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Group A spring rate questions

its already pretty damn stiff, to the point where i can deffinetly feel a bit of skittering through highspeed corners in the front
Well:
To add to that i have the koni single adjustable all 4 corners and righr bow my rebound damping is cranked to the max, how would adjustinf that help me
Having the maximum stiffness on your shocks can in theory do that to you if they’re too stiff for the setup.

Try the softest setting then gradually work your way up from there to see how things feel. Or go to a middle setting.

Report back and let us know how it leaves ya.

Another note, what may be your main problem is 300lb fronts are not very stiff, really, especially if on Extreme performance tires and a low ride height. I’d think you want at least 400 or 450lb springs up front. The car will maybe even ride better if your real problem is running out of suspension travel for any reason(coil bind or bump stops, both of which will cause the complaint you have).
 
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Okay so in relation to messing with the front roll centre,how could one bring it up higher off the ground past what bens rc correctors (which i have) are already doing, and has anyone done a watts link in the rear,what would be the disadvantages to a watts link vs stock if any?

the disadvantage is installation. you can change rear roll center with an adjustable panhard mount on the rear end and (if needed) drilling an extra hole in the mount on the body.
 
I think I understand roll center now for the first time.

Possibly unrelated question. Assuming the car has dampers that can handle it, how well does said car with 500lb front springs handle on the street with daily driving duties or is this limited to a track car?
 
Has anyone compared just how different the car handles when properly stitch-welded and caged?

The 200/700 series cars are what I refer to as 'flexible flyers.' Many of us enjoyed that wagon as a tot. That set of noises you hear just in front of you IS in fact the windshield wandering about as you pull into the driveway. Try putting your fingers between the top of the window frame and the rain gutter during spirited driving. They bend and twist a LOT. This also effects handling. The chassis is an important part of the system. Softer spring rates can be used when the car does not bend so much. Downside being the effort required to stiffen a 200/700.

OP have you bent stock front control arms yet? In a 240 they will fold right up under braking.
 
OP have you bent stock front control arms yet? In a 240 they will fold right up under braking.
I've seen you mention this before, but I haven't heard of anyone doing it before on the street or even road course(I haven't experienced it on my car and we didn't have that issue on our endurance race car).

Boxing them takes care of the issue, correct?
 
I've seen you mention this before, but I haven't heard of anyone doing it before on the street or even road course(I haven't experienced it on my car and we didn't have that issue on our endurance race car).

Boxing them takes care of the issue, correct?

Its what happens when you abuse the **** out of your car forever.... Boxing them helps, its why volvo had the "taxi" arms.

I have only seen it happen from big impacts, like hitting a curb. Im sure if you are rallying the car it could happen.
 
i think i understand roll center now for the first time.

Possibly unrelated question. Assuming the car has dampers that can handle it, how well does said car with 500lb front springs handle on the street with daily driving duties or is this limited to a track car?

It'll be fine as long as you don't mind driving an oxcart.
 
I've seen you mention this before, but I haven't heard of anyone doing it before on the street or even road course(I haven't experienced it on my car and we didn't have that issue on our endurance race car).

Boxing them takes care of the issue, correct?

So lack of grip for you pavement pussies huh? Lol

We folded up a set of stock control arms under braking with used rallytires that were up to temperature. Out practicing East of Issaquah before all the gates and population explosion. Ahhhh.... My mis-spent youth....

I used the taxicab/police car control arms.... Boxed them later (overkill) and didn't bend them until they got bashed into the scenery. Gave it the Sellholm Kit for the 2008 season.

The Sellholm Kit made for increased track width and used spherical bearings for all pivots. Did good things for the rallycar.... Hindsight being all that it is I should have sprung for Sellholm's Kit in 2001 rather then suffering through all the disasters that were 'development' screwing around with "Is good enough for World Rally car so we can cobble this Ford trash into it" that (surprise surprise!) worked poorly and made for more bent coachwork. I sure didn't save any money with the GP-A Escort Cossie ish. Lol.... Lessons learned.
 
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The Sellholm Kit made for increased track width and used spherical bearings for all pivots. Did good things for the rallycar.... Hindsight being all that it is I should have sprung for Sellholm's Kit in 2001 rather then suffering through all the disasters that were 'development' screwing around with "Is good enough for World Rally car so we can cobble this Ford trash into it" that (surprise surprise!) worked poorly and made for more bent coachwork. I sure didn't save any money with the GP-A Escort Cossie ish. Lol.... Lessons learned.

Theres nothing like a good set of spherical arms for these cars... I really got to get mine back in stock for the peoples.
 
So do the 240s benefit from having a large front bar and tiny rear? I would think that the different causes for massive understeer, but I've read of some people that remove their rear bar for autocross.

Yes they do benefit. I ran a 32mm hollow bar in the front on mine and 16mm rear bar. Balance was great.
 
Possibly unrelated question. Assuming the car has dampers that can handle it, how well does said car with 500lb front springs handle on the street with daily driving duties or is this limited to a track car?
I thought it was fine with 475lb front and revalved bilsteins. Rear spring rate was 200-325lb (I changed a few times, settled on 250lb rear).

I would not run more than 350lb front on off-the-shelf Koni Sport (yellow) struts. 400lb felt awful, bumpy, bad ride, bad handling. I tried 400lb on my daily driver with the yellows and then dropped it down to 300 or 350lb.

More descriptions:
http://forums.turbobricks.com/showpost.php?p=4754484&postcount=11

I have a box of used Bilsteins about to go off for valving so I can hopefully get back to the 450lb+ front spring rate.
 
Thanks Mike!

Btw where do you send your bilsteins for revalving?
 
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