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So I bought a Volvo

Okay.. I asked and the original owner did do the trans work you described, everything BUT the seal.. He said that when he was doing it, it looked good.. So it sounds like that isn't too far off in my future.

It's good to see you guys have pulled out the trans on these tanks without much gear, being that I don't have a lift/special equipment that's a vote of confidence for me.

..

Updates: new Spark plugs, flame trap installed last night

New weird stuff:

now that I have a working tach in the car I'm noticing Low idle speed, looks like 300 max..
automatic door locks unlock at random, this might explain what seems to be a low charge on the battery in the mornings.. Bad relay? Hardware issues? Anyone seen this?

R/S,

BnG
 
Hello Tb,

Little update since last we spoke.. I have all the accessory mounts in and I'm reading to figure out the most common sense way to dismount all of these peices and remount them without issue..

I resolved my low idle while I was cleaning the engine bay, car yesterday..

I had recently read about "unmeasured air" and it's effects on the how the idle speed, etc. I was just tooling around, fixing cables and checking hoses and noticed the air box wasn't seated correctly. Put everything back together cleaned up and viola! no low idle, she's purring and happy now. I suppose I will just keep this throttle body gasket for another fun weekend.

362,000 miles and counting :)
 
Congrats on $500 purchase! I got a sedan for that much. 87 model. Wanna swap? 3 sedans and no wagons ever come up for sale. here. Lol. you lucky.

On to more underhood adventures. See if air filter box flap that meters hot and cold air is working, removed, etc. I just ditched mine. Fyi my S90, although of different design, was stuck on hot air 100% when I bought it. Worth an inspection.

I saw good performance with cleaning grounding points, popping loose all underhood electrical connectors and clean/ grease them. I found 2 that improved performance. For mine it was the distributor 3 wire connector, and temperature sensor connector. You may or may not have issues, but its worth the 5 minutes to check.

Also, I'd highly recommend the oil cap rattle test. Just unscrewing the oil fill cap while idling and determine if it sits nicely, or jitters all around will help determine if the entire PCV system is pulling vacuum. This includes the flame trap, lines, oil trap are pulling adequate vacuum. I recently pulled it all from the engine, cut oil trap open cleaned it, then rewelded it with a spare soldering iron. You can use adhesive too. If the oil cap stays steady after just a flame trap clean, I'd. save that job for later. I was able to do it without removing anything else, but most people remove the intake manifold. If you decide to go that route, I'd recommend a full intake cleaning and possibly a port/ Polish if you feel energetic. Lol
 
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Yeah these cars are real picky about unmetered air. glad you got that figured out. The door lock issue is probably located in the drivers side door lock actuator. Look here CLICK and scroll all the way down to the bottom of the page. There is some instructuions that might help you out with the locks.

As far as the accessory bushings go, unbolt one accessory at a time and the old rubber ones will probably fall right out. Get some marine grease from your local tractor supply to help the poly ones slid in. A "C" clamp will come in handy as well as a small hammer. The one that gave me the most trouble was the back one on the AC compressor mount. make sure you do one at a time so you don't forget what way they are to be installed.
 
centason said:
Water in trunk area means the seals are shot.
Click to expand...

Wouldn't that be, like, blood if the seal was shot in the trunk?
images

:oops:
 
OMG. Now that you mentioned motor mounts, I went out and looked at some stuff thinking I was 100% stage 0. I was ready to slap in a brake light housing after a college dingbat hit me. Then the car sat for 2 years. I I happened to look at oil filter like you had mentioned and YES! Damn thing has busted mounts now. They were probably weak pre-accident, and the impact busted em.

Thanks for a reminder to check! Hahahaha
 
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Hello and thanks to all the latest posters..

So here's my update for this weekend.. I did poly bushing all the way around and well as belts (minus timing belt, I'm having an issue with removing the crank shaft pulley (I don't have that nice tool) - found that my timing belt cover is breaking apart (bio-degraded on these too? atleast it looks like age/wear) Also, I cleaning my MAF, removed and cleaned the trottle-body (new gasket in place). The car ran peppy af around town for the miles on her but starting it after a short drive.. I'm getting idle surge 1k-1.5k (steady not up and down between those two numbers) before the work I did and short drive it is tac'd on 650 solid. >.< Can't win them all, I'm sure I'll find out the issue..

