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Jump starting volvo 240

VolvoLatAm

Active member
Joined
Oct 4, 2019
Location
Colombia
I have a 1982 244 and was wondering if I ever have to use my portable Hyundai battery jump starter, should I connect the jump starter's negative black clamp to a ground on the car, and just the positive on the positive battery terminal of the battery like I do when using another vehicle with jumper cables...don't want to fry anything.

What piece of metal do you use for a ground in your 240s? Thanks.
 
You're kidding right?

For a second I thought I was logged into my account at turbopricks--nah it is turbobricks.

I tried multiple times contacting you to buy an oil temp sender in your:
-PM's
-countless bumped oil temp sender threads that you make on this forum...
You're kidding about that right, or maybe you just like to post things for sale and not respond to anything?

People sometimes damage cars jumping them....through overvoltage, arcs, spikes, igniting fumes... Maybe we should all just live the Redwood chair life and poke at things without asking questions if we aren't sure about something. This is a forum, where people ask questions...

You probably don't even think about gas leaving the battery or maybe vapors from the fuel lines or carb.

Never **** around with anything electric: https://darwinawards.com/darwin/darwin1999-50.html
 
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The culture on here has become just like Farcebook. Insult people at every opportunity. It's a sad commentary about the state of our society. My BMW has a separate jump starting post with a surge suppressor between it and the rest of the electrical system to protect the computers. So does my 2017 Mustang. Your question was a legitimate question that deserved a direct answer.
 
The culture on here has become just like Farcebook. Insult people at every opportunity. It's a sad commentary about the state of our society. My BMW has a separate jump starting post with a surge suppressor between it and the rest of the electrical system to protect the computers. So does my 2017 Mustang. Your question was a legitimate question that deserved a direct answer.


It's very sad man...I had a black 2013 5.0 and sold it for a used 30k miles C7, check out the process to jumpstart: https://imgur.com/a/sJuhzDM

This 244 is my first classic car, and it will be my girlfriend's first for when I go back to the U.S. so no need to break anything if I can avoid it.
 
It's always been that way in the off-topic sections. If anything, it has quieted down a bit here, now that most of the trolls have moved to the FB Volvo groups.

Anyway, a good ground is one of the studs for the strut bearings. A few car manufacturers specifically say to put the negative jumper cable there on the car with the dead battery. Have found that it frequently works better than using a lifting eye or the manifold on the engine itself.
 
It's always been that way in the off-topic sections. If anything, it has quieted down a bit here, now that most of the trolls have moved to the FB Volvo groups.

Anyway, a good ground is one of the studs for the strut bearings. A few car manufacturers specifically say to put the negative jumper cable there on the car with the dead battery. Have found that it frequently works better than using a lifting eye or the manifold on the engine itself.

Thanks, front strut bearing was the location I was thinking of choosing. I probably have some bad grounds from corroded wire insulation that span all edges of the engine bay, but I have to move the car first before replacing the wires.
 
I'm gonna out myself and say I didn't know you shouldn't put the negative cable on the battery terminal. Learn something new every day.
To be fair I jump started a car only like once in my life.
 
:rofl:

I Recall the first time I had to change a battery on a '04 VW Passat, opened the bonnet and its like where's the battery?


In the cowl, right?

Try an Chevy HHR; it's in a box under the car.

The negative can go to the engine or good chassis ground.
 
For a second I thought I was logged into my account at turbopricks--nah it is turbobricks.

I tried multiple times contacting you to buy an oil temp sender in your:
-PM's

-countless bumped oil temp sender threads that you make on this forum...
You're kidding about that right, or maybe you just like to post things for sale and not respond to anything?

People sometimes damage cars jumping them....through overvoltage, arcs, spikes, igniting fumes... Maybe we should all just live the Redwood chair life and poke at things without asking questions if we aren't sure about something. This is a forum, where people ask questions...

You probably don't even think about gas leaving the battery or maybe vapors from the fuel lines or carb.

Never **** around with anything electric: https://darwinawards.com/darwin/darwin1999-50.html

Strange I never got a Pm from you.

:e-shrug:
 
I always use the battery terminals and have never had any problems. It is also what has been done at every shop I ever worked at. Grounding to something else is also cool. No worries either way.
 
I was told by a shop owner several yrs ago to connect th final ground cable to th frame, idea is to minimize sparks near th battery.

Personally, never seen a battery explode, maybe someone can chime in ?



*or better idea if an option is to remove battery and charge seperately

* You can connect charger un-powered, then plug it in after it's connected (again the idea is to minimize sparks around the batt when possible)
 
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I was told by a shop owner several yrs ago to connect th final ground cable to th frame, idea is to minimize sparks near th battery.

Personally, never seen a battery explode, maybe someone can chime in ?



*or better idea if an option is to remove battery and charge seperately

That is exactly why you do that. The battery being charged is giving off hydrogen gas. It is rare, however, if they do explode you have sulphuric acid flying everywhere. My dad left a battery on a charger out in his shop way too long and it exploded. There was pieces of the case all over and battery acid sprayed on the bench, walls and floor. If someone had been within 5-10 feet of the battery they would have acid all over them. That made me rethink how I go about jump starting a vehicle.
 
With respect to charging the battery, some chargers, like the newer automatic Schumacher units, require that the negative be connected to chassis ground, or if the battery is being charged disconnected from the car, with a two foot long battery cable attached to the negative terminal. If you connect the alligator clips to both terminals directly, it will charge for a bit, then start flashing the yellow charge indicator, indicating that the charging process has failed.
 
My dad left a battery on a charger out in his shop way too long and it exploded. There was pieces of the case all over and battery acid sprayed on the bench, walls and floor.

Yep, this happened to friend of mine... battery on the charger in the garage, he was down the driveway looking into there garage and BOOM, battery muck all over the place. He tells the story all the time
 
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