YoshiFab Turbo drain

[noz-e8tr]

Tired of my turbo oil return leaking at the block. I have the YoshiFab -10 fitting and drain hose kit. Has anyone installed one of these while the engine is in? Anything I can learn from your experience? Did you remove the filter relocation for better access? Trying to eliminate surprises once I have it in the air.

[culberro]

Spend another $45 for the "easy button" solution?
https://www.stsmachininginc.com/prod...-drain-adapter

[AndrewNance]

I’d guess you can get in there well enough without removing the oil filter arm. Stick the drain fitting in the freezer and it should tap in there pretty easily.

[noz-e8tr]

Still an o-ring fitting. It will eventually leak.

Originally Posted by culberro

Spend another $45 for the "easy button" solution?
https://www.stsmachininginc.com/prod...-drain-adapter

[linuxman51]

wanna say I put one on the blue car, in car, but it didn't have the oil filter extension I don't think. not a big deal if you wheel that guy out of the way.

[culberro]

Originally Posted by noz-e8tr

Still an o-ring fitting. It will eventually leak.

I mean ya, in like 20 years it might start weeping. Viton o-rings hold up very well, those ain't your granpappies buna-n o-rings.

I made an o-ring adapter 6+ years ago and it shows no signs of leaking past the o-rings.

[white855T]

Its a tight fit with a rigid stainless hose. I'd go with the high temp silicone hose that atp offers for an easier install. https://www.atpturbo.com/mm5/merchan...egory_Code=OIL

[kahluaTDI]

JB Weld it on?

[Dirty Rick]

That's how the Yoshi adapter seals, locktite

[Kestrel]

Originally Posted by culberro

Spend another $45 for the "easy button" solution?
https://www.stsmachininginc.com/prod...-drain-adapter

How does this stay in? Just a press fit?

Sure it's just a drain, but that has me a little concerned.

[culberro]

Originally Posted by Kestrel

How does this stay in? Just a press fit?

Sure it's just a drain, but that has me a little concerned.

The o-rings and the force from the drain hose keep it inserted. There's one on my old street car and one on the turbo rally car. If there was ever any concern about it coming out, it would have been addressed. B230FT are cheap, $2k race weekends are not. We don't want failures.

It probably takes 15-20lbs of force to remove the drain hose and adapter fitting as one unit, if using a cheap ebay braided oil drain. It's such a pain that I just remove the hose when I'm pulling the turbo, leaving the fitting in the block. If you have that much force unintentionally pulling on your drain hose, you've got other issues.

[Ursan]

I did. Both my 940 and 780. Work a treat.

[G-Tech 940]

Originally Posted by Ursan

I did. Both my 940 and 780. Work a treat.

I think you are answering OP's question of "Has anyone installed these while the engine was in".

If so, did you heat up the block?

I watched Josh's video for the install, where he does it on the bench. He said it was better to have the block warm if possible when doing it in the car.

Did you do it with the block warm from running, or did you heat it up another way? I have a bunch of other stuff to do while I have the oil drained so I'm not sure if I will be able to do it with the block still warm.

[89_740Turbo]

Originally Posted by culberro

I mean ya, in like 20 years it might start weeping. Viton o-rings hold up very well, those ain't your granpappies buna-n

You leave my granpappy alone

[MasterCylinder]

https://www.240turbo.com/oildrain.html

[Fa182]

I installed it with everything in the car.
Had no issues and was an easy job. Put it in the freezer over night and it went in with just some very light tapping with a hammer.
I did remove the oil filter and cooler sandwich plate though because I had to change the O-Ring to the arm anyway as it was leaking. I didn't remove the arm itself.
I did all this with the front of the car only on jackstands.

[Ursan]

Originally Posted by G-Tech 940

I think you are answering OP's question of "Has anyone installed these while the engine was in".

If so, did you heat up the block?

I watched Josh's video for the install, where he does it on the bench. He said it was better to have the block warm if possible when doing it in the car.

