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Old 05-16-2020, 11:33 PM   #301
2turbotoys
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Thanks! Slow progress is better than no progress I guess
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Feedback thread https://forums.tbforums.com/showthread.php?t=144924

1978 242, 5.3 L33
1979 242, MS, R brakes
2006 V50 T5 AWD @ 17 PSI
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Old 05-18-2020, 09:22 PM   #302
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New valve covers, coils, coil brackets, plugs, wires, boots installed today. Still waiting on the parts for the PCV system.



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Old 05-19-2020, 12:00 PM   #303
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Recaro LX Bs - 16" ARE 398s - 25/25 Sway Bars - Bilstein HDs - SuperPro Poly/STS Derlin Bushings - MSD - R Sport Wheel

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Old 05-19-2020, 12:24 PM   #304
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Nice work, looks really clean
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Old 05-19-2020, 08:50 PM   #305
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Thanks guys! I figured out the radiator hoses today, and did some engine wiring. Somehow I missed that I have a 8 pin throttle body plug but a 6 pin throttle body...guess I need the expensive adapter cable.

Hydroboost unit showed up today Unfortunately it did not come with the pushrod assembly, so I have to find that somewhere.

I posted the results of the rad hoses in my other thread, but will repeat it here to keep everything in one spot.
Upper radiator hose: 1998 S10 upper rad hose, trimmed at both ends
Lower rad hose: Jeep CJ7 6 cyl lower rad hose
Steam vent: Porsche 944 Turbo reservoir hose







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Old 05-21-2020, 09:41 PM   #306
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The solution to not having a PCV on the valve covers showed up, Earls baffled oil cap and Radium swivel.



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Old 08-22-2020, 10:29 PM   #307
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Well, that didn't work. The Earls cap fits cast Holley valve covers, not fabricated ones. Fabricated valve covers have a M32x2 thread, which apparently is unique and no one makes anything that fits that. Guess I will be drilling holes in the valve covers to ventilate the crankcase. This covid nonsense has really slowed me down financially, but hopefully have some progress soon.

Anyone have an extra 40 ft of 8AN fuel line? Haha

If anyone is interested in the Minilite replicas hit me up. They are 14x6, 5x108, direct fit on any rwd Volvo.
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Old 08-25-2020, 06:56 PM   #308
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Love the progress! Looking good!

The Minilite wheels are sick, probably not economical to ship them though :(
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Old 08-25-2020, 08:11 PM   #309
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Thanks! Ya, pretty sure shipping that far would be a deal killer. If it wasn't so expensive to remove the tires it would be more worth it.
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Old 08-31-2020, 08:15 AM   #310
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Nice project.

Will follow along.
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Old 09-02-2020, 12:38 PM   #311
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Are you using a T56? I noticed you trimmed the shifter hole forward. I have an identical swap, but ended up having to cut the floor and move the shifter hole back about 1.50-1.75". Just curious what the difference may be. Anyway, I love the build. Great attention to detail. Keep up the good work.
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Old 09-02-2020, 08:53 PM   #312
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Thanks! The transmission is a TKO600. It has several shifter positions but the original location turned out to be closest. I have no idea why shifters end up in different locations. My engine can not move toward the firewall any more, it has about an inch clearance.
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Old 09-18-2020, 08:58 PM   #313
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Today I got to work on the hydroboost brake booster stuff. For those who don't know, it is basically hydraulic instead of vacuum, run in my case by the Corvette power steering pump. The hoses will be joined with the power steering lines. The point of doing this is to gain room for the valve cover and coil packs.

The unit is a rebuilt one from Rockauto, original fitment was an early '90s Astro van. It does not come with a pushrod for the master cylinder, so I found a kit on eBay. This kit is universal, meaning the pushrod is very long and made to be cut to length. Instructions for cutting this down included with the kit assume you are using a traditional Chevy master cylinder. I am using a '94 Mustang Cobra master cylinder so I had to figure something else out. Of course I failed at this and ended up about 0.554" too short. No problem, the cutoff piece just needed to be sized as a spacer.

The Mustang master cylinder does not fit, but if you make the mounting holes into slots, it fits perfectly.

Another consideration is the firewall mounting pattern, 3 1/2" square, so it needs new holes to be drilled. I didn't get there yet, but I did make a reinforcement plate for the interior as the booster is heavy. Made a gasket as well. Here is some crappy pics, I'll add an assembled pic later.

Forgot to mention the pedal side obviously needs work as well, not sure If I want to weld it or thread it to accept the Volvo linkage. And the protrusion of the housing might require a spacer of some sort.

The hydroboost unit (and yes I hate wearing shoes at home haha)



Slotted master cylinder



Cut down (too far) pushrod





Fix for the short pushrod



Reinforcement plate and gasket


Last edited by 2turbotoys; 09-19-2020 at 08:10 PM..
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Old 09-19-2020, 04:52 PM   #314
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Is there a particular reason for using hydroboost? That setup doesnt really seem to be saving you a whole lot of room over the standard booster and is just going to add a bunch more plumbing and failure points....plus, if you lose a belt, you lose power brakes. Had a friend lose his 03-04 cobra swapped fox due to this.
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Old 09-19-2020, 08:10 PM   #315
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The valve cover does not fit, especially with the coil pack on it. I have 3 different sets of valve covers, none fit with the coil pack. I have coil relocation brackets, but no good place to put them.

