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Old 05-12-2020, 01:43 AM   #51
t8fanning
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Originally Posted by turbojose View Post
Hello friend... I'm hoping to make 500 to 600 HP with or without nitrous... I know i should have a better idea for overall HP but my focus in the long term is a 10.99 ET at the drags... I should probably weigh the car soon, and include other items like: I'm running an GM automatic transmision (700R4) with a 4000 stall converter and the rear end gear ratio is 391.

I'm still in the early stages of the new block build but I hoping to get some baseline testing in a month or so, and then lay down some projections.
I would get a Xona XR7164S or an EFR 8374. I think you will eventually want more power and those will give you some head room from your original goal. I have an EFR 7670 and wish I had a little more, and i only have a 2.3l 8v. You'll want more turbo with the stroker and 16v.

http://xonarotor.com/product/xr-7164s-x2c/

http://www.turbos.borgwarner.com/fil...R%208374-D.pdf

Also, I'd get a Maxxecu or an AEM infinity. While the MS3pro is sufficient to do what you want to, it's not as nice and could potentially limit you in the future. I've got the MS3pro and it's tapped, but I still want some more I/O and additional features.
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Old 05-12-2020, 03:21 PM   #52
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I agree, if you're going to do a new ecu and harness...dump the MS products. While they work decently, there are a lot better products out there for nearly the same money.
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Old 05-12-2020, 07:30 PM   #53
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I agree, if you're going to do a new ecu and harness...dump the MS products. While they work decently, there are a lot better products out there for nearly the same money.
Wow... I haven't even considered another ECU.... what are you guys using these days.
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Old 05-13-2020, 03:42 PM   #54
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Link and Maxxecu are the hot thing these days.
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My knob has a big chunk of steel on it
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Old 05-13-2020, 03:56 PM   #55
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Link and Maxxecu are the hot thing these days.
Don't forget about the ECU Masters EMU Black. Lots of accessories available as well.

https://ecumasterusa.com/products/ec...=8318139039805
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Old 05-17-2020, 12:23 AM   #56
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How screwed am I.... so I decided to install the deeWorks freeze plug retainers today... only I had no instructions, and didn't have the bottom-tap that came with the kit... Having only limited experience with tapping a hole, I proceeded to drill and tap as i had done before... only after about the 5th hole of 16... I suddenly drilled completely through the casting into the water jacket. Oh Sh!t. now my question is... with a hole drilled all the way into the water jacket, am I going to run into problems with water leaks or can i just add some high temp silicone and screw in the retainer screw. I'm starting to think i should just get another block. Help.
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Old 05-17-2020, 12:30 AM   #57
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Made the same mistake on my block when drilling one of the retainer screw holes. Used some thread sealant on that screw and have had no issues/leaks.
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Old 05-17-2020, 12:34 AM   #58
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https://www.summitracing.com/parts/arp-100-9904

No worries, just use something like this on the threads.
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Old 05-17-2020, 01:19 AM   #59
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https://www.summitracing.com/parts/arp-100-9904

No worries, just use something like this on the threads.
Thank you so much for the reply. Thatís going to help me sleep tonight. 👍
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Old 05-17-2020, 01:20 AM   #60
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Made the same mistake on my block when drilling one of the retainer screw holes. Used some thread sealant on that screw and have had no issues/leaks.
Thank you for the reply. Thatís going to help me sleep tonight. I was sick to my stomach.
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Old 05-17-2020, 01:44 PM   #61
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You can also use yellow Rectorseal PTFE paste to seal the screw threads. It also works on temp sensors, it also works with oil and gas. Seriously good product for a few dollars.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/RectorSe...5790/100144191
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Old 05-17-2020, 05:34 PM   #62
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You can also use yellow Rectorseal PTFE paste to seal the screw threads. It also works on temp sensors, it also works with oil and gas. Seriously good product for a few dollars.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/RectorSe...5790/100144191
do either of these products have issues with heat?
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Old 05-18-2020, 12:40 PM   #63
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do either of these products have issues with heat?
Not in my experience. I've been RectorSeal #5 on redblocks and other motors for years. Still soft/pliable after being in contact with 250F+ coolant.