Did you do it with the block warm from running, or did you heat it up another way? I have a bunch of other stuff to do while I have the oil drained so I'm not sure if I will be able to do it with the block still warm.

I didn't warm the engine at all, though they were both done in summer. Just cleaned out the bore, applied the thread locker and installed.

IIRC the 940 needed the tiniest bit of persuasion.

Installed with the car on ramps for easier access. Though removing the turbo would have made things easier, but it was impossible.

Neither leak to this day.

[77volvo245]

Originally Posted by noz-e8tr

Tired of my turbo oil return leaking at the block. I have the YoshiFab -10 fitting and drain hose kit. Has anyone installed one of these while the engine is in? Anything I can learn from your experience? Did you remove the filter relocation for better access? Trying to eliminate surprises once I have it in the air.

Try a measure the hole dia on the block. it should be one inch. I seen another b230 using my fitting I sell was lose in the block. I'm thinking the hole dia may vary.

[Fa182]

Originally Posted by Fa182

I installed it with everything in the car.
Had no issues and was an easy job. Put it in the freezer over night and it went in with just some very light tapping with a hammer.
I did remove the oil filter and cooler sandwich plate though because I had to change the O-Ring to the arm anyway as it was leaking. I didn't remove the arm itself.
I did all this with the front of the car only on jackstands.

Forgot to note that the engine was still kinda warm when I did it. At least cold enough not to burn my hands when unmounting the oil cooler and coolant lines

[rb92673]

I did it with the engine in the car, manifold/turbo off, engine cold, adapter frozen. Lots of room then the exhaust is not in the way to hammer that sucker in.

[2barxr]

I heated it up with a heat gun it didn't go in as easy as i hoped but it is now in and no leaks

[2barxr]

Originally Posted by rb92673

I did it with the engine in the car, manifold/turbo off, engine cold, adapter frozen. Lots of room then the exhaust is not in the way to hammer that sucker in.

i did it the same way i didn't have the cap so it little harder the only thing i did was brake the edge to make it easier to start

[Fa182]

From what I'm reading some people did it from the top?
I did it from under the car and the only thing I had to remove was the oil filter to have some room to hammer it in.

[djshimon]

I just did this a month ago-from the bottom. I removed the oil filter sandwich to put a new gasket on it. I've had a kinda bad oil leak I'm trying to remedy. I put the yoshifab fitting in the freezer for a day. Engine was cold. Clean your hole with the supplied metal brush. I had to hit it with some force about 10-15 times to get it in the block-it's a tight fit! The supplied sealer (green locktite?) didn't seem to dry/harden on the outside for days-not sure why. The fitting was so tight i don't think it needed it but I'm curious if the glue/loctite was bad or just needed a hot engine to cure? I ran some oil through the block to hopefully flush out any possible debris from the cleaning brush. After install i used 10an barb fittings with aeroquip hose for the drain. I hope it can take the heat, supposedly it can. Might give it a heat blanket to protect it from the heat eventually-or just make a braided line.
No leaks so far, I've drove about 100 miles since.

[MasterCylinder]

Originally Posted by djshimon

I just did this a month ago-from the bottom. I removed the oil filter sandwich to put a new gasket on it. I've had a kinda bad oil leak I'm trying to remedy. I put the yoshifab fitting in the freezer for a day. Engine was cold. Clean your hole with the supplied metal brush. I had to hit it with some force about 10-15 times to get it in the block-it's a tight fit! The supplied sealer (green locktite?) didn't seem to dry/harden on the outside for days-not sure why. The fitting was so tight i don't think it needed it but I'm curious if the glue/loctite was bad or just needed a hot engine to cure? I ran some oil through the block to hopefully flush out any possible debris from the cleaning brush. After install i used 10an barb fittings with aeroquip hose for the drain. I hope it can take the heat, supposedly it can. Might give it a heat blanket to protect it from the heat eventually-or just make a braided line.
No leaks so far, I've drove about 100 miles since.

Coated PTFE line is fairly cheap these days, thankfully. It's the fittings that are so damn expensive.