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Old 06-18-2020, 02:01 PM   #1
Nickagriffin
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Default LH 2