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LH 2.4 to Microsquirt

Sorry, I can't download your files -- I don't know if it's because I don't have a google drive account, or if it's your file sharing settings.
 
I changed the link sharing settings, should hopefully work now. I thought the tune was helping the cutting out problem but it did it for a little at like 3k rpms today. Wondering now if its noise from the CPS or something.
 
I can download the files now - I didn't see anything in a quick review that would explain the cutting off.

As you noticed, the injector duty cycle of 150% is bad. What injectors and FPR are you using? The original NA ~20 lbs ones? If so, they're way too small for 15+ psi of boost.

I don't understand why the O2 didn't go very lean in boost when [desired] duty cycle went over 100%???

Your report of
I was getting into boost today and it turned off all of the sudden. The transmission was still turning the engine over but the engine wasnt running at all. I coasted it to a gas station and it started right back up.
makes me wonder if you've hit some sort of MegaSquirt obscure firmware bug when going over 100% duty cycle?
 
I’ve heard that if my required fuel is wrong then it can make the duty cycle above 100. Im using the stock NA FPR (2.5 bar i think?) and 850 turbo orange injectors. It never leans out under lots of load which makes me think the injectors are fine but im not sure.
 
Stock FPR is 3bar for LH2.4, and maybe 2.5bar for LH2.2 (I don't remember when this changed).

You should find the flow rating for your injectors, add it to your config, and recalculate the req fuel. It will probably change _a lot_. It may take some tweaking to get it running again.

You also have automatic EGO correction enabled. For initial tuning, I'd disable it so that it doesn't confuse the tables/logs.
 
I think the flow rating for the injectors is put in correctly, but some of the TB guys on another form were saying that I should just toy around with req fuel until it read reasonable numbers. I had it running with the calculated value for a while but never got a log and checked the duty cycle spikes. I'll try it out with the req fuel calculator when I get home.

In order to disable the automatic EGO correction do I just go into the EGO control settings and select disabled? Wouldn't that not save the AFRs to the log?

Last thing, it started cutting out a little bit more randomly lately. It sometimes cuts out for a second at idle and it was also doing the same thing at like 3000 rpms when I was driving it today. It's super hard to diagnose because it's really hard to describe and I have no idea what it could be.
 
It's Friday, after a long week for me, so apologies in advance if this is rambling or incorrect.

I really don't have much experience with redblock MS tuning, so I get confused easily by non-standard setups. Hopefully someone with more experience can recognize your specific issues from your logs and settings.

I think your MS setup uses a reqfuel injector setting of ~20 lbs but you're actually using ~30 lbs injectors. If fully tuned, this would result in reduced VE's of ~33%. You also have EGO correction enabled, which will change the fueling dynamically. This adds confusion.

Your target AFR table is weird. Normally, you want stoich 14.7 at all points below boost. For lower RPM near idle, the engine may do better with richer AFRs. When boosted, richer AFRs are used to provide additional cooling to prevent knock.

Your timing table seems aggressive, but may be OK - again, I don't have enough experience.

The logged [desired] duty cycle of ~150% is bad. This means that the injectors are on all the time at 100%.

----

If it's cutting out at times other than max rpm/boost, you may have a wiring issue.

With EGO disabled, the logs still show the commanded injector PW or duty cycle, and the resulting AFR. Either enabling EGO correction, or running auto-tune will dynamically adjust the injector timing to reach the target AFR.
 
Here is my spark table from a 2 valve redblock.

Screen-Shot-2019-05-21-at-8-47-17-PM.png


It's not finely polished but a good start.

PM me an email address and I'll send you the export file.
 
So I changed a few things. I set the crank capture to falling edge and also found out that my injector size was put in wrong and changed it and the required fuel with the calculator. It's still cutting out at higher rpms but I'm going to try to get the fueling better up there and see if it could help. I'll also try that new spark table.

Edit: Oh, and I disabled EGO correction
 
Looks like we are in the same boat. I have mine closer to running right. All except high boost levels Im way to fat. Anyways, seen you change to falling edge, I just wanted to remind you to check your timing with a timing light. Be patient you will get it with everyones help on here.
 
So I changed a few things. I set the crank capture to falling edge and also found out that my injector size was put in wrong and changed it and the required fuel with the calculator. It's still cutting out at higher rpms but I'm going to try to get the fueling better up there and see if it could help. I'll also try that new spark table.

Edit: Oh, and I disabled EGO correction

NOTE: When the trigger edge is changed the trigger angle offset needs to be reset to realign the spark table.

Changing the capture edge can offset the timing by as much as 20?.
 
Hey all, I readjusted my #1 tooth angle today after switching to falling edge. It was advanced a good bit. It also seems like it starts to retard at higher rpms but my cheap harbor freight timing light crapped out before I could mess with any more settings.

My compression ratio is whatever the +T norm is, I don't have the turbo pistons. Boost is ideally 15lbs on a 13G but still trying to get my homemade wastegate bracket to keep the boost at a consistent number.

What's so bad about that spark table?
 
I’ve working on getting mine lined out. It’s been a learn process, that’s for sure. Anyways here’s my timing table and afr table. Keep in mind I’m running e85. It’s not perfect but working on it. I think you running to much timing. Go get a good timing light and mark your balancer. You have to know where your timing is. Anyways here’s a link
I think it will help you.
https://imgur.com/gallery/Rh1Docw?s=sms
 
Pump Premium gas, 20psi boost from a 3071, (0 overlap) turbo cam by Elgin, Stock Pistons and headgasket.
It's been running for over a year like that.

E85 from the gas station is not consistent and has a lot of water in it.

I get my E85 from Thunderbolt I buy it by the drum. Double distilled water reduced to almost Zero.
https://www.thunderboltracingfuel.com/
 
Making progress! Got the ignition to stop retarding at higher rpms but it made that spark table produce some pinging :( I'll back it off a few degrees under boost and see if that helps. I think my problem was wayyyy too much fuel making it flooded since this problem used to happen way more often when my tune was even more rich.


Pump Premium gas, 20psi boost from a 3071, (0 overlap) turbo cam by Elgin, Stock Pistons and headgasket.
It's been running for over a year like that.

E85 from the gas station is not consistent and has a lot of water in it.

I get my E85 from Thunderbolt I buy it by the drum. Double distilled water reduced to almost Zero.
https://www.thunderboltracingfuel.com/
 
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