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Old 10-29-2019, 04:24 PM   #1451
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Nothing much new to report on this. I still haven't bothered to run that disconnected hose up to the air cleaner yet - but so far, it doesn't really seem to be putting out oily air that I need to worry about much.

Mostly just doing some Autotune and boost. The map is needing lots more fuel at the top-right corner. Makes me think the DW300 might be running a bit short on capacity? I intentionally set the base fuel pressure a little lower to help it out (40 psi), I might lower that a bit more.

Yeah, it's pretty fun in cool/cold (40's) weather. 3rd spins fairly easily even in the dry once the boost hits. 4th gets to where it will hold pretty much all the 7 psi of boost I'm giving it so far.
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Old 11-19-2019, 10:25 AM   #1452
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We've had our first snow, the roads are salty still. So the only thing I did was spend a weekend rearranging the garage. It's a 1950's style 2 car garage, so it does fit two cars, but not with a lot of room to spare. So I rearranged stuff, made a spot for the 16V motor, got the PV in position to pull the motor, and stuck the 240 in, probably until spring. It's possible that it might rain well enough to clear the salt, and then be nice enough to drive it some before 'real' winter starts, but mostly, nope.

The only issue it's having now is some small leak from the PS system that I haven't looked at yet. If left parked, it will make a tiny slick of PS fluid. The feed line from the reservoir to the pump is 'sweating' fluid, I don't think it's sweating enough to make the leaks seen below, but it's clearly not the right kind of rubber hose. At all. Yeah, I think I was kind of in a 'git 'r dun' mode at that point. It might be old Volvo idle valve rubber hose. Yeah....

The only other thing I'd messed with recently other than testing and autotuning was to take off the rubber Volvo shifter boot to see if it would help with the issue of it popping out (veeeery gently) from 5th, and occasionally popping out of 4th. Turns out it really was the shifter boot causing that. The CBF Performance shifter is a contributing factor - because the detents that hold it in gear are very light. But with the boot off, it was staying in gear. I just need to replace it with something like a cloth boot that won't have any 'spring' to it.

Oh, and cold starting isn't great. Shocking. A Megasquirted car that is a bit iffy on cold starts. *shocking* Too lazy to mess with that, so it will likely persist.
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Old 11-19-2019, 10:30 AM   #1453
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I've been fighting power steering leaks fo4 5 years now. something about a volvo crimped power steering line vs having one modified just isn't the same.
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Old 03-02-2020, 12:39 PM   #1454
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Pulled it out of the garage over the weekend, just to get a look at what's going on with the PS leak. It's that random bit of hose I'd used between the reservoir and the pump inlet. It's been 'sweating' fluid, now it's leaking where it's clamped onto the pump. It just needs to go. So I need a couple of feet of 19/32 (15mm) ID PS hose. Shouldn't be a problem, right? Oy, went to 4 different auto parts store, nobody had anything. One had 5/8" return line, but I figured being a little too big wasn't a good thing for a rubber hose. One place was out. Returned empty-handed and put it back in the garage, and fired up the internets, I'll replace it next week. And clean up the huge freaking mess. On the plus side, I didn't see any other leaks.

Salt's all gone here, spring is peeping (literally, frogs were out this weekend), it's time for this thing to hit the road again.
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Old 03-02-2020, 02:14 PM   #1455
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mine leaks ps fluid out the top. brand new cap. whatevs.
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Old 03-03-2020, 12:03 AM   #1456
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Had the hydraulic shop recrimp the ferrels on my high pressure hose. Hope that fixes it for 3rd and final time. Only plus side to leaks is you always have fresh clean fluid in the rack.
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Old 03-05-2020, 12:16 PM   #1457
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Hose arrived in the mail. I got some sort of BMW E46 hose, seemed to have all the right bends, about the right length, and a nice braided protective sleeve as well. And cheap.

Installed it, added fluid, started it up, no drips. Woot.
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Old 03-05-2020, 09:46 PM   #1458
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Hose arrived in the mail. I got some sort of BMW E46 hose, seemed to have all the right bends, about the right length, and a nice braided protective sleeve as well. And cheap.

Installed it, added fluid, started it up, no drips. Woot.
give it time
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Old 04-28-2020, 09:53 AM   #1459
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I may have blowed up the cheap Chineseium turbo on it already. I was farting around with it yesterday, usual 'wow 500 hp is fun' shens, when it started blowing a bunch of oil smoke out. Pulled over and the first thing I noticed was that the vent line from the turbo drain surge tank.

Due to packaging constraints - I have a gravity drain from the turbo down to a 1L surge tank, with a Turbonetics oil pump returning oil up to the oil cap/valve cover. The surge tank has a vent line that is hooked to the air cleaner - and that line had puked a modest amount of oil onto the foam filter. So I assumed that was the cause of the oil smoke.

I first thought the drain pump had failed - but it seemed to be working fine. Just working through oil sucked into the intake? Maybe - but I pulled off the cold side pipe at the throttle body and it was dry there - no oil at all - so the oil spit up on the filter wasn't enough to be causing the smoke.

So then I pulled off the air cleaner and could see the nut on the compressor wheel wiggling around. It's not *quite* touching the housing, but its way looser than it should be.

So I'm guessing the turbo went, and I go some pressure (exhaust or compressor) blown into the center section and through into the surge tank - which puffed some oil onto the oil cleaner. And now it's just pissing some oil out into the exhaust.
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Old 04-29-2020, 06:54 AM   #1460
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnMc View Post
I may have blowed up the cheap Chineseium turbo on it already. I was farting around with it yesterday, usual 'wow 500 hp is fun' shens, when it started blowing a bunch of oil smoke out. Pulled over and the first thing I noticed was that the vent line from the turbo drain surge tank.

