LT1/T56 going in next week

I am finally purchasing the my '95 LT1/T56 combo from a local yard next weekend. For a high price of $3500 I am getting every piece off of the car I want. This will include engine, tranny, all wiring, accesories, ECM, exhaust, mounts, fuel EVAP, etc. The vehicle is a 1982 242 DL that came with a 1031/3.54 rear end and (I believe) a B21. I have the Stealth Conversions (JTR) motor mount. I am planning on trying to mate the stock T56 mount to the volvo crossmember. I'm sure this will require some degree of fabrication. My main concerns at this point are shifter position, pinion angle, and tranny mounting. Anyone who has experience with this specific conversion please let me know anything you think could be overlooked. Any other general advice pertinent to the LT1 is welcome. Thank you.

asilomar244

asilomar244 said:

I am finally purchasing the my '95 LT1/T56 combo from a local yard next weekend. For a high price of $3500 I am getting every piece off of the car I want. This will include engine, tranny, all wiring, accesories, ECM, exhaust, mounts, fuel EVAP, etc. The vehicle is a 1982 242 DL that came with a 1031/3.54 rear end and (I believe) a B21. I have the Stealth Conversions (JTR) motor mount. I am planning on trying to mate the stock T56 mount to the volvo crossmember. I'm sure this will require some degree of fabrication. My main concerns at this point are shifter position, pinion angle, and tranny mounting. Anyone who has experience with this specific conversion please let me know anything you think could be overlooked. Any other general advice pertinent to the LT1 is welcome. Thank you.

Click to expand...

The tranny is a breeze, just cut a small box and weld in square plate and you're there. The worst part will be the reverse lockout solenoid. You'll need to take a hunk out of the drivers side rear shifter tunnel to accomodate it.






These pics show the hole I cut and the plate I had fabbed up to weld into place.

The JTR mounts will work with an LT1. You're hardest part will be that the AC compressor will hit the tube. You may have to run the 1LE AC delete pulley.

If you need any help, I do LOTS of LT1 harnesses and PCM's for my street rodding customers and would be glad to offer my services. I do have LT1 harnesses in stock too.

Thanks for the pics. I would be very interested in getting the specifics on what you recommend in regard to the wiring harness. I have spoken to two companies that offer modification at different costs. Please let me know any input you might have or how to get in touch with you or your company. Thanks again.

Stefan

asilomar244 said:

Thanks for the pics. I would be very interested in getting the specifics on what you recommend in regard to the wiring harness. I have spoken to two companies that offer modification at different costs. Please let me know any input you might have or how to get in touch with you or your company. Thanks again.

Click to expand...

Not a problem. My webpage is in my profile. But its:

http://www.ghostwheeltech.net

Thanks!

Check out my web page for some help as well. Mine is an LS1 but the T56 is the same.

Good luck,
Justin

wadejg said:

Check out my web page for some help as well. Mine is an LS1 but the T56 is the same.

Click to expand...

Speaking of which Justin.. remind me to give you a nice big for not talking to me before you started your LS1 swap.

Course, you didn't know. You should have used a truck oil pan and pump pickup, it would have saved you a LOT of hacking up your crossmember.

Actually I bought and installed a truck oil pan and pickup. The rear sump stuck way down below the OEM Volvo crossmember and was not a reasonable option. Also, it still interfered with the stock position of the steering rack. Now, I could have cut off some of the bottom of the truck oil pan but would have lost oil capacity and nobody could tell me if this would have been a problem. But still with the steering rack clearance problem.

Now Street and performance is selling a modified Camaro oil pan for '55 Chevys that might work easier but I wouldn't be able to tell unless I bought it and tried it...and given how well the truck pan worked...and how well 2000 corvette exhaust manifolds worked...and how well etc. worked I just decided to redo the crossmember and not spend more $$$$ only to sell the stuff again on e-bay.

But if you want to give me an easy option to lengthen my steering shaft by .75" I'm all ears. I might also ask you about the T56 hydraulic hose which I mated to a 260 clutch master cylinder, only to find out it was 4" too short. I didn't measure correctly. So now I need a hose with the GM slave cylinder fitting (which is GM proprietary) on one end and some random pipe fitting used by Volvo on the other. Damn it.

Regards,
Justin.

wadejg said:

Actually I bought and installed a truck oil pan and pickup. The rear sump stuck way down below the OEM Volvo crossmember and was not a reasonable option. Also, it still interfered with the stock position of the steering rack. Now, I could have cut off some of the bottom of the truck oil pan but would have lost oil capacity and nobody could tell me if this would have been a problem. But still with the steering rack clearance problem..

Click to expand...

Interesting. I'd have cut the truck pan and used a remote double filter.

[quote:51a4c86299]Now Street and performance is selling a modified Camaro oil pan for '55 Chevys that might work easier but I wouldn't be able to tell unless I bought it and tried it...and given how well the truck pan worked...and how well 2000 corvette exhaust manifolds worked...and how well etc. worked I just decided to redo the crossmember and not spend more $$$$ only to sell the stuff again on e-bay.[/quote:51a4c86299]

Completely understandable.

[quote:51a4c86299]But if you want to give me an easy option to lengthen my steering shaft by .75" I'm all ears. I might also ask you about the T56 hydraulic hose which I mated to a 260 clutch master cylinder, only to find out it was 4" too short. I didn't measure correctly. So now I need a hose with the GM slave cylinder fitting (which is GM proprietary) on one end and some random pipe fitting used by Volvo on the other. Damn it..[/quote:51a4c86299]

I can build just about any hose imaginable, including GM hoses with proprietary Saginaw fittings. I also have the ability to TIG/MIG weld steel tubing together. I made my AN6 to GM 4L60E fittings myself. Lemme know if I can help.

Hi Asilomar244

Go to the two links below there 2 262c with LT1/T56s being built by Snapdragon Engineering in Amherst Mass. I think the person to talk to is Paul Curran

www-unix.oit.umass.edu/~tcroy/v8262c.htm
www-unix.oit.umass.edu/~tcroy/v8bertone.htm

George

Cars I own

Restoration project
Personal import 1974 144gl B20a M40
1975 264gl B27e with Cr M51 5speed getreg box

Everyday car
1986 760GLE B28f/AW71

Cars I have owned
1982 244GL B23e/M45

Thanks guys,

Justin, I spoke to you on the phone at length and will emailing you as soon as I have the engine and problems arise. I have also seen Paul Curran's work on project242.com and spoken to him as well. Hope all goes well next week, but as problems arise I will post. Thanks.

Stefan