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Old 04-12-2020, 04:40 PM   #1
89_740Turbo
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Default Fitting Garrett T3 to 90+ Manifold

My cylinder head gasket seems to be going and is leaking coolant somewhere. I think into the motor since after it's warmed up, the car is burning coolant out the exhaust. It's definitely not burning oil smelling.

I picked up a turbo cylinder head as well as a 90+ manifold. Ontop of this I have a rebuilt and refurbished Garrett T3 turbo. I intended to reuse another pre 90s manifold but since I picked up this 90+ for free I might as well use it but I have a few questions.

The T3 doesn't exactly fit flat onto the manifold so I know either the manifold or the turbo hotside will need to be machined to have it lay flat onto one another. My guess is the manifold needs to be machined. Any ideas?

Additionally, I spoke to my friend Dave about all of this. The 90 manifold has a different size stud than what fits into the T3. Has anyone looked into it and have numbers on paper?

Lastly. I know the 90 manifold will slightly position the turbo in a different spot than before, which I confirmed with Dave. What braided lines have you or anyone used to mitigate this issue so the T3 can be hooked up and work great.

Thank you
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Old 04-12-2020, 04:46 PM   #2
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As far as milling it flat I had good luck cutting the lip off the manifold with an angle grinder, should save a few bucks
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Old 04-12-2020, 04:54 PM   #3
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free picture upload

Be aware if you grind it flat you'll be looking at this, you should open that up too
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Old 04-12-2020, 04:58 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by Wilford Brimley View Post
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Be aware if you grind it flat you'll be looking at this, you should open that up too
Where did you get that adapter plate from. My T3 gas a round inlet, not square like that. Interesting
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Old 04-12-2020, 05:00 PM   #5
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Its just a metal gasket, shows the t3 foot print. I ground that flat and opened up that hole
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Old 04-12-2020, 05:02 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by Wilford Brimley View Post
Its just a metal gasket, shows the t3 foot print. I ground that flat and opened up that hole
Interesting. Have you mounted the t3 to it yet? How does it fit
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Old 04-12-2020, 05:04 PM   #7
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I've done this like 4 times. The studs are a little small
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Old 04-12-2020, 05:05 PM   #8
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Old 04-12-2020, 05:28 PM   #9
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Quote:
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Really appreciate your insight. Are you just reusing the studs that came with the 90 manifold? And what oil return/feed lines are you using
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Old 04-12-2020, 06:04 PM   #10
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Using kingua oil feed drain stuff from ebay
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Old 04-12-2020, 06:06 PM   #11
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And yeah using the studs with some washers
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Old 04-12-2020, 06:36 PM   #12
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The 90+ manifold does not need to be milled flat. It has the same raised lip as the older manifold. What you do need is if you plan on using the 90+ manifold are step studs. It's a stud that goes from m8 to m10. The extra weight of turbo is better supported by a larger stud. Here is link to step studs. https://www.amazon.com/10-M10-Double.../dp/B00KCBLI12
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Old 04-12-2020, 06:58 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wilford Brimley View Post
Using kingua oil feed drain stuff from ebay
What AN are you using. -10 or -12
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Old 04-12-2020, 07:00 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by white855T View Post
The 90+ manifold does not need to be milled flat. It has the same raised lip as the older manifold. What you do need is if you plan on using the 90+ manifold are step studs. It's a stud that goes from m8 to m10. The extra weight of turbo is better supported by a larger stud. Here is link to step studs. https://www.amazon.com/10-M10-Double.../dp/B00KCBLI12
Really appreciate it. That's one less thing off the list. As far as not needing to be flat, maybe there is just gunk in the way because it doesn't sit exactly flat. Have you ever ported your manifold too by the way? Thinking about that while it's off but unsure if it would really make that much of a difference since I'm already going from pre 90 to post 90
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Old 04-13-2020, 11:00 AM   #15
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You could send it to Yoshifab and they will mill it, port it, and thread for 10MM studs.

https://yoshifab.com/store/volvo-man...n-service.html
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Old 04-13-2020, 11:08 AM   #16
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Here is my 90+ that Josh updated. He milled it flat and then opened it up.
Attached Images
File Type: jpeg B4CCFC5D-5064-4164-B39C-94D9B6C2D637.jpeg (36.9 KB, 159 views)
File Type: jpeg E4F7CDFA-F85C-409D-B90B-5806FFD6315A.jpeg (48.5 KB, 160 views)
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Old 04-13-2020, 01:03 PM   #17
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You don't have to mill the manifold flat.

https://www.atpturbo.com

I also opened up the exit hole in the flange and blended it into the runners.
I did it all by hand with a die grinder, it would be much easier to plunge cut the corners in a mill then smooth out with a die grinder.

