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Just another fake race car? garage queen.

Link and Maxxecu are the hot thing these days.

This. I was between a Link box and Maxxecu when deciding for my whiteblock project. They are both comparable, but you will find more tuners for Link in the US.
 
there's plenty of variation in the thickness of the casting on the water jacket, I had a few pop through when I drilled the freeze plugs. Blue Loc-tite, no leaks... 3 years now I think?
 
Finally got up the courage to continue on drilling... got all 16 holes drilled and a total of 4 that went all the way into the water jacket... I ended up using the PTFE yellow tube purchased from Home Depot. I also had two tragedies where the Tap broke in a hole... I wasn't able to remove the broken tap, so I just twisted the retainer a few degrees and drilled 2 more holes.... so now I have 4 poc marks next to two of the plugs.... but at least those two holes didn't go all the way through. at the end of the day... all threaded and installed... thank you for all of the encouragement and tips. On to the next steps. I hope this isn't a sign of more tragedy to come... LOL
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Update.... Motor doesn't have a rod knock... and now that makes me mad for not discovering before hand but also happy that I still have a good usable short block... SO... The knocking sound was a broken Flex plate. I broke one before when installed properly, and recently I did a trans swap that that may have caused it. either way, I'm still moving forward with the 2.5L swap. out with the stock volvo '94 bottom end and in with the new all forged internals. and what the hell while i'm at it, it will still get the upgraded yoshi cams, and the MS3-pro in place of the MS2 I built. other upgrades will be a new turbo Header, and possibly a turbo upgrade. I will post pics of the flex plate once I have it out in the next few days.
 
went the hard way to change the flywheel.... pull the trans... nah just pull the motor and put in a new motor...lol.

anyone got a good source for all of the engine sensor connectors? The New MS3-pro is on the way, and I want to solder up a new harness.

looking for Bosch style injector connectors with pic tails
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and LS coil pic tails.
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but could use a lot of others. like the TPS sensor, and knock sensor, and IAC motor.
 
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Davebarton.com has the injector plug kits, if you don't know exactly which one, email him through the website and he will hook ya up.

I haven't had to buy LS plugs since I got a complete stand alone harness.
 
Prowire has just about everything you’d ever need. They even have numbering lots in heat shrink for that fancy boy harness.
https://prowireusa.com/

Also, don’t use pig tail connectors. They usually look like trash and take longer.
 
weekend update... I got the head pulled from the car... (pulling a head in a 240 is a MF) as confirmed... the rods are good. no bent rods. and head gasket looks good. Looks like I may have a 94 short block for sale soon, with stock pistons already fly cut for 16v. I ran out of steam today... but I will find time to remove the short block from the car, and swap in the new 2.5L this week. then I will start with the re assembly and installation of the new ECU and all the other goodies. Pics coming soon.
 
one thing i need help from the 16v guys... it looks like when I originally installed the head... 7 years ago... i apparently put a little too much sealer between the cam carier and the Head... and it looks like the number one intake journal on the cam ran a little dry.... i wont make the same mistake when I re install, but I'm wondering If i need to look at getting the cam journal turned or should I just run it. :)

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cam still looks good though.

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It's common for the intake cam journals to get a little haggard from lack of lubrication. The head biases oil to the exhaust side first, which is also the "downhill" cam that's mostly submerged in oil.
I like to run an external oil feed to the rear of the head, on the intake side. Super easy to do while the head is off.

Grab some 300-400grit sand paper and lightly sand the cap and journal. Clean it all up, and then lay the camshaft in the journals of the upper head section... with no caps on. How much can the cam rock when pushing the cyl1 side into the journal and then cyl4 side into the journal? Rotate the cam 90deg and repeat, rotate & rock, rotate & rock. How much rock was there? Is it consistent with the rotations? One side worse than the other? Stock cams aren't that straight in my experience, and can cause slight wear issues.
 
It's common for the intake cam journals to get a little haggard from lack of lubrication. The head biases oil to the exhaust side first, which is also the "downhill" cam that's mostly submerged in oil.
I like to run an external oil feed to the rear of the head, on the intake side. Super easy to do while the head is off.

Grab some 300-400grit sand paper and lightly sand the cap and journal. Clean it all up, and then lay the camshaft in the journals of the upper head section... with no caps on. How much can the cam rock when pushing the cyl1 side into the journal and then cyl4 side into the journal? Rotate the cam 90deg and repeat, rotate & rock, rotate & rock. How much rock was there? Is it consistent with the rotations? One side worse than the other? Stock cams aren't that straight in my experience, and can cause slight wear issues.


THank you for the reply. that rear feed for the intake cam sounds intersting... are there any post that show that? I would be interested. also, I'm installing a new set of cams from Yoshifab, so not sure if I should go through the process of checking you mention above? I will try to clean up the bearing journals a bit before re installation.
 
went the hard way to change the flywheel.... pull the trans... nah just pull the motor and put in a new motor...lol.

anyone got a good source for all of the engine sensor connectors? The New MS3-pro is on the way, and I want to solder up a new harness.

looking for Bosch style injector connectors with pic tails
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and LS coil pic tails.
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but could use a lot of others. like the TPS sensor, and knock sensor, and IAC motor.

Bosch EV1 connectors (like this https://www.eeuroparts.com/Parts/53...Gcl6YKFhf9qNKzYqEE7A01m3tKmimDthoCcrAQAvD_BwE)

TPS I think I got AMP junior power timer? been too long to recall.

GM stuff you're looking in the weatherpack and metri pack families.

I typically buy everything from Mouser or Digi-Key, just have to know what you're looking for.
 
Bosch EV1 connectors (like this https://www.eeuroparts.com/Parts/53...Gcl6YKFhf9qNKzYqEE7A01m3tKmimDthoCcrAQAvD_BwE)

TPS I think I got AMP junior power timer? been too long to recall.

GM stuff you're looking in the weatherpack and metri pack families.

I typically buy everything from Mouser or Digi-Key, just have to know what you're looking for.


You can get JPT/EV1 connectors for way cheaper from Corsa Technic:


https://www.corsa-technic.com/category.php?category_id=146
 
You can get JPT/EV1 connectors for way cheaper from Corsa Technic:


https://www.corsa-technic.com/category.php?category_id=146

eeuro was just the quickest link that showed the components.

Typically all of this stuff is available for the lowest prices at Mouser or DigiKey; you just have to do the homework for a full buy-sheet as they don't generally have little kits like those sites. (ex. the terminals are half the price on mouser compared to the Corsa link there)

I actually think pigtails are MORE work than unterminated connectors. Buy a set of decent ratcheting crimpers
 
Agreed on Mouser/Digikey. Since my patience/time to research are limited, I'm personally okay with the more consumer-level pricing and interface as far as electronic components go. It's a matter of personal preference I suppose.

As for pigtails, 10000% this. There is no downside to assembling your own connectors, and end up with a much higher quality product at the end of the project.
 
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