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Old 11-12-2019, 02:09 AM   #26
apachechef
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Install the shifter foam!
key
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Old 11-12-2019, 02:44 PM   #27
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Keep in mind the acoustic 'absorbers' will absorb water if they are open cell, so you don't want to put it anywhere is can get wet. I use the eggcrate absorber material in my home studio for a vocal booth. Works well as an anechoic material.
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Old 11-12-2019, 05:38 PM   #28
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Looks like you've received a good bit of advice. Yes, the B20 is louder than a B21 or B23. But, the car doesn't have to be unbearably loud.

Head to 360 Auto Recycling in Lake Stevens. Pull all the seals off the '91 245 there, grab the mats under the carpeting, etc... Add those to your 144S. The only issue I can see cropping up with using the 240 shifter whisper biscuit foam on a pre-'72 140 is the fact that the shifter mounts to the top of the tranny, instead of at the end of the top cover tunnel on a 1972-75 car. You'll need to modify it a bit to get it to work.

The wing windows do provide quite a bit of wind noise even when closed. My '72 142E was kinda noisy above 35 mph, wind-wise. As was my '73 145E, before I replaced the doors with some from a '76. Got a lot quieter when I went to the later door window frames with the larger glass piece. I'm not sure if you'd want to go that far, but it is an option. A set of '74-'77 doors will bolt on and have the correct latches. They also will take the same door lock cylinders. You would wind up with the flush door handles, instead of the older style that are mounted to the door skin.

One of the former PSVCOA chapter presidents had a '70 145 that was converted into a sedan delivery car. So, rear side doors were welded shut, rear quarter and rear door glass were replaced with panels. Was powered by a B20B and a M41 putting power through a 3.91 rear axle. It wasn't that bad, acceleration-wise. 70 was around 3000 rpm. Better than the 4200 rpm or so that my '73 was with its B20F/M40 and 4.10 combo. My '72 142E was around 3100-3200 with its M41 and 4.10 combination. Car originally had a M40, hence the 4.10, instead of the 4.30.
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Old 11-15-2019, 01:15 PM   #29
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Absolutely will install the shifter foam. No upholstery shops around here - should I just get closed-cell foam from Joanne?

I'm realizing that I have to take off the door cards anyway to install the window scrapers, so I might as well seal the doors while I'm at it. Do I just tape the butyl to the outside panel?
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Old 11-15-2019, 01:18 PM   #30
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“Do I just tape the butyl to the outside panel?”

Typically butyl comes sticky on one side and you place a few pieces stuck right to the inside of the door skin. Taping it on won’t provide the desired dampening effect.
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Old 11-15-2019, 01:25 PM   #31
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Sorry yeah, not tape it to the outside panel, but stick it to the outside panel? I honestly realized I shouldn't say "tape" as I was typing it and thought "I'll fix that later". Derp
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Old 11-15-2019, 02:10 PM   #32
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[QUOTE=CRatcliff;6015277]Absolutely will install the shifter foam. No upholstery shops around here - should I just get closed-cell foam from Joanne?

I'm realizing that I have to take off the door cards anyway to install the window scrapers, so I might as well seal the doors while I'm at i. N Do I just tape the butyl to the outside panel?[/QUO 240TE]

Ask Hiperfauto. I got a NOS foam for a 140 from him and installed it in my 240. It made a HUGE IMPROVEMENT!
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Old 11-15-2019, 03:15 PM   #33
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I'm realizing that I have to take off the door cards anyway to install the window scrapers, so I might as well seal the doors while I'm at it. Do I just tape the butyl to the outside panel?
Get 6mm poly sheet from your local big box (Lowe's / Home Depot) and use some 3M butyl rope caulk to stick it to the door, then reinstall the door card.
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Old 11-18-2019, 01:29 PM   #34
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For the absorbing/dampener on the firewall, should I install it on the engine side or interior side?
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Old 11-18-2019, 02:28 PM   #35
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Interior
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Old 11-19-2019, 11:19 AM   #36
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Here's some more suggestions whst to look into

I'm pretty sure an aluminium valve cover will reduce noise over the standard stamped steel one. And as a side effect it also looks much better ;)

How is your door alignment? No excessive gaps causing noise to get in due to bad sealing?

Rubber sealing at top of firewall thst seals against hood, how is that?

No very thinwalled exhust pipes?

Doors - later 900series got an about 3mm thick plastic foam behind the door panels to reduce noise
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Old 11-19-2019, 01:09 PM   #37
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Ooooh. All great points.
Rubber seals are a bit degraded (seals around door, seals at against the hood).
Door alignment seems fine.
Aluminum valve cover is definitely appealing.
Exhaust pipes are stock and falling apart - definitely could use replacing. Would you recommend replacing with stock?
Definitely doing to line the door panels with something. Debating butyl or the 6mil plastic sheeting - mostly just not sure how much space there is behind the panel.
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