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240 heater core magicians

B

bartman

Member
Joined
Dec 2, 2002
Location
Branson West, MO
After finally getting painted and back on the road with my 242 V-8 stroker, I have coolant leaking out of the AC drain hole. Is this a common occurrence? Or is it just lucky?
I am assuming the leak is a crack in the heater core, but could it be the heater valve? Would I be that lucky? When I turn the control valve to heat, as needed to chase bubbles out of the system, heavy vapor comes out the vents.
Who amongst us has changed this core the quick way? Links? Thanks!
 
There isn’t really and easy/fast way to remove the heater core. Check the firewall port, pretty common place to leak after it deteriorates over time. STS makes a Stainless replacement, smart investment and piece of mind part...

105-F62-FD-2-E62-4033-94-D3-9-C4-A0-A81-F597.jpg
 
I have had the firewall manifold problem and the STSmachine unit and it is an easy fix.

But you do not describe a manifold or valve issue because you say there is fluid coming out of the AC drain and smog out of the defrost vents. That is certainly heater core problem.

I just replaced my 245 core by the chain saw method. Not easy because the entire dash must come out. I didn't take pictures because there are a couple detailed descriptions in the articles forum.

Thirty minutes after 2 hours getting there. Not back together but that may take a little longer.
 
I just noticed STS now has an angled ss port, that’s the one for me for sure. It’s really tight back there and I AM going to replace the OEM one.
This is my 4th 240 and the 1st heater core. I have however, put in several blower motors (by chainsaw method), might as well wade in and do a heater core. I should plan on a new temperature valve also, just to cover that base.
So, was I real lucky having the mess on the floor of the garage versus the inside of the car????
I will go to articles section and find a chainsaw method for the heater core, thanks all.
 
You either remove the dash and the entire heater case, or, you simply cut a slot in the top of the case so you can slide the core up and out. Another brilliant design by the Volvo design team that didn't have a single Engineer among them.
 
2manyturbos, you may be correct about their lack of engineers, although, I had heater core problems with my 1964 Sport Fury... the entire console had to come out to get to the heater core, then the front of the dash, etc. etc. it was an all day job, not one to pay a tech/real mechanic to do. The 3rd time I could do it in about 1/2 day :)
 
2manyturbos said:
You either remove the dash and the entire heater case, or, you simply cut a slot in the top of the case so you can slide the core up and out. Another brilliant design by the Volvo design team that didn't have a single Engineer among them.
Click to expand...

If they had engineers, they would have made it like my girlfriend's expedition where the blend door actuator nub snaps off and you get cold air with the heat on and hot air with the a/c on.
 
Yeah, I went to a class reunion for h.s. One of my old buds was a proud engineer for Ford...I asked him about several of those types of screw ups, like the so called tools for changing a flat on my ‘97 F150. He he..
 
This is the original post but the pictures are gone.

http://www.turbobricks.com/forums/showthread.php?t=24211

Never fear . . . CleanFlameTrap has us backed up.

http://cleanflametrap.com/heater_core/

This has much better detail on where all the screws are. Once you get the dash off just cut the top off the fiberglass box with a vibrating saw and/or a Dremel tool. Pull the core straight up. Stick it back together with 2 or more layers of HVAC aluminum tape. I wouldn't suggest plain old duct tape. One more place that it shouldn't be used.

WOW! you now have the old cracked dash out. Perfect time to install a Coverlay dash cover.
 
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