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Old 05-30-2016, 06:37 PM   #51
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that is so cool, thanks for the breakdown photos!
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Old 05-30-2016, 11:02 PM   #52
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in fact with the glass float bowl it looks like a toilet mechanism
I had a Datsun pickup that had a glass bowl (just the side in that case) and it made diagnosing fuel issues a snap. One glance at it and yep, can rule out the fuel pump.
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Old 06-05-2016, 11:44 AM   #53
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,

Yesterday was the first time in several weeks I had some time to work on the wagon. Decided to go ahead and make it safe and road worthy so it can be used daily this summer and fall. Spent a couple more hours to get the SU carbs totally dialed in and solved a hot running and starting issue that turned out to be vapor lock; then took out it for some road testing.

Delighted to find that the engine, driveline, and overdrive all perform very well, other than the noisy transmission. The engine is a B18 w/a B20 "F" head, and the combo has a very low compression ratio (about 8.00:1 ?) In spite of that the engine produces an exceptional amount of low-end torque with 30 degrees of total spark advance yet still likes to rev and does not detonate under a heavy load w/regular gas. It was rebuilt about 10K miles ago and is a standard bore (the blocks in 68's and maybe some later models were evidently cast in an alloy of cast iron known for being wear resistant).

Up next is:

1. Pressure wash and clean up the engine and compartment and repair a cracked upper radiator inlet pipe and tank connection and install new radiator and heater hoses.

2. Remove a number of crimp-on wire terminals under the hood and solder on new terminals.

3. Take a good look at the front end and check the lube in the steering box - at certain positions, it has a sensation of a bit of tightness. Need to also check and see if any of the pistons are seized in the brake calipers.

4. Install new shocks: we live in the mountains of Vermont on a dirt road and have to travel a couple of miles before reaching pavement and at times the gravel country roads can be very rough with wash boarded sections. Stiff, shocks suited for high-speed handling do not work well in my experience on this type of road and both you and the car take a real beating. Going to try to find some good gas-hydraulic shocks that are not too firm to soak up this type abuse better. Anyone have any recommendations? Wagon rear shocks are different than those used on sedans.

5. Install the new Abarth exhaust system after it arrives on the slow boat from the Netherlands.

After all of this is completed, continue on with the rebuilding of the supercharger that will be an ongoing project when I can find the time. Hope to have ready to go later in the season.
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Last edited by vintagewrench; 06-10-2016 at 06:20 PM..
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Old 06-07-2016, 03:45 PM   #54
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The Italian-made Abarth exhaust system arrived today from a dealer who sells original n.o.s. (original new old stock) vintage Abarth Italian exhausts systems in Europe. These systems were used on Ferraris and Lamborghinis back in time.

In the 1960s & 1970s these systems where the one to have on your foreign sports car and they sound GREAT, bolt on and make a few more horsepower.

The tubing and the mufflers are made out of 18 gauge steel and are not heavy but are still long lasting. The ground clearance is also good w/lowered 122s and P1800s because the oval sections are only 3.5" top-to-bottom

Hope to get started on this sometime this week and have it installed by the end of the weekend.


Last edited by vintagewrench; 06-07-2016 at 05:29 PM..
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Old 06-11-2016, 11:16 AM   #55
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Let the fun and games begin: Install the Abarth exhaust system; clean the engine and compartment; install new coolant hoses and thermostat; adjust the valves and change the oil.

More stuff.

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Old 06-11-2016, 02:33 PM   #56
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Can't wait to see a video of that exhaust on the car. I bet it sounds incredible!
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Old 06-11-2016, 04:16 PM   #57
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Can't wait to see a video of that exhaust on the car. I bet it sounds incredible!
Sorry to disappoint you but, I am the last person on the face of the earth to get a video camera and I do not have a smart phone because the cell reception is terrible here in the mountains of Vermont.

It only took a couple of hours to remove the stock exhaust and install the new system. I still need to get a clamp for the rear muffler to tighten the connection and also make the two pipes level, but the system fits well and sounds excellent. As to the sound, think of a throaty MGB or Triumph sports car - authoritative, mellow but not shrill, harsh or to loud. Eliminating the front of three mufflers would also make it a bit throatier.