Due to packaging constraints - I have a gravity drain from the turbo down to a 1L surge tank, with a Turbonetics oil pump returning oil up to the oil cap/valve cover. The surge tank has a vent line that is hooked to the air cleaner - and that line had puked a modest amount of oil onto the foam filter. So I assumed that was the cause of the oil smoke.

I first thought the drain pump had failed - but it seemed to be working fine. Just working through oil sucked into the intake? Maybe - but I pulled off the cold side pipe at the throttle body and it was dry there - no oil at all - so the oil spit up on the filter wasn't enough to be causing the smoke.

So then I pulled off the air cleaner and could see the nut on the compressor wheel wiggling around. It's not *quite* touching the housing, but its way looser than it should be.

So I'm guessing the turbo went, and I go some pressure (exhaust or compressor) blown into the center section and through into the surge tank - which puffed some oil onto the oil cleaner. And now it's just pissing some oil out into the exhaust.
Time for a Borg & Warner!
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Old 04-29-2020, 09:01 AM   #1461
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I really did think long and hard about another EFR for it - the one I have for the 16V is of course too small, but an 8374 would probably work. But they're $2500. I decided to toss a slightly nicer $500 chineisium turbo on it - a dual ball bearing version of the same T76.

And of course, I'll just end up getting the EFR later on when this one blows up...
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Old 04-29-2020, 10:09 AM   #1462
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnMc View Post
I really did think long and hard about another EFR for it - the one I have for the 16V is of course too small, but an 8374 would probably work. But they're $2500. I decided to toss a slightly nicer $500 chineisium turbo on it - a dual ball bearing version of the same T76.

And of course, I'll just end up getting the EFR later on when this one blows up...
I've heard good things about people buying a chineisium turbo putting it together using a genuine Garrett rebuild kit and getting it balanced.
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the only problem with that is what you define as cheap and fast
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Old 04-29-2020, 10:47 AM   #1463
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why don't you just get a large s300 frame turbo?
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Old 04-29-2020, 10:51 AM   #1464
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This time around I'm getting a turbo that will slide right in where the current one is - with no rework of the DP or intercooler piping needed.

Just being lazy. Annd cheap.

That always works out well...
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Old 04-29-2020, 10:52 AM   #1465
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vwbusman66 View Post
I've heard good things about people buying a chineisium turbo putting it together using a genuine Garrett rebuild kit and getting it balanced.
No such thing for ball bearing turbos.

Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnMc View Post
This time around I'm getting a turbo that will slide right in where the current one is - with no rework of the DP or intercooler piping needed.

Just being lazy. Annd cheap.

That always works out well...
You may want to look at VSracing.
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Old 04-29-2020, 10:54 AM   #1466
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No such thing for ball bearing turbos.
Yep. Too early.
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Old 04-29-2020, 11:55 AM   #1467
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Quote:
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This time around I'm getting a turbo that will slide right in where the current one is - with no rework of the DP or intercooler piping needed.

Just being lazy. Annd cheap.

That always works out well...
you can get one of the fancy billet wheel S372SXE for under $900 and have an awesome turbo which will last....
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Old 04-29-2020, 06:37 PM   #1468
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you can get one of the fancy billet wheel S372SXE for under $900 and have an awesome turbo which will last....
+1
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Old 05-12-2020, 05:47 PM   #1469
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New slightly better cheap dual ball bearing turbo is in. Still a T76 .96AR, but a Q-trim instead of a P-trim.

Yeah, silly fun and fast.
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Old 06-02-2020, 02:26 PM   #1470
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Went to start it yesterday and it cranked, no attempt to fire. Then I noticed the fuel pumps (and oil scavenge pump) weren't priming. Turned on the laptop to see, and the MS isn't powering up either.

Well... probably something pretty basic. I just didn't feel like messing with it yesterday. Or today, so far. I guess it's either the non-switched 12V (a new wire run straight to one of the late 93 fuses on the battery terminal), or the switched 12V which is still going through the original Volvo dual relay - that original white relay. Heh, I wonder which one it is.
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Old 06-02-2020, 03:58 PM   #1471
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plus auf masse, das funkt klasse ;)
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Old 06-02-2020, 10:40 PM   #1472
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Ahhhh yes.... stock pcm cranks every time
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Old 06-03-2020, 09:14 AM   #1473
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OEM or bust! Hah.
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Old 06-08-2020, 12:11 PM   #1474
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Not great news, really. Well, not terrible news either. I thought I was being extra diligent in soldering all of the harness connections hooking the new pre-made GoldBox engine harness to the car. And because it was working SO FREAKING GREAT I was using some acid flux solder I had laying around. BEAUTIFUL solder joints, so wet and juicy and clean and flowed. Then I'd slide shrink wrap over it and OMG SO NEAT AND TIDY!!!


Turns out I should probably have read up about using acid flux on automotive wiring. Apparently it can corrode copper over time. Especially if it gets hot and sucks up inside the wiring insulation, or is held in against the wiring by shrink wrap. What I found yesterday were several failed solder joints where the copper wiring near the solder joints had turned into a gray crumbly powder. Sometimes extending an inch or so into the insulation on either side.

On the plus side, there really aren't a HUGE number of solder joints I need to cut out and replace, I'd be a bit more depressed if I'd built the whole engine harness and had them EVERYWHERE. There's just maybe 20 or so of them in the passenger footwell.
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Old 06-08-2020, 12:33 PM   #1475
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Hmmm...



Snip out the existing corroding solder joint, stip, slide this on, a little heat gun action, JOB DONE!
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