I drilled out the manifold stud holes and tapped them for 10mm studs.
This was easier than I expected.

A 3" V band outlet eliminates the restrictive stock exhaust.

https://www.atpturbo.com
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Old 04-13-2020, 01:19 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dirty Rick View Post
You don't have to mill the manifold flat.

https://www.atpturbo.com

I also opened up the exit hole in the flange and blended it into the runners.
I did it all by hand with a die grinder, it would be much easier to plunge cut the corners in a mill then smooth out with a die grinder.

I drilled out the manifold stud holes and tapped them for 10mm studs.
This was easier than I expected.

A 3" V band outlet eliminates the restrictive stock exhaust.

https://www.atpturbo.com
May have to send it to Josh since that adapter is out of stock with no eta though the adapter seems like a more efficient way to do it too.

What I dont understand is why mill away this


if it fits directly into the lip here

Last edited by 89_740Turbo; 04-13-2020 at 01:41 PM..
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Old 04-13-2020, 01:44 PM   #19
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If your turbine housing has the matching step in it there is no reason to flatten the manifold.

You cant just pull a flat turbine housing up to that raised circle as it will warp the housing when it gets hot.

I've seen the turbine housing and down pipe glow. Like one time when the MAP sensor hose popped off and it went full rich.
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Old 04-13-2020, 02:04 PM   #20
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Your T3 hot side is different than mine. Mine T3 was flat and did not have threads.
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Old 04-13-2020, 02:04 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dirty Rick View Post
If your turbine housing has the matching step in it there is no reason to flatten the manifold.

You cant just pull a flat turbine housing up to that raised circle as it will warp the housing when it gets hot.

I've seen the turbine housing and down pipe glow. Like one time when the MAP sensor hose popped off and it went full rich.
I never intended to machine the hotside turbo housing inlet flat and mount it up to the raised lip on the 90. I guess since mine has both lips that fit into one another, there isn't a point in machining anything other than a resurface touch up to make them fit nicely
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Old 04-13-2020, 02:05 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rb92673 View Post
Your T3 hot side is different than mine. Mine T3 was flat and did not have threads.
Yea this is a weird T3. Cant find p/n's or s/n's for it anywhere online which is why I made this thread to help gather answers. Like what oil return and feed lines to use since the 90+ will move the position of the turbo after installation.
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Old 04-13-2020, 02:17 PM   #23
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Yoshi sells a #10 AN adapter that fits the block and APT sells the other end that mounts to the turbo.
A foot of #10 hose and 2 hose ends rounds out the parts list.
I added 2 of the heat resistant jackets for spark plug wires to cover the drain hose to prevent the hose from being cooked.

Or this? https://www.atpturbo.com
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Old 04-13-2020, 02:43 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 89_740Turbo View Post
I never intended to machine the hotside turbo housing inlet flat and mount it up to the raised lip on the 90. I guess since mine has both lips that fit into one another, there isn't a point in machining anything other than a resurface touch up to make them fit nicely
That lip is the seal and keeps the fire away from the outer edge of the flange.
I would not do anything to the surfaces except remove any previous gasket remains.
Maybe lightly stone it to show/knock off any high spots.
Do not use high speed rotary tools to clean these surfaces or you WILL need gaskets.
I do not use any gaskets on good flanges.
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Old 04-13-2020, 03:31 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 89_740Turbo View Post
Yea this is a weird T3. Cant find p/n's or s/n's for it anywhere online which is why I made this thread to help gather answers. Like what oil return and feed lines to use since the 90+ will move the position of the turbo after installation.
Do you have a turbo block? If so, I used this:
https://yoshifab.com/store/turbo-red...rsion-kit.html
and this:
https://yoshifab.com/store/turbo-red...ett-turbo.html

You can piece the return line together yourself with ebay and Summit Racing AN fittings.
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