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1979 240 Fuel Lines

Old Iron

Old Iron

I Roll
Joined
Jun 18, 2009
Location
Dela-Where?
Have a 1979 242 DL that is running and driving. However it has a fuel leak somewhere b/t the tank and drivers seat. There are multiple spots with fuel drips on the metal fuel line itself and I figure it is one leak running down the lines. The rubber hose coming directly out of the tank looks in intact and dry. That rubber hose goes for only about 4? then comes to a metal junction which is all rusty (but still dry). I can?t see any signs of leaks above the fuel pump mount/ tray. The leak(s) appear to be forward of the main pump, but can?t confirm as there is a small drip bt the pump and tank.

The auto stores are almost useless when it comes time to parts and info, does anyone know what size fuel lines I need to get to make sure I do not alter PSI, etc within the lines? Anyone done this and have pointers? I am figuring it?s best to replace the entire lengthy of fuel line?

Thanks in advance ya?ll! See the photos one for random inspirations and the others of the fuel leak. Photos don?t do a great job of showing!
 
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For my '79 there was no thought to modify the original design as is the tradition on TB. That meant getting a coil of 5/16" steel tubing (Bundyweld) and getting practice flaring and bending.

bundyweld03.jpg


bundyweld10.jpg


bundyweld14.jpg
 
Looks like the accumulator needs replacement as well. An accumulator that rusty on the outside is rusty on the inside.

Car looks nice. You need to put the spacers on the headlight buckets so they fit properly in the headlight bezels.
 
cleanflametrap said:
For my '79 there was no thought to modify the original design as is the tradition on TB. That meant getting a coil of 5/16" steel tubing (Bundyweld) and getting practice flaring and bending.
Click to expand...

Baltimore is only an hour and a 1/2 away. I feel like an in person demo would go a long way. Do you have any before and after photos under the car? Great work!

dl242gt said:
Looks like the accumulator needs replacement as well. An accumulator that rusty on the outside is rusty on the inside.

Car looks nice. You need to put the spacers on the headlight buckets so they fit properly in the headlight bezels.
Click to expand...


Thanks Dave, we need to get working on your 242 as well! That car was a random photo, mine is not ready for flashy photos yet! My 79 has the best front end IMHO.
 
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Wax on. Wax off. Adorable pics.

Any other year, we'd be near Lewes sometime in June. Sometimes in Cape May.

Making up lines, I learned (1) you need a decent flaring tool to clamp the tubing, not the cheapie hanging on the rack at Sears, and (2) if you need extra practice, forget to put the tube nut on before making the flare. :)
 
cleanflametrap said:
Wax on. Wax off. Adorable pics.

Any other year, we'd be near Lewes sometime in June. Sometimes in Cape May.

Making up lines, I learned (1) you need a decent flaring tool to clamp the tubing, not the cheapie hanging on the rack at Sears, and (2) if you need extra practice, forget to put the tube nut on before making the flare. :)
Click to expand...

I will have to start looking for a good flaring tool and quality tubing.

I love not far from the beaches, in a normal spring, I would be in Lewes or Rehoboth 1 or twice a week, enjoying the beach or board walk. I love Cape H. State park.

nel621 said:
^ Does the tube come with the cone shape nut?
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I was wondering the same thing, I went into Advanced Auto expecting to find the tubing hanging in the stock room like they have the brake lines. They couldn’t look up what diameter I needed though!

Harlard said:
OMG YOUR KI</a>D IS SO CUTE
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Thank you! She is pretty awesome and loves the cars too!
 
I just took that line off my 1980, it's in good shape. Not sure how I'd get it to you though. I upgraded to 3/8". PM me and maybe we can figure something out.
 
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nel621 said:
^ Does the tube come with the cone shape nut?
Click to expand...

Last time I bought the tubing was 2005. McMaster-Carr 5176K24 was $18.86 for 25' then, now $28-something. Same tube and fittings used on the auto trans cooling lines. I did get some fittings too 50635K553 ($1.36 then) but was able to re-use the originals, so I never actually made sure the 45? flares were the right ones.

The recoverable cost was in the flaring tool, although I don't seem to recall the details. Made up cooler lines. Finished lines are all hard to photograph and I suppose a nightmare to ship.

bundyweld.jpg
 
The steel line is fine. However, what you can also consider is to get a line made up of the copper nickel material like the brake lines on the volvo. Then it will be easier to bend into shape for the car. I just got a nice flaring tool since I have a bunch of brake work to do soon. When you are bending the line into shape get even a cheap bending tool because that helps prevent kinks.
 
dl242gt said:
The steel line is fine. However, what you can also consider is to get a line made up of the copper nickel material like the brake lines on the volvo. Then it will be easier to bend into shape for the car. I just got a nice flaring tool since I have a bunch of brake work to do soon. When you are bending the line into shape get even a cheap bending tool because that helps prevent kinks.
Click to expand...

I've offered to give him a known good used one, just have to figure out how to get it to him without pretzling it up.
 
With the 5/16 & 3/8 copper/nickle lines it it easy to kink with out a good bender. Last week I was called in to do work for at shop on a job to fab some parts, they had a cheap bender. Had to bend 5/16 copper line [90 degree]. Well that didn't go well, went home and got my good one, problem solved.
 
Great info. That tool looks like it will slide into a Draw and not take up a ton of space! I have a hook on some good used parts that I am going to snatch up. These tools look like a no brained though, especially when it comes time to doing brake lines too! Thank you guys for all the great info so far!
 
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