It also works with a wide range of fluids:
https://cdn1-originals.webdamdb.com/...ASI2IOLRFF2RHA
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Old 05-18-2020, 07:49 PM   #64
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Link and Maxxecu are the hot thing these days.
This. I was between a Link box and Maxxecu when deciding for my whiteblock project. They are both comparable, but you will find more tuners for Link in the US.
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Old 05-18-2020, 08:20 PM   #65
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there's plenty of variation in the thickness of the casting on the water jacket, I had a few pop through when I drilled the freeze plugs. Blue Loc-tite, no leaks... 3 years now I think?
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Old 05-18-2020, 09:13 PM   #66
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Finally got up the courage to continue on drilling... got all 16 holes drilled and a total of 4 that went all the way into the water jacket... I ended up using the PTFE yellow tube purchased from Home Depot. I also had two tragedies where the Tap broke in a hole... I wasn't able to remove the broken tap, so I just twisted the retainer a few degrees and drilled 2 more holes.... so now I have 4 poc marks next to two of the plugs.... but at least those two holes didn't go all the way through. at the end of the day... all threaded and installed... thank you for all of the encouragement and tips. On to the next steps. I hope this isn't a sign of more tragedy to come... LOL
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Old 05-18-2020, 11:08 PM   #67
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Glad you got past that part!
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Old 05-23-2020, 08:08 PM   #68
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Update.... Motor doesn't have a rod knock... and now that makes me mad for not discovering before hand but also happy that I still have a good usable short block... SO... The knocking sound was a broken Flex plate. I broke one before when installed properly, and recently I did a trans swap that that may have caused it. either way, I'm still moving forward with the 2.5L swap. out with the stock volvo '94 bottom end and in with the new all forged internals. and what the hell while i'm at it, it will still get the upgraded yoshi cams, and the MS3-pro in place of the MS2 I built. other upgrades will be a new turbo Header, and possibly a turbo upgrade. I will post pics of the flex plate once I have it out in the next few days.
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Old 05-24-2020, 09:21 PM   #69
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went the hard way to change the flywheel.... pull the trans... nah just pull the motor and put in a new motor...lol.

anyone got a good source for all of the engine sensor connectors? The New MS3-pro is on the way, and I want to solder up a new harness.

looking for Bosch style injector connectors with pic tails
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and LS coil pic tails.
UntitledUntitled

but could use a lot of others. like the TPS sensor, and knock sensor, and IAC motor.

Last edited by turbojose; 05-24-2020 at 09:36 PM..
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Old 05-24-2020, 09:51 PM   #70
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Davebarton.com has the injector plug kits, if you don't know exactly which one, email him through the website and he will hook ya up.

I haven't had to buy LS plugs since I got a complete stand alone harness.
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Old 05-24-2020, 10:02 PM   #71
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2turbotoys View Post
Davebarton.com has the injector plug kits, if you don't know exactly which one, email him through the website and he will hook ya up.

I haven't had to buy LS plugs since I got a complete stand alone harness.
thank you for the heads up...
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Old 05-24-2020, 11:37 PM   #72
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Prowire has just about everything you’d ever need. They even have numbering lots in heat shrink for that fancy boy harness.
https://prowireusa.com/

Also, don’t use pig tail connectors. They usually look like trash and take longer.
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Old 05-25-2020, 07:21 PM   #73
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weekend update... I got the head pulled from the car... (pulling a head in a 240 is a MF) as confirmed... the rods are good. no bent rods. and head gasket looks good. Looks like I may have a 94 short block for sale soon, with stock pistons already fly cut for 16v. I ran out of steam today... but I will find time to remove the short block from the car, and swap in the new 2.5L this week. then I will start with the re assembly and installation of the new ECU and all the other goodies. Pics coming soon.
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Old 05-25-2020, 07:30 PM   #74
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one thing i need help from the 16v guys... it looks like when I originally installed the head... 7 years ago... i apparently put a little too much sealer between the cam carier and the Head... and it looks like the number one intake journal on the cam ran a little dry.... i wont make the same mistake when I re install, but I'm wondering If i need to look at getting the cam journal turned or should I just run it.

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cam still looks good though.

Untitled

Last edited by turbojose; 05-25-2020 at 07:53 PM.. Reason: added pics
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Old 05-26-2020, 01:44 PM   #75
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It's common for the intake cam journals to get a little haggard from lack of lubrication. The head biases oil to the exhaust side first, which is also the "downhill" cam that's mostly submerged in oil.
I like to run an external oil feed to the rear of the head, on the intake side. Super easy to do while the head is off.

Grab some 300-400grit sand paper and lightly sand the cap and journal. Clean it all up, and then lay the camshaft in the journals of the upper head section... with no caps on. How much can the cam rock when pushing the cyl1 side into the journal and then cyl4 side into the journal? Rotate the cam 90deg and repeat, rotate & rock, rotate & rock. How much rock was there? Is it consistent with the rotations? One side worse than the other? Stock cams aren't that straight in my experience, and can cause slight wear issues.
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