Sure is a joy to work on a car from Georiga that did not spend its life getting all rusty via the New England winter road salt - everything comes apart easily without having to use heat. After about 10 winters from when these cars new here, everyday cars they would be having rust-out issues. Fixing rust on 122s bodies in the 1970-'80s was an ongoing problem.

The Volvo mud flaps are really corny and have to go, but they do keep the cow do do from my neighbor's dairy farm manure spreader off the paint - it is really corrosive and if you forget to wash it off it will burn right thru the paint and start rust quickly. Maybe I need to engineer a set of quick detachable mud flaps!

The 122 system sounds somewhat like this 1963 VW but with an added 500cc of noise (the bigger bang theory): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y_77EUlqPyg


Last edited by vintagewrench; 06-11-2016 at 07:35 PM..
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Old 06-18-2016, 11:14 AM   #58
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I am very happy to have gotten the original bill of sale for the car from my friend Jon (third owner) from whom I bought it from. It is dated 11-14-67 to the original owner of the car from the dealer. With the dealer installed air conditioning and other add ons it came to a total of $3628 which was a lot of money for a car back then. He traded in a 1966 Volvo wagon for which they allowed him $2110 for. Also got the title that the second owers had for the car when they traded it in to Cars International in Atlanta, another Volvo dealer. The key chain Jon got from that dealer w/the keys can be seen on top of the paper work, the other side of it has the Volvo emblem.

Also scored a pair of the large rubber and aluminum bushings for the back of the rear lower control arms from a Volvo parts vendor on Ebay, who did not know what they fit for only $15.00

Nothing much new going other than slowly getting normal maintenance work on the car done so it is safe to drive.


Last edited by vintagewrench; 06-18-2016 at 07:44 PM..
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Old 06-26-2016, 05:07 PM   #59
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Made a bit more progress this week - first off was to find a set of the standard KYB shocks for the rear of the car, which are harder to find than those used on the sedans due to having eyes on the ends instead of studs. They work well on the dirt roads around here and totally smooth out the wash-boarded sections that beat cars to pieces in time. One of the two old Gabriel shocks was totally shot and wasn't even working anymore.

On a good road the ride and handling is acceptable, although combined w/the tired stock soft baby carriage like stock rear springs, it rebounds a bit on large bumps - stiffer springs are in order down the road.

Also found the exhaust manifold off of a parts car that I want to use with the supercharger. It is a 1966-67 P1800s piece that I think is the same as the 122s manifolds used during those years. The two into-one-design produces good low-end torque and a unique and pleasing sound and will work well w/the blower. They are just as good as headers except at high rpm where a well designed equal length four-into-one design will make more power.

Also cleaned up the wheels, painted them and found one more needed Michelin XZX and left off the dog dish hubcaps and trim rings. Will go these until finding the wheels and tires I would like to use. Trying hard to find some vintage Halibrand magnesium wheels w/real knock offs, but will more likely will have to go modern reproductions.






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Old 06-27-2016, 10:17 AM   #60
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I may go to KYB next time for shocks and struts. My Bilsteins are crappy on the dirt roads way too stiff.
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Old 06-30-2016, 01:10 PM   #61
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I may go to KYB next time for shocks and struts. My Bilsteins are crappy on the dirt roads way too stiff.
Back in the late-1970s and on thru the 1980's, the 120 series and 140's cars fitted w/Bilsteins around here that were run on dirt roads, most of them ended up with problems. The shocks cracked and punched out front cross members and the truck floors on the sedans.

At the time I had much better luck w/Konis which were adjustable and seemed to last forever, but since then things have changed.
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Old 06-30-2016, 03:11 PM   #62
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Love these cars
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Old 06-30-2016, 06:29 PM   #63
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The Abarth exhaust, is quite a cool piece! Did they make more performance parts for volvo during that era as well?
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Old 07-02-2016, 01:52 PM   #64
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Love these cars
The 122s is a great car that with a few suspension modifications can be turned it an excellent handling machine - They also respond well to the right engine mods.
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Old 07-04-2016, 09:43 AM   #65
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The Abarth exhaust, is quite a cool piece! Did they make more performance parts for volvo during that era as well?
Not that I am aware of, Abarth's main business was producing and selling accessories and performance parts for Fiat, Lancia, Cisitalia and Simca cars, like inlet manifolds and exhaust systems.
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Old 07-05-2016, 01:24 PM   #66
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Back in the late-1970s and on thru the 1980's, the 120 series and 140's cars fitted w/Bilsteins around here that were run on dirt roads, most of them ended up with problems. The shocks cracked and punched out front cross members and the truck floors on the sedans.