I also fixed 4/5 hoses, rewired a few old patch work things done by the previous owner..

Thanks to each of you that posted step by step stuff, I haven't tackled the back hatch "water" issue yet, its been dey both times it's rained recently.. but I am going to use that guild to fully check.. I did eye ball the butt cheeks (always lol), they are clean - no issues, even the paint was nice in there..
 
it dawned on me that I should put it in 5th gear.. not 1st.. FML.. lol I'll do the timing belt tonight.

Also, morning update - the wagon is purring again - not sure what it was working out/burning off last night but the car is happpppy again. :)

Next step? Get paid, get a new front seat, get third seat - eye ball springs/dampers/wheels/braces for some low, stiffening O.O
 
Hey. Just finished reading through this thread. I picked up a '93 Volvo 240 last year and also own an STI (and like you have bolted/unbolted many things on/off it).

Anyway, you can get a tach and 52mm clock on ebay for about $60 shipped. I did that and it only took 30 mins to install. Love having the full sized tach!

Also the stock GR STI boost gauge (also 52mm, used as a vac gauge in my 240) also fits nicely in the Volvo 52mm dash hole. :rofl:

9783839002_2ee75ef461_b.jpg
 
mike.volvo.240 said:
Hey. Just finished reading through this thread. I picked up a '93 Volvo 240 last year and also own an STI (and like you have bolted/unbolted many things on/off it).

Anyway, you can get a tach and 52mm clock on ebay for about $60 shipped. I did that and it only took 30 mins to install. Love having the full sized tach!

Also the stock GR STI boost gauge (also 52mm, used as a vac gauge in my 240) also fits nicely in the Volvo 52mm dash hole. :rofl:

9783839002_2ee75ef461_b.jpg
Click to expand...

Yeah I did this as well, although I refrained from installing the clock, the upgraded radio I have have a digy clock that works fine. Question, why is the gauge cock-eyed like that?
 
BloodnGrease said:
Yeah I did this as well, although I refrained from installing the clock, the upgraded radio I have have a digy clock that works fine. Question, why is the gauge cock-eyed like that?
Click to expand...

Because the gauge doesn't go past 0 (both because it's broken and the car is NA). So I installed it with the 0 at the 12:00 position. When the gas pedal is all the way to the floor, the gauge needle points straight up.
 
mike.volvo.240 said:
Because the gauge doesn't go past 0 (both because it's broken and the car is NA). So I installed it with the 0 at the 12:00 position. When the gas pedal is all the way to the floor, the gauge needle points straight up.
Click to expand...

Ah so you turbo'd your 240 already? The gearhead in me is dead set on doing it.. the father in me says there are other things to be bought >.> .. one day I'll have that disposable income! :lol:


PunKKnuckle24 said:
Once a marine...
Click to expand...

Always a Marine. Semper Fidelis
 
on a serious note, thank you to all that have replied so far - I've been able to bring my brick beauty back from near death..

The surging hasn't occurred again but I will be pulling the IAC motor tomorrow and giving it a good cleaning. I will also spy that sensor while I'm at it.

Side note, while tracking down my elusive back-end leak I came across the exposed wires from the wiring harness that runs through my rear hatch. So I'll be tearing that open and repairing them until I get a new wiring harness.
 
Well all, so I got the third seat! HUGE thank you to nedc for the great pricing!

I have a question as it did not have 100% of the needed bolts, etc. Here's a photo for reference.

I have all the seat belt plastic and (most important) their bolts, but I do not have the items in the middle or left. The bolts, brackets, the two wire looking tie down and that bolt/bracket thing on the far right aren't there. Does anyone have these, or better yet can tell me their size/specs etc?

IMG_2971.jpg
 
Hello TB -

I've a new issue that's arose in the past few days.. the car doesn't want to start - it seemed like the ignition switch (there have been a delay between when I have turned the key and when the car would start to turn over).. Today after I got it home, it just quit... the dash lights up but zero juice to whatever mechanism the ignition switch closes a circuit for..

Any ideas? If you need more information I'll gather it just let me know.
 
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