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Old 09-18-2019, 05:32 PM   #1451
Harlard
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I don't My photography skills are inexistent. Maybe some day I'll have decent pics taken of the whole thing.

Been messing with the tune for the last 75 miles. Changed the oil, found nothing weird, and proceeded to up the rev limit from 6000 to 8000 with a soft limit of 7500.

7500 is too low.
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Old 09-20-2019, 12:45 PM   #1452
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Found out the uncomfortable way that I either need a surge tank or to never drive it hard below 1/4 tank:

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Old 09-20-2019, 02:00 PM   #1453
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reminds me of my youth in SAAB 900's hitting fuel cut.
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Old 09-20-2019, 02:00 PM   #1454
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That thing sounds sweet!
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Old 09-20-2019, 06:20 PM   #1455
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check your intake pump
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Old 09-20-2019, 11:37 PM   #1456
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check your intake pump
In-tank pump?
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Old 09-20-2019, 11:41 PM   #1457
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In-tank sucked in air. Needs a surge tank or to not get beat on under 1/4 tank. I turned on the fuel pressure failsafe feature on the ECU to avoid this happening in the future.
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Old 09-21-2019, 01:32 PM   #1458
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Originally Posted by Harlard View Post
In-tank sucked in air. Needs a surge tank or to not get beat on under 1/4 tank. I turned on the fuel pressure failsafe feature on the ECU to avoid this happening in the future.
hmm seems like this shouldn't happen imo on a stock fuel tank

Last edited by 77volvo245; 09-21-2019 at 01:39 PM..
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Old 09-21-2019, 06:18 PM   #1459
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hmm seems like this shouldn't happen imo on a stock fuel tank
Had issues with mine running lean at Davis on a full tank with the pumps in the sump. Moved the pumps to the open part of the tank and have 0 issues now just need to run the tank above 1/2 or else fuel slosh
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Old 09-22-2019, 02:57 AM   #1460
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Just do what we did on our Lemons car, Harald - get an ATL fuel cell with an integrated sump snork in the bladder floor, hook up one pump to that, then another with the inlet hose suspended up off the floor of the cell by 1" or so, and bury both pumps in the foam. Suck from the higher pump as your primary, then switch over to the secondary when you start to get hiccups in the high-speed sweepers. But when the reserve pump sucks dry - that's it - so you only have 3 or 4 laps of reserve time for us to get ready for the pit stop. Next driver SUIT UP!! Get the fuel bottles on deck, now!

Oh...sorry. Wrong context
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Old 09-22-2019, 12:22 PM   #1461
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The fuel must slosh out of the sump or the pumps suck it out faster than the fuel can come back in there. It only comes in there in that little hole in the bottom of the sump wall.
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Old 09-25-2019, 08:45 AM   #1462
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reminds me of my youth in SAAB 900's hitting fuel cut.
First thing that came to mind when I saw that video
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Old 09-25-2019, 12:18 PM   #1463
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Culberro came over a couple days ago with his compression tester. Had a normalish rush of air through the oil filler hole, then put my hand on it and heard gurgling from the radiator. Not great, but better than all other alternatives unless I melted the contact surface of the head...in which case I need to get looking for a replacement bottom head casting and send it off to Culberro Head Jobs to have the seats redone and the deck flattened before this thing can run again.

Aditionally I need to find an easier way to set base timing on this thing. It's very hard to stare at the TDC rib while holding a strobe light

Anyway, further confirmation of gasket failure:



As an aside, I think I'm going to have to invest in some form of individual runner EGT monitoring, at least something good enough to use at the dyno to trim the holes individually. The manifold is biasing the front 3 cylinders quite a bit. Not the worst thing ever with #4 being usually the hottest, but still. Oil residue is from leaky tube o-rings...at least this debacle gives me an excuse to deal with those (from left to right- 4, 3, 2, 1):

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Old 09-25-2019, 12:53 PM   #1464
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honestly, using spark plugs on a street car which sits in traffic and gets driven at part throttle a bunch as a method to tell how the engine is running is a joke...furthermore, you also can't really use it as a tell when there is a possibility of coolant entering any of the combustion chambers. Furthermore, that oil leaking from the spark plug tube seals can and will wick down the threads of the spark plugs...just furthering making "reading the plugs" useless. I would say to get everything running right before you start worrying about trimming individual cylinders on a street car...the gains from that will be minimal.
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Old 10-23-2019, 06:28 PM   #1465
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And if you need the bottom of a head, we have stuff in Marc's garage.
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Old 12-02-2019, 03:38 AM   #1466
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There is some updating to do in here. Found a pressure leak into the cooling system. Sent head off to a local machine shop for decking and pressure checking.RPessure check turned out OK but the head was out .005”. Back in it went, with the ASS mounts replaced for stockers, and a set of STS torque mount brackets along with an eBay “damper” that absorbs a bit more vibration than the solid rod. Good for me.

























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Old 12-02-2019, 03:45 AM   #1467
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At this point I was hoping to run R8 coils as they are strong enough to do what I need. Sadly they are too tall to fit the well cover and the primary coil impedance would have required a buffer circuit. Back to Rockauto they go. Next I will try some R35 GT-R coils, we’ll see whether the right tube length is available, what connector, and circuit specs. Having the engine bay a little less cluttered would be highly welcomed. Oh yeah, painted the strut tower bar, because why not.







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Old 12-02-2019, 03:52 AM   #1468
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Once the car was moving under its own power again I had to hustle end get a spare engine I had up for sale shipped to Santa Cruz, XC90 tire, couple ratchet straps, and a whole lot of freight wrap later, I loaded it up into a rental truck and off it went. Got to Tyler no problem.



















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Old 12-02-2019, 04:01 AM   #1469
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Torque wrench let me down. Harbor Freight is not a place to buy stuff that requires precision, I suppose. It was probably the reason the engine leaked compression in the first place. Live and learn, I suppose. Replaced it with a Tekton under more than one recommendation. Seems to do well: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C5ZL0RU

Pics of the reassembly (these things are kind of a pain in the ass, but it gets easier with repetition). Still leaks oil into one spark plug well and now out the valve cover on the downpipe…







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Old 12-02-2019, 04:02 AM   #1470
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Lifted this from a showroom thread:



Final numbers were 280hp at 6700 RPM and 240 lbs ft at 5200 at the wheels. 10 PSI (gate pressure) Fuel pressure was dropping after that. Has another 1000 rpm, more boost, and more timing in it.

Tuner suspects a fuel pump issue (AEM 320). I'll be swapping in a Walbro 450 with some bulkhead fittings and go from there.

[IMG]
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Old 12-02-2019, 08:24 AM   #1471
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Still leaks oil into one spark plug well and now out the valve cover on the downpipe…
Originating from the valve cover gasket?

I used Form-A-Gasket #3 on the valve cover gaskets with good results.
https://www.permatex.com/products/ga...ealant-liquid/
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Old 12-02-2019, 11:05 AM   #1472
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From the o-rings weirdly enough.

Did you replace the gasket with Permatex or did you use it as a dressing?

EDIT: can be used as either. Cool!

Last edited by Harlard; 12-02-2019 at 12:12 PM..
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Old 12-02-2019, 12:12 PM   #1473
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Darn, that's frustrating.

I used the Permatex as a gasket dressing.
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Old 12-02-2019, 12:32 PM   #1474
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Did you use the Volvo pink stuff or try to use the loctite product?
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Old 12-02-2019, 01:14 PM   #1475
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I used the Loctite. Same one Kenny uses. Can't remember the number off the top of my head.
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