Kickdown Cable

Replaced my severely worn kickdown cable afew days ago. Locked down pan and gasket nicely and filled tranny. Ran for over an hour constantly getting underneath and checking for leaks from lines, gasket, etc. Nothing.

Driving it the next couple days I started seeing tranny fluid drips underneath. Got under there to the the passenger side and it was sopping wet and fluid pushed back on tranny cross member, center support etc. Driver side tranny area dry.

No drips from lines and I know its not the gasket because it would have leaked much earlier as soon as the pan was filled. I suddenly noticed the kickdown cable coming from the tranny was wet and looks like the source of the leak.

1. The cable isn't broken, transmission shifting flawlessly.

2. Here is what my diagnosis is. I noticed the o-ring and surrounding area was wet with fresh fluid. When I did the job the cable clipped into the tranny tight. Here is my question, is the oring suppose to go inside the transmission or sit on top? The diameter of the oring looks much larger than the insert so I dont see how it will go inside unless its forced somehow.

3. I am definitely not taking everything apart after just completing this job. If the oring is suppose to just sit flush my only option would be to RTV the area and hope that fluid is no longer pushed through the opening. If its suppose to go inside the tranny opening I can try to get it in there but if it wont fit then I will have to try the RTV method around the opening.

You answered your question there. The o-ring on the cable end plastic goes into the transmission case. There are four tabs on the plastic where the o-ring is that engage with the hole in the transmission. You can see these four tabs when you're underneath looking at the cable with the pan off. It's a bit difficult but you must make sure the plastic of the cable is fully inserted into the hole of the transmission when inserting the new kickdown cable.

Okay.

I may have to drop the exhaust again to have a more open area to get it more precisely in the transmission case but I don't see the issue of getting the oring inside. It does look alittle large but it should be able to squeeze in there.

I dont think it would have came with the cable if it did not fit into the case.

There is no need to unbolt the exhaust.

Using a head torch will help you see the part of the cable that fits in the transmission

I will try to work it out.

Has anyone ever experienced the oring not fitting into the transmission case?

Thanks

I made a "clamp" to firmly hold the cable down off one of the pan bolts.

Hey all,

So come to find out the plastic housing was flush on the transmission case and the oring was there and in place.

Why would it still leak if everything was in place and in order? I guess I will rtv the oring for extra protection. I dont really understand how it is still leaking when everything is in place. It didnt leak before at all on the old kickdown cable.

The only thing I can think is the tranny is overfilled but 4 quarts seemed to put it at max. I have heard people say 3 quarts but that has only ever made it shift hard and like crap and doesnt put it to the max line.

I guess I overfilled the tranny but its BS there is no write up on specifics on reading the dipstick on this tranny or a quart amount. its tough using the hot side to measure the fluid because the reading is never accurate. As I just checked the cold reading the fluid is past max up to the end of the reader close to the silver of the stick.

So draining some fluid should fix the problem hopefully. I dont see it necessary to RTV the transmission case or plastic tab touching the case. I am pretty sure overfilling the tranny was the problem. The oring and everything was in place as it was suppose to be.

It sounds like overfilling.

The pan holds around 2-3 quarts. In my experience the shift smoothness didn't change when the fluid was low. So only add as much as you need to measure correctly

Does it literally need to stop AT THE max line. Or does it go beyond the max line area. If it is to stop at the max line why does the dipstick have that extension of reader before it hits the actual metal of the dipstick?

xDread92x said:

Does it literally need to stop AT THE max line.

Click to expand...

That's why is says MAX. Unless you think the factory printed that as more of a suggestion to open a negotiation session?

Likely you are safe if it reads above the max line by a few mm.

Overfilled AT: Excessive pressure ==> air entrainment ==> froth ==> diminished lubrication capabilities ==> localized overheating and wear.

Best to keep fluid level between min and max, but (my opinion) too little is worse for the AT than too much.

Yea makes sense

Thanks

Are you checking with the engine running?

Yea it just easy to overfill with fluid sloshing all over the dipstick when you check it hot.

I guess rule of thumb when you add just do it in very small increments. I thought 1/4 to 1/2 a quart was small enough per each check but I guess its still easy to overfill even when adding that amount if you're not careful.