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Honestly, when I saw your pics of that trigger wheel, I didn't think it would work, but I wanted to be wrong!
Will 2.4 work with anything but a 60-2 wheel!?
labscope will tell you what your crank signal looks like. $80-$20,000
I think I may buy this one.
http://www.aeswave.com/uScope-Basic-Kit-with-Free-Adapter-p9275.html
I bought a cheap USB scope on ebay to check readings like this. Well worth it when it comes to troubleshooting cam/crank sensors and others.
how does your trigger wheel stack up (in terms of thickness and tooth spacing) to a bmw 60-2? a number of those cars used balancer mounted trigger wheels back in the day.
Also, have you considered using a different pickup sensor? some of the MS guys switch to a hyundai sensor to clean up issues.
If you have even a basic scope available, you can scope the output from the filter circuit on the ezk box, check the buchka spark thread for the specific location. you might even be able to just make a basic led tester to see if it's doing anything at all.
Thanks for the input - I haven't compared my EDIS wheel to others - it has the 3 degree gap / 6 degree tooth+gap spacing, so I would expect it to be correct that way.
I do need to first determine if I have any kind of a pulse - it doesn't seem like I do, since the OBD diagnostic for EZK116 does provide a code when a signal is present & accounted for by the ECU.
Since it produces a AC voltage signal, one would think that a multi meter that can read millivolts should pickup activity? I just need to verify that I have a pulse before I look any further at the rest of the system. No spark, no fuel, in that order.
Something like this, Justus?
"Hantek 6022BE PC-Based USB Digital Storage Oscilloscope 2 Channels 20MHz 48MSa/s" - around $60 on eBay....
We'll if your getting a constant flashing from your code reader, that is not good. You need to fix that first.What hole are you putting the code reader into to read? You put it in number 2 or number 6. One is the EZK the other is the ECU.
I'd say your wiring needs to be fixed. I wouldn't worry about the crank sensor, the looks good. You have a wiring problem or some other problem. The OBD code reader needs to flash one, one, one right off the bat when you first hook it up. If you hook up the power and it isn't, then wiring problem or bad sensor or bad ECU or EZK.
I'd check the grounds... On a volvo lh2.4 car with the 240 harness the grounds are all at the intake manifold fuel rail.
Is your ECU grounded on it's ground pins?
Also you don't need any of these connections for LH2.4 to run the motor...
Isn't your trigger wheel the opposite of what ezk is looking for?
Try reversing the polarity of the sensor.