If I lose the belt, I lose all engine accessories. The brakes should still work, just not nearly as well. Pull the ebrake if absolutely needed, while engine braking. It does add 2 hoses, well one if you count the vacuum booster hose as one. I gain around 4" of clearance, which I think is substantial.

That is a legit concern, but losing a serpentine belt is unlikely if it is in new and kept ingood condition and all the pulleys are new, as they are. Maintenance will be key to reliability of course.

Did a bit more work on it today. I removed the clevis end from a Volvo booster and drilled it to fit the Astro booster rod. This allows the clevis to slide on the shaft so I can determine the length needed. I will weld it in place, and it will be ready to install. I just have to drill the firewall still.

I'm hoping to find a different fluid reservoir that sits level.





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Old 09-23-2020, 09:25 AM   #316
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What engine mounts did you use?
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Old 09-23-2020, 08:12 PM   #317
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STS Machining engine mounts. People say Giffen mounts give a bit more space (height), but I don't see how that is possible. Even with my Holley pan I had to move the vent tube on the steering rack, you could slide a piece of carboard between the rack and the pan. How can it be any lower without custom oil pan work? IDK
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Old 09-26-2020, 10:10 AM   #318
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2turbotoys View Post
STS Machining engine mounts. People say Giffen mounts give a bit more space (height), but I don't see how that is possible. Even with my Holley pan I had to move the vent tube on the steering rack, you could slide a piece of carboard between the rack and the pan. How can it be any lower without custom oil pan work? IDK
Giffin is building mounts for my Gen5 engine (L83) right now... he uses the Holley 302 series pans with his mounts.

Not sure how he does it, but he does.
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Old 09-26-2020, 08:33 PM   #319
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That pan is what almost everyone uses, and what I have on the car. It is not possible to mount the engine lower using that pan.
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Old 09-27-2020, 06:52 PM   #320
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Interesting to see you slotted the master cylinder. That would solve my problem of trying to fit my stock master on a different booster, but I was nervous about removing that much mounting material. Is the consensus that a slotted master is ok?
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Old 09-27-2020, 07:24 PM   #321
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I see no reason why it could be a problem. I didn't ask anyone about it since I don't know anyone else who has done that. Of course there will be a washer to clamp a little better. It tightens down fine, so I think it is all good.

You could just oval the hole out, but this was a lot faster and easier.

I really didn't want to use a cast iron GM style master cylinder as they are no fun to bleed and they look ugly.
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Old 09-29-2020, 10:54 PM   #322
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Got the mounting holes done today in between working on jacked up Jeeps, its gonna be a close fit to the strut tower with the master cylinder attached but should be fine. Will have to attach the MC before the final install. That was a bigger deal than I thought it would be to get the holes in the correct location, but nothing a carbide burr couldn't fix. More ovals than round holes, but it is done. Now gotta figure out the proper length of the rod that connects to the clutch pedal, and weld it up.

You can see how close it is to the coil, the reason I did this to begin with. I haven't seen any better options, not sure how so many people get this stuff to fit, or maybe they just don't post their fixes.

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Old 10-02-2020, 08:04 PM   #323
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So it doesn't fit when you bolt the steering column supports on (where the old master cylinder mounted), the bolt heads are in the way. Ok, so I made an aluminum spacer, now the rod to the brake pedal is too short, by the depth of the spacer .

To make it a bit more fun, the hydro boosts upper bolts are too close to the bend in the mounting plate. You can not tighten them down. So more aluminum spacer type things had to be made.

I have two options to fix the rod length (doing it tomorrow, so if ya got a strong opinion post it tonight please):
1- Cut the sides of the hydroboost mounting plate off and remove the spacer.
2- Just weld the clevis on and push the brake pedal in about 1/8" to attach it to the pedal, just loose that little bit of pedal travel. This is the easier thing to do and I don't see why it would be a problem.

Spacer plate



Donor that I made the spacer plate from haha, heated vacuum molding unit, it used to make tooth molds and other dental stuff.



You can see the folded edge of the mounting flange now clears the bolt heads, causing the rod length issue.

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Old 10-03-2020, 08:49 PM   #324
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Chose option 2. Now just need to get hoses, fittings, and install master cylinder. Then 1 thing one the car is ready to go haha. The clutch system is basically done as well, I just removed the master cylinder for a bit more space to work.

Next I would like to do the battery relocation, fuel lines, and work on the rear. The Ford 9" already has Volvo brackets on it, but for the most part they are only welded on one side, and I think I will reinforce most of them.

Still need to buy/trade/steal welding cable and a butt load of 8AN fittings. The rear just needs axles. Anyone have extra stuff they won't use, hit me up.

Also, from my research, I thought the Ford 9" axles were each supposed to be the same length after the housing was cut down. Mine are not, one is a good bit longer than the other. It used to live under a "jags that run or similar 5.0 swap" 240, the yoke is centered on the rear so it must be ok right? I don't know. Any insights are much appreciated.
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Old 10-05-2020, 09:26 PM   #325
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Volvo clevis welded to hydro boost and painted.



Anyone have anything to say about my 9" rear question?
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