Andrew's 122 turbo project

I did it. Nowe time to crush it

I did it. Nowe time to crush it

AndrewNance said:

Got my sprangz last week.

The red and black ones are what I was planning to use before I got a full set of the blue ones. The black ones are TMEs that Ipd used to sell and the reds are some unknown progressives that I got for a decent price. The blue ones are stiff as ****. They cannot be compressed by conventional methods, like, my hands. This is about to be awesome.

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Where did you get the blue springs?

They're from those cheap Ebay coilover kits for Hondas. I'm not using them anymore though. I would advise against it but I'll sell you all four of them for $40 if you really want them.

Working backwards...





The B21 intake fit alright but it left the 3" TB a little too close to the steering shaft. The coupler was about 1mm from contacting it.

Driveshaft test fit revealed that I'll have to cut the tunnel out to give it room and I'll be raising the floor under the rear seat a little to give the rear end a place to go.

Okay, intake looks amazing! Can't wait to see it finished.

Side note, the comment about the driveshaft makes me nervous.

Thanks,

It's only 2.5" but I had a one-piece made so it'll need some room to move. The slip yoke and the flanges are larger and barely won't fit through the front loop. I'll just cut it and weld a new tunnel in. The rear end would be fine if I wasn't trying to get the car pretty low again. I've been back and forth about doing all the work but I'm committing to it this time.

Tunnel has been raised 3-4". I'm sick of being inside the car now but it's finally done.



Got my intake back from Stephen.

Looks promising.

So my guess is that I will have to modify my tunnel in the same manner. I had to cut mine more just to get the slip yoke in and that didn't offer a lot of room. What diameter driveshaft are you using? 2 piece?

Thanks,

It's one-piece 2.5". Your transmission seems to sit a little different than mine too. Probably just because of my engine mounts. Mine sits a hair to the passenger side of the car which left the slip yoke like 1mm from touching. So I hammered that back a little even though that part of the driveshaft won't see much movement.

Make sure you pull that yoke out about 1" before measuring for a driveshaft and figuring how much room you need in the new tunnel section. I probably didn't need to raise the whole thing but the back never would've cleared and it was very close to the frame rail in the center of the car too. I'm glad I did it but I literally have like 20 hours in it and it wasn't fun.

AndrewNance said:

It's one-piece 2.5". Your transmission seems to sit a little different than mine too. Probably just because of my engine mounts. Mine sits a hair to the passenger side of the car which left the slip yoke like 1mm from touching. So I hammered that back a little even though that part of the driveshaft won't see much movement.

Make sure you pull that yoke out about 1" before measuring for a driveshaft and figuring how much room you need in the new tunnel section. I probably didn't need to raise the whole thing but the back never would've cleared and it was very close to the frame rail in the center of the car too. I'm glad I did it but I literally have like 20 hours in it and it wasn't fun.

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Morning Sunshine! Haha.

I would say mine sits higher due the cross member, but it's center (can adjust if needed). Thank you for the help on that.

I pulled it out 3/4" when I measured (pic was taken before I did that). I planned on going stock diameter. The local guy that will be making my driveshaft said that he could make it work for 250 to 300whp application... There is a coworker close by that will handle the welding for the tunnel (will wait till I have the driveshaft)... Am I missing anything else?

As always, your work looks great!

Thanks,

I've thought about shimming my trans up a little. It sits down at about 4* if I remember right. I won't mess with it unless there's a problem. It's pretty close to the tunnel as is and I don't want to rework that thing.

I think you can do stock diameter if you do a two piece but that small tubing will flex on a one piece shaft at the length these have to be. The length is basically the same as a Mustang. Maybe .5" difference. I'm pretty sure when Mike put this together in his car he just bolted in a stock Mustang driveshaft. Looking back, I probably should've taken them a factory one and had the front and rear reworked to fit the correct flanges. Even with the car as low as it used to be it just barely rubbed when taking off in first.

This one was around $260 and I supplied the slip-yoke. Denny's Driveshafts makes a 2.5" one piece for hot rods that I thought about buying, but there's a good 4WD shop near my work and they've been good to me in the past. He offered to make a 2" shaft but after checking the book, it was too close to the max length to risk it. Plus no matter what size tubing you get, the flanges will be the same diameter and that's where most of the problem is - the front yoke and the rear flange.

It's not very often I get a three day weekend. Or even a two day weekend. So I feel like I got a lot done but really it's just the ****tier parts of this project that I wasn't excited about. I finished the rear floor completely and got the back part of the rear seat back in with very little modification. The lower part no longer fits so I'll have to figure out what to do for a new one. I did have to relocate the seat belt anchor points but I only moved them about 1" from where they were. Shouldn't be a big deal and hopefully I'll never have to find out.



I had two rear tires installed and put the wheels on the back. Loving how that ended up. I cut a couple coils off the rear springs to get the height where I wanted it.

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(A lot of heart eye emojis)

Gates 19147 works great for a 122 with a B230. I cut 1.5" off the firewall end, turned it 90*, and voila!



I swapped bearings over to a pair of 5x108 hubs for the front. The 114.3 hubs wouldn't fit inside an R brake rotor and that's something I'm working on fitting to the car. So now it's gonna sit on hydras for a while. -1,000,000 points for 7/9 wheels on an otherwise-attractive Volvo.

When do you think you will have it up and running?

Thanks,

Hopefully this summer. Still a lot of little things to do. I'm trying to set my pinion preload so I can get the rear on the ground and be done with that until I do brakes.

If anyone can help me with this 8.8 I'd appreciate it. When I brought it home I took the companion flange off to change the pinion seal but I didn't mark anything. So now I'm not sure what to do. I have a crush sleeve eliminator but I'm thinking I'll just torque the nut back down since there's no way any normal amount of torque is going to crush the old sleeve any more. The crush sleeve eliminator is just some kind of 2-piece solid spacer and I don't even understand how that works without shims.

Nice job on everything you have done on your 122!!

vintagewrench said:

Nice job on everything you have done on your 122!!

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Thanks dude!

I couldn't find anywhere to put the catch can so I just put it directly on top of the breather plate.





I finished undercoating the tunnel, installed the driveshaft, and re-shimmed my front crossmember so I could set it back down. I'll have to trim part of the diff housing here because it still hits the floor. I'm 100% not interested in reworking the floor/tunnel again. Probably won't end up being able to leave the back this low, but it looks good for now.