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Pig: '79 242 16vT

Yes!!

After the test drive I noticed two things: the KL arms push these wheels and tires far out long enough that rolling fenders becomes important. Front passenger side ate its fender when backing it into the garage.

Next thing to be discovered is that the SPAL fan was blowing air through the front of the car rather than pulling, which was causing the engine to heat up at an alarming rate while moving. Reversed the wiring and covered it up again. Second wiring failure was a relay terminal crimp at the fuel pump relay. Fixed that guy as well. So far so good.

Drawing up an aircon circuit. The R134 1993 circuit is set up for a somewhat more rudimentary/more complicated control scheme (extra fan, auto low speed on the blower). Mine will be based on that, but slightly simpler.
 
OK Pics of the damage:

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And of the replumbed FPR. Word to the wise: if you have a Parker retailer nearby, chances are that you will get much cheaper deals on hydraulic components than you would buying crappy no-name fittings from Amazon.

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Here is my idea of an AC circuit built around my PWM heater fan and MS3X, with the 1993 diagram below. Feel free to chime in. Yes I am aware that my handwriting is atrocious:

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Took the car out to work for a quick errand on Friday and very roughly penciled in the tune on the way. Been avoiding making the fender supports to keep the tires from eating fenders and the driveshaft is making a *lot* of contact with the tunnel. Rather than that I focused on doing a little bit of interior assembly, which sounded much nicer than jacking up the car and rolling around the floor.

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Dealt with two problems: first the driveshaft would rub a lot and second, the front left tire was sucking in the front of the fender and bending the **** out of while reversing.

First solution was to go back to the Energy t5 trans mount and to slot the holes of the trans side ears. Then it was easy enough to align it with the center slot in the STS crossmember. This spaced up the tail of the trans and hence lowers the center u joint. Added bonus is that the shifter is comfortably closer to my right hand!

As for the fenders, commando bumper cars just have thr fenders bolted to rubber straps attached to the bumpers. I simply cut, bent, and drilled some aluminum L channel from home depot to space out and stabilize the sheetmetal. Looks a little bit more aggressive now!

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Detail on AC condenser:

Quick update on the diagram: I will redraw what I ended up doing. I have zero formal training in designing electrical circuits so bear with me. Duane, I have some more detailed shots for you now. I drilled a total of 4 7mm holes and used a combination of donut type isolators and rubber cushion mounts, plus high temp weatherstrip foam to seal the cooling package. 1850CFM SPAL fan is barely cutting it in terms of cooling the engine. Might throw the 1000CFM fan in the front location as a pusher. If that fails I will revert to the stock 940T fan as it moves 4500 CFM on its own according to internet lore. We shall see.

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Went to DEQ this morning. Threw in the biggest 3" cat I could find, which turned out to be a Flowmaster 2900230. Failed the first pass with HC emissions at 308 PPM on the first 330 on the second round (limit 220). Went around the block to lower idle speed and attempt to stabilize the engine speed, which turned out to be a challenge with the big cams. Went again with settings tweaked and a closed loop strategy penciled in. Passed with 700 on the first, 80 PPM on the second HC test. My guess here is that the cat may not be getting warmed up enough from the engine idling at 750 RPM. Mounts feel fine anywhere in the rev band except between 2500 and 3000 RPM, and at idle; they are unbearable at those areas. Going to throw in a Diesel pass side mount and see whether that quiets things down inside the cabin a bit.

Also washed and drove it to work for the first time since November last year. It's fun even at 7 psi and hardly any tune.

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Let's have a party. My car will be in the garage about that time, whether I have to drag all the household junk into the street or not.

:grrr:
 
Glad to see the 93 AC condenser fits with minimal butchery. Don't know if you have it charged already or just test fitted; if you get another chance to remove it I'd recommend a good cleaning of those fins. Lowes/Home Depot both stock household AC condenser cleaner, which does an OK job on these automotive coils. I'm sure you appreciate that you want max. air flow to your FMIC.

Looking good!
 
Re: the range of misery for the mounts; exactly the same in my car with HD rubber mounts and the STS solid third mount. It makes me want to rip the dashboard out of the car.
 
using softer mounts with our torque mounts is fine. If you are running stiff mounts plus the torque mount it's going to rattle. The Jag mounts alone rattle more than our torque mount with softer mounts.

I have cheapo stock engine/trans mounts in my car plus your thick rod. It's honestly fine for daily use. Definitely noticeable at idle but I have no issue living with it.
 
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