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Coolant in oil, fresh build

$150 a hole? Prices have crept a bit.... 10 years ago it was $100 a hole. My son will be building his engine from a squirter block I bought which had all 4 sleeves installed. I called the machine shop in TN and they reviewed the process.....seems it was dry icing the sleeve, and then some "tonnage" on a hydraulic press to set them. Agree this should be a very robust solution for these tractor engines.

Source of the sleeves was a different supplier that those listed above.... I've got the data somewhere.

Good luck!
 
Just pressure tested the cooling system on my car. Only thing I replaced was the oil cooler and heater pipe that goes to the water pump. Holds PSI just fine and compression test was dead nuts. Somehow the oil cooler must have been leaking in coolant. Honestly don't know how I got that much water in the oil pan, but I'm gonna go ahead and start her up today and see what happens. These cars have the wierdest problems.
 
It's back in the car and full of coolant and oil, fingers crossed I'll be driving it tomorrow once I put the rest of it back together. Slam panel, hood latch, motor mount nuts, down pipe, trans crossmember, transmission oil and shifter, driveshaft, turbo inlet and outlet pipes and air filter, hood, grille and headlight doors, hook up knock sense to microsquirt left to do.
 
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I have one of those if you need it. I think B23 has the tab on opposite B230, and I just cleaned and painted the wrong one for my car.

Thanks, this one is a transplant from a 940, I'm using the water cooled oil cooler instead of the air cooled. I just welded a tab on the other side. I welded up the holes and painted it. It's going back in he car in about an hour, finish up the install and hopefully break it in l tonight. I have to hook up clutch cable, speedometer cable, motor mount nuts, plug in TPS, install slam panel and hood latch, refill with coolant, test the fuel pump and check for leaks, and set the fuel pressure. Then it's truth time.
 
It's alive, BUT, what's broken in this picture?
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... The head didn't want to sit down on the spacers that go around the head bolts on the right side, I tapped it down with a plastic hammer before I torqued it down. I mangled them a little getting them out before the the machine work, maybe they're causing the problem?
FYI, I recall removing these with guidance from mikeP....use a socket that just barely fits inside the alignment dowel sleeve, then use vise grip pliers to grab it and twist it out. The socket supports it from the inside, preventing it from being crushed and distorted.

My first engine build with Mike's help was a B21F bored to 96mm. It had a water-leak-into-the-oil condition that cropped up in the first 50 miles or so. I'd take it for a drive for maybe 15-20min, get it hot, and upon returning home found the oil to be like a milkshake. I acquired the block for free, already bored to std b23 size, and with piano wire o-rings in the deck. I guess we should have tried pulling the wire from the deck and throw in another Elring just in case....but that block got scrapped, a b23f block got prepped, and it went back together and ran that way from about 2006 til I parked the card in ~2015.
 
Nipple broke off the radiator.

You are correct sir! Not even sure how I did it but the plan is to tap for 1/8" NPT and screw in a hose nipple. $1.58 hopefully instead of $161.00. I ran it about 15 mins, couldn't see the timing mark, need to mark it with some white out or something, I tried a little orange paint but couldn't see it. It was also 11:30 and I was very tired and drained. Fingers crossed I'll drive it home tonight. Ported head, big valves and Sooper bitchen flywheel let's it rev quite freely, almost 16 valve like.

Edit, one fuel pump is also so quiet I didn't hear it running, only knew it was working because the new fuel pressure gauge is also working.
 
First autocross of the year, this was the last run, if I hadn't biffed at the last sweeper it would have been my best. I got all the way home and blew the head gasket 1 light from my neighborhood, boost spiked past where I had the tune set so the head's coming off in a day or 2.

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Edit: after checking the results I hit 3 cones on that run.
Here's my best time, I beat 2) 2020 Supra's one in both pax and raw time and one in pax, we switched places, our raw time were .09 seconds difference.
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What is the compression difference using stock vs thicker gasket?

Unsure of your question, I now has B23ET pistons and RSI rods and my man took some meat out around the over size intake valves. I did not CC the head, but it was an uncut jy 530, so I was running a stock Elring gasket.
 
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