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Old 03-07-2020, 10:57 AM   #51
klr142
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Originally Posted by SquareD View Post
Wow! That’s a deal! I just wish they had space for washers behind the adjustment bolts to prevent digging into the aluminum.

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Originally Posted by redblockpowered View Post
What the people really want to know is T cam vs. M cam.

(I'm the people)

Folks on here like to talk about putting a T cam in an NA car like it's some kind of secret upgrade but looking at what my dad and I have measured for both I really can't see how the M wouldn't be a mild upgrade from the T.

Or just throw an IPD Turbo cam in there and be done with it. That would be good too.
An M would be an upgrade for a turbo car, but so mild that is it really worth swapping? Where as the T in an NA car makes it a “torque monster” at lower rpm. So, for those that have an auto, or tow, or never rev past 5k rpm, it’s better. My ‘87 244 auto did a 17.3 instead of a 17.6 with a T cam shimmed tight and retarded 4 degrees compared to a similarly setup M.

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Didn't Nick mess with cam timing on the Dyno? Think he ended up with straight up making the most power
Yes, with a B cam in a basically stock NA setup. That doesn’t mean it’s the best for every setup and cam, though.
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Old 03-07-2020, 01:16 PM   #52
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Didn't Nick mess with cam timing on the Dyno? Think he ended up with straight up making the most power
I can tell you that we've messed with cam timing on the dyno and straight up is the money shot.
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Old 03-07-2020, 01:18 PM   #53
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If an M is a measured upgrade for the T, does that mean the M might actually have value beyond $14.99, shipped?
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Old 03-07-2020, 09:52 PM   #54
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Originally Posted by klr142 View Post
Wow! That’s a deal! I just wish they had space for washers behind the adjustment bolts to prevent digging into the aluminum.
I was on the first group buy and mentioned that issue. He eventually sent me special washers for those slots.
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Old 03-12-2020, 03:50 PM   #55
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Do you have an NPR intercooler on hand for the upgrade?

If not, PM me (I have one).
I don't. Haven't quite made up my mind about how I'm going to handle the intercooler upgrade

gonna try the ol tune-ero first, just gotta get time. two swarms in two days have kept me out of the shop when I normally would've had plenty of time
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Old 04-16-2020, 10:16 AM   #56
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wow. a month.

I have not had a chance to do much with this (or any of the other projects, ran into a small problem with the gold car and that's about the last time I turned a wrench on anything gas powered). hopefully I can get the lh tuning stuff plugged in for a weekend zoom sesh

Last edited by linuxman51; 04-16-2020 at 10:33 AM.. Reason: stupid cat
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Old 04-16-2020, 10:33 AM   #57
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whew that was a fast month of little to no car activity. I would've thought I'da had an abundance of time to play with toys in the shop, so far.. well.. that's a story for another place.

I'm gonna see if I can get it set up to tune for the zoom-meet to have something interesting and yet quiet on the rollers (my other options are not evening-safe: the gold car, or tom's white 300 with open longtubes)

On a slightly different note, I was contacted by a company to do some product testing and reviews, I'm sure many of yall will be familiar with them: https://www.maxpeedingrods.com/

specifically, these guys:
https://www.maxpeedingrods.com/Volvo...-Con-Rods.html

I gotta track down a suitable replacement bottom end for the black car (it's got the slappy slappy, no sense in wasting good rods in worn bores) to install those in. As part of that deal, there will be a detailed writeup and lots of pictures. I may reach out to yoshifab and see about getting his magic touch done on an engine I've got sitting in the corner (sleeved back to stock and stock replacement forged pistons), or I may dial up a used lower mileage unit and call it a day. I may do both since I have a habit of breaking things, and an extra setup in the corner might not be the worst idea. could always use it with the gold car as well. hmm. stop that.
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Old 04-16-2020, 01:30 PM   #58
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Heck I'm already doing that, Maxspeed rods at 20psi!

They were cheaper and quicker that getting the old rods re-bushed.

I found some real bad poo poo on the old rods (I don't know who made the old rods, H beam shot peened ARP bolts), the bushing holes were bored so rough in the rods there were voids behind the bushing, which may have contributed to their being oversized. Crappy tooling, worn cutter, high feed rate, non-precision MFg, etc. They all seem to use a non-standard bushing that has to be custom made.