At the time I had much better luck w/Konis which were adjustable and seemed to last forever, but since then things have changed.
Good to know I have thought about going the Koni route.
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Old 07-07-2016, 08:34 PM   #67
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Nice project! On my 122 I'll be running a Mitsubishi trigger wheel on my engine build with mechanical advance, as the petronix doesn't like above 6000rpm.
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Old 07-09-2016, 10:38 AM   #68
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Good to know I have thought about going the Koni route.
As I mentioned earlier my experience has been with Koni's back in the early-1980s - I don't know anything about what they are producing today.

I would do a post about what is popular today in the performance and the maintenance Forums.
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Old 07-09-2016, 10:40 AM   #69
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Nice project! On my 122 I'll be running a Mitsubishi trigger wheel on my engine build with mechanical advance, as the petronix doesn't like above 6000rpm.
Thanks - I believe Andrew Nance commented that he is planning to use the same trigger wheel on one of his cars.

Is there a thread on the Forum covering your car? If not have any photos of it you can share?

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Old 07-10-2016, 05:42 PM   #70
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There is a thread on here, however the photos are down, but I have kept my thread updated on ozvolvo.
https://ozvolvo.org/discussion/22/vee-ques-122s
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Old 07-10-2016, 09:22 PM   #71
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Hope to drop by ASAP...
Michael in Orford
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Old 07-11-2016, 03:14 AM   #72
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I've always thought Minilites looked cool on these cars.
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Old 07-13-2016, 11:34 AM   #73
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Summer has been super busy here in the shop getting client's vintage racing cars ready to run at events at both Indy and Milwaukee, rebuilding a 1914 Simplex 4-cyl. 600 ci engine and trying to get a little time in here and there on the Volvo.

The new micarta vanes for the supercharger are finally finished, and you can see them above in the aluminum rotor, mocked up in about the same location in the housing bore that it rotates in (there is clearance below it).

The assembly rotates clockwise, and the right-hand vane is shown about five degrees before it starts to pull in the fuel and air charge from the portion of the aluminum manifold fed by the carburetor at atmospheric pressure. It then compresses it under the rotor; next as it rotates the vane slides out of the rotor slot via centrifugal force, lets the compressed mixture expand until it is forced out of the housing into the intake manifold at a maximum of 5-7 psi.



The intake mixture enters in the bottom half of the blower housing seen above through the diamond shaped openings. The compressed mixture exits through the top half into the intake manifold. The divider helps to equalize the flow to both the front and rear intake runners.



The new vanes above placed in the rotor. They are made of micarda, a tough thermosetting plastic and cloth composite that is the same material used for Volvo "fiber" camshaft gears. The slots assist in collecting the gas, air, and oil mixture to help lubricate the rotor slots and the sides of the vanes.



The housing bore and the rotating assembly will be lubricated by an Ampco "Vapor Lubricator"; this one is a brand new old stock unit. It injects a very fine mist of "Marvel Mystery Oil" or 10 weight oil through a spray nozzle into the carburetor venturi in the amount of about one drop very 4-6 seconds. After passing through the blower, it serves as a top end lube for the intake valve guides, intake valve and seat faces and the cylinder bores and rings.

New pressure-sensitive aluminum ID plate below for the front end of the supercharger housing.

Next up is to hone the ID of the blower housing on the shop Sunnen precision honing machine, in the same manner as a cylinder bore is done. Then detail everything, get new bearings and seals and reassemble it.


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Old 07-13-2016, 01:11 PM   #74
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Wow this build keeps getting more and more interesting.
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Old 07-13-2016, 05:49 PM   #75
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The amount of period correct wizardry in this thread is extremely satisfying.
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