / grille transitins to get it all to flow nicely with the chopped version. S40 bumper section is going to work just fine for the spoiler.

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The spoiler/grille surround will be removable, so I need to figure out the mounting for the inner verticals, and make separate headlamp framing that is attached to the frame instead of to the grille surround as it was previously.

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Subframe section has been completed & shipped out yesterday, so I can get on to the motor work soon

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More back & forth (add material/remove material) on the nose & headlamp 'bucket' areas. Ideally, the surrounds should look similar to this:

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The difficulty is in getting the interpretation of the inner vertical 'scallop' - my center panel is not the same as the original - I don't have the setback & taper that matches - mine is vertical drop, then chamfer - so my version is to be an interpretation of the original.

I adjusted my headlamp housing support system

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to offset the entire assembly about an inch rearward, so that it will sit with a slight recess at the outer lower corner, the shallowest point.

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There will be filler panels on all four sides to create the 'bucket'

Lower ones have been added here, along with tie plates to merge the fender skirt wrap below the marker lamp aperture in the the vertical grille surround.

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I also need to reshape the headlamp cover areas, hence the additional bondo on top

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Overall, I think the simplified form will look good.

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Original modified fibreglass panel work back in 2016. Plan is eliminating all those hard corners around the headlamps & markers

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Working on getting that inner radius - hopefully without cutting further inboard - that will make attaching the (removable) spoiler & grille surround more difficult. I think I will be able to create enough of a visual taper & contour to the 'bucket' with some addtional fibreglass & bondo work. Just time consuming getting L & R evenly shaped, since this is all eyeballed. I did make small contour guide plates to test general conformity, but it still comes down to does it look 'right'.

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Wrapped up the nose for right now - and moved on to the mechanical work needed to get it running. Dropped the subframe, swapped the oil pan, tack welded the replacemnt subframe section & took the car out for a drive for the first time in 3 monnths!

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replacement, and new brake line I had to fabricate to replace the one crushed

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Also painted/dyed the canvas targa panel

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Looks really good from this angle :D

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This is simply OUTSTANDING! I mean, I consider myself pretty good at the mech/electrical part of building a car...but the artistry and craftsmanship around custom bodywork is something I'll never figure out. This makes me look twice at any X1/9 for sale :).
 
This is simply OUTSTANDING! I mean, I consider myself pretty good at the mech/electrical part of building a car...but the artistry and craftsmanship around custom bodywork is something I'll never figure out. This makes me look twice at any X1/9 for sale :).

Many thanks! It's been quite an experience, for sure. Bodywork is definitely not my thing.

Been working on my house, so not much done on the X1/9. Today I made time to start on the 72mm TB revision. Using the 80mm TB, I've had a tip-in drivability issues that came back again.

Chopped the flange off an Accord intake for the TB side, another flange off an RSX intake for the intake side. I don't want to weld the extension to the plenum, as it may interfere with the plenum removal .

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flanges welded after I determined the correct orientation to ensure bobbin & TPS clearance

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MAP will go on the adaptor - have to weld a bung

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Hopefully finish this tomorrow
 
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Got the MAP bung figured out. Drilled & tapped the flange to use for the hold-down

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Revised the supplied bracket so that it fits the reverse orientation I need

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Used the 80mm setup to check offset

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Everything looks pretty good

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Have to figure out an alternative air filter hose

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Got everything sorted out in terms of fitment, however the TPS won't zero

TB adaptor finished.

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even with TPS pushed to end of range, I still have 30% in software

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I did have the TPS + - (pins 1 & 3) reversed, which set a CEL

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so I reversed them

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If I move the TPS out of the mount window, then I can get to zero

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What I found is that the TPS I bought, is NOT intended for the RSX Type S, & judging from online pics, the inner "wheel" is set at a different offset, so that would explain why I can't get it to the proper base idle position.
 
So you went smaller on the TB? I'm not clear after reading.... just a few sips of java so far today.

If YES, that matches what I've read about the large TBs working great at WOT conditions, but terribly off idle and stop & go driving. Sorry about the body work.... I used to do it decades ago. No more.
 
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