So have them send you an extra rod for destructive testing.... Push the bushing out and see what the hidden machine work looks like.
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Old 04-16-2020, 01:46 PM   #59
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yeah I have every confidence they'll work out great. may have sourced an engine somewhat locally, waiting to hear back on mileage, etc.
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Old 04-16-2020, 09:57 PM   #60
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I was contacted by a company to do some product testing and reviews
Ha, I got that message too. They must know the red car's engine is slowly inflating a glove
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Old 04-17-2020, 03:50 AM   #61
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Love this type of stuff.
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Old 04-17-2020, 03:53 AM   #62
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Love this type of stuff!
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Old 04-19-2020, 10:15 AM   #63
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aight so we did this thing on the dyno last night. it started off.. suspect, got set aside, and then came back around. All I really had time to do for preparation is get the software installed and plug in the ostrich-equipped lh box.. so.. fuel map fiddling was the name of the game. We did successfully get it to run 13:1 out the top (no lie it went from like.. 11:1 to 13:1 over one revision.. I'll get that fixed before I take off down the road, but most of that was above 5k, so meh). Didn't pick up a ton of power, but stock exhaust probably has something to do with that. If I think about it over the next few days I'll pop the downpipe loose and run it a couple times to see what's up (and stack fuel back in up top, 13:1 is a bit... saucey)
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Old 04-19-2020, 04:50 PM   #64
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I’m curious, but it’s very possible it’s not worth the time, would you be willing to bother with checking and tightening the valve clearances before the next runs? Maybe also popping an adjustable cam gear on there to try retarded 4 degrees from stock?
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Old 04-20-2020, 08:41 AM   #65
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I'd have to dig up a cam gear to do that. trying to shift the T cam up in the band?
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Old 04-20-2020, 10:33 AM   #66
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I'd have to dig up a cam gear to do that. trying to shift the T cam up in the band?
Why not advance it 4 degrees to make peak torque at idle?
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the only problem with that is what you define as cheap and fast
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Old 04-20-2020, 11:01 AM   #67
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Heck I'm already doing that, Maxspeed rods at 20psi!

They were cheaper and quicker than getting the old rods re-bushed.
Hah, I did the same thing when my 16V motor broke a wristpin. Perhaps the least destructive wristpin breakage ever, but it did chew up the wristpin bushing. And it seemed easier and likely cheaper to just buy a new set of rods than have my machine shop try to do something custom (they pressed out the old one and were stumped on how to replace it otherwise).

I didn't like the looks of the bolts on the new rods, so I just used the ARP bolts of my previous rods.
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Old 04-20-2020, 01:46 PM   #68
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I'd have to dig up a cam gear to do that. trying to shift the T cam up in the band?
Yes. Doing just the cam retard may not make much difference, but if your valve clearances are loose, I'd be curious how much it picks up between going tight and the retardation.
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Old 04-24-2020, 11:18 AM   #69
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https://youtu.be/VC8EOlwi3MI

new video, somewhat amusing results. fattened it up a bit with the open dp (since it was lean and all), power went up a little bit. I'll have to go back and look at the numbers we got last weekend, since I don't recall off the top of my head.
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Old 04-30-2020, 01:27 PM   #70
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Aight, brief segue on internal components:

https://youtu.be/GjyZWYS-ku0

TL,DW:
MaXpeeding rods sent me a set to review and test, complete with arp hardware. These are stock replacement h-beams (meaning: still piston steered, stock length), all in all a very nice offering at a good price point esp when you combine them with the various coupons they have. If you wanted the bigger/stronger rod bolts, they do offer an upgrade to L19 bolts, but the normal 3/8's have served me well over the years, so I don't have any qualms about them in this application.

I'll have a bigger writeup in showroom since it's more geared towards that, as I haven't yet tracked down an engine (and/or don't have it in hand) to setup and swap into the wagon. I suppose there's nothing stopping me from swapping them into the current engine except that it's already a bit 'loose' sounding, and that seems like a bit of a duplication of efforts there lol.

Anyway, link for the rods is below, there's also a coolguy coupon code that works site-wide. They do have other things (including cheap turbos)

Coupon: linuxman--8% off for all orders over 200USD
Rods link: https://bit.ly/3aDvdBh

/salespitch

That's about it for updates since the last video, been working on the dyno and that side of the shop, and I think everyone got their covid checks and wants to see numbers, as I've gotten a sudden influx in interest to dyno and/or get tuned. Good problem to have?
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Old 04-30-2020, 01:56 PM   #71
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w00! Stay safe, sir! And cam swap! Hah
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Old 04-30-2020, 08:39 PM   #72
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Wow those are cheap
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Old 04-30-2020, 09:13 PM   #73
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Wow those are cheap
Peeding is quite affordable these days.
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Old 05-20-2020, 09:08 AM   #74
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minor follow-up: tested a P&P ms on the car this past weekend (for the zoom session), the install portion took a generous ~hour (mostly me walking around the shop looking for various odds and ends. after that, it ran fairly easily with a few minor hiccups... but for some reason it just.... goes full lean at 4k in 2nd gear, despite the pw's being the same for the same load in 1st and 1st gear indicates almost too rich (it does it if I pull fuel out as well, so it doesn't appear to just be a case of fuel loading, though maybe...). pops out the intake and everything.

I did however get to play around with a couple different crank rpm pickup settings, so that's going to further the development of the p&p stuff, but currently I kinda have to think the issue is related to the car and not the system, however I will say that I can swap the tuned lh box and stock ezk and the car pulls out fine, so there is that. Haven't had a lot of time to play with it since saturday.. monday night I tried the old method of rpm triggering (with just an ezk connector and jumper wires), the car did seem to run better with that.

I'll try and get some video later of all the shenanigans, but in the mean time I gotta get the customer's box out the door.
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Old 05-20-2020, 11:13 AM   #75
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