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Just another fake race car? garage queen.

turbojose

Active member
Joined
Feb 22, 2009
Location
SF bay area
This is my first project thread
Going for 10's?

History:
I have spent more than 10 years on TB soon after I got my first Volvo in 2007... sure it started off as just transportation as the point in my life I just needed practical. but being a car guy as it is, it didn't take long for me to start looking for ways to make it faster and faster.

I'm a little late starting a project thread as the car has already gone through a number of upgrades and transitions, so I will just start with where it is at today, and then talk about my goals moving forward.

car was already a turbo b21ft so had a lot of the goodies to start with.

as it sits today:
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Engine:
stock 16v head redone to factory specs.
nathan intake and fuel rail
90+ exhaust manifold on yoshi adapter
garret gtr3076 ballbearing turbo
3" full exhaust
ATP ultimate wastegate
MS2 extra "heeb tuned"
sequential fuel, and sequential spark
GM LS coils
Yoshi DSM cas adapter
NPR intercooler
Greedy BOV
AEM tru-boost controller
AEM methanol injection
Nitrous with table switching "heeb speed tricks" ready to go...
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Car still has complete AC system, power steering and cruise control all working.

Trans:
GM 700R4
Revmax converter with 4000 stall but i question that stall.

Rear is still stock 1031 with 3.91 gear with modified G80


Interior and stereo:

Completely reupholstered in original beige. (wish i had done leather)
custom momo steering wheel in R-Sport blue/gold stitching
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Dave Barton R-Sport dash overlay
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dynomat complete interior (probably worth a thread of its own)
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stereo Pioneer bluetooth head unit
image dynamics compression horns mounted under dash
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Morel 6" mid bass drivers in custom fiberglass door enclosures
3-10" Image dynamics ID 10" woofers.
MC4000 McIntosh "old school" 1000 watt amplifier
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Mechman 240 amp alternator



Wheels:
17 x 7.5 with 225 rubber
adapters for wheels 5 x 4.5



I'm sure there is much more I'm missing, but it will get sprinkled in over time i'm sure.

the car has been sitting for a few months with a bad rod knock. not wanting to tare the motor down to investigate without a plan, i have left it untouched in the garage for at least two months.

Covid19 has given me plenty of garage time, and I have secured a bunch of go faster parts, so I am going to try to assemble my plan here and share it with the group in hopes of gaining some knowledge and sharing some knowledge and hopes of achieving my goal.


The Plan:

Building a stout bottom end and Going for 10's in the quarter mile

here is where I start sharing what's going on and ask for advice or input. Today I dropped off a 94 squirter block and 2.5l crank at machine two diferent shops to get them cleaned up and checked out. My plan is to install new bearings, and start the assembly on a bottom half. In addition, here are the parts I have going into the bottom end.

NEW RSI 16v pistons rings and rods with ARP bolts (complete kit)
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2.5L penta crank cleaned checked and polished (mains all tested stock)

Keep in mind I have never assembled a bottom end before, but I will get it done. I'm persistent.

so let me kick off the questions:
1.) were do I find the torque spec's for the rods and main journals?
2.) should I consider ARP main cap hardware?
3.) do the piston rings need any filing on an RSI kit or can I just compress and install?

I am probably crazy for thinking I can even get this done having never done it and no formal mechanical training of any kind..... let alone run 10's after the process is all said and done. but lets have fun with it.

Does being a kid of a father mechanic qualify me as capable probably not, but I will share that I am 50 years old, and have always worked on my own cars, and enjoy drag racing as a hobby although I have been out of it for over 10 years.
 
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Nice car! I love the MC4000, I almost bought one last year but got two Phoenix Gold MS-275 amps instead.

Good luck with the build! Can't go wrong with ARP stuff, don't know about RSI rings, can't find my 940 manuals.
 
Nice car! I love the MC4000, I almost bought one last year but got two Phoenix Gold MS-275 amps instead.

Good luck with the build! Can't go wrong with ARP stuff, don't know about RSI rings, can't find my 940 manuals.

Thank you.... You cant go wrong with vintage Phoenix gold amps. I may start a separate audio thread in the future.
 
Heysup

Also, did you have to bash the strut tower much to get the 3076 to fit in there? :lol:

Hey Harland. I had to use the BFH and I had to notch the extra suport a little in order to fit. I might have some picture of it without the turbo installed let me look.
 
Ha! Just commiserating. I still wince about having to do it myself...

EcIFumQh.jpg


xk4ou0Wh.jpg
 
Ha! Just commiserating. I still wince about having to do it myself...

EcIFumQh.jpg


xk4ou0Wh.jpg


That looks about right Harlan.. it took some big hits... lol I was second guessing it, but the turbo looks so clean down there and out of the way....

bad side: I have always hated having to work on the turbo or service the turbo because it is a pain in the ass to get in and out.

I'm pretty sure on the next motor i'm working on now i'm going to go with the RSI header and put the turbo in a much more accessible area and hopefully add some air flow and HP to boot.
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Well crap, let me know if you ever want to sell it. I want an EFR 7670 in mine and a decent header's the ticket.
 
picked up the block and crank from the machine shop today... looking to do some assembly however stuck on weather I should use the Glyco bearings I have or try to source some Clevite77 bearings? does anyone have Clevite they are willing to sell? or does anyone know the part numbers so I can try to source? Summit Racing couldn't help me out much without the part numbers.

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Very nice. Best wishes in your journey for 10's.
I was going to ask about the A/C but I saw the relocated hose. Clever girl, may have to borrow that trick.
I also got a sense of deja-vu when I saw the catch can, but maybe I'm just conflating a few builds I've seen over the years.

so let me kick off the questions:
1.) were do I find the torque spec's for the rods and main journals?
2.) should I consider ARP main cap hardware?
3.) do the piston rings need any filing on an RSI kit or can I just compress and install?
1) I tried to be helpful and find these for you but am having a bit of trouble right now. The mains shouldn't be too difficult to sort out, but aside from some cheeky answers from people saying "just use a stretch gauge" for the rod bolts, ARP does publish some general fastener torques. Maybe me just quoting this alone may bring people out of the woodwork to contribute on the RSI stuff.

2) slightly contentious subject. If you decide to get them do take note of this thread: https://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=341685

There is a member on here that offers a solution of sorts, "Casey Hooligan", you can try to search for their posts or find their threads - I hate name dropping but those two discussions go hand in hand.

Aside from that, not many issues are reported with the mains distorting or otherwise being problematic on these engines so hardware in the appropriate fastener grade/class that does not interfere with other items should be sufficient. (Off the top of my head I can't recall what the stockers were... I want to say 12.9 hardware on the mains)

3) Measure them at the very least - Just the top and 2nd ring, you don't need to worry about the oil control ring unless otherwise specified. I realize this is the internet and you can only see text and not hear the tone in one's voice, so I'm not trying to be derisive if you knew that already.

[...] looking to do some assembly however stuck on weather I should use the Glyco bearings I have or try to source some Clevite77 bearings? does anyone have Clevite they are willing to sell? or does anyone know the part numbers so I can try to source?
Decade old info: http://turbobricks.com/forums/showthread.php?p=3172485#post3172485
Qualified in that manner as things like that tend to change over time.
I personally wouldn't expend the extra effort trying to find these and just run the Glyco bearings.

[...] Summit Racing couldn't help me out much[...]
Get used to that. These engines are a little more common than Lada or Peugeot offerings... but they will never be a LS, Coyote, *JZ, RB, or Honda engine so most vendors are going to give you an ass to kiss even if you do all the leg work. Some are nicer about it than others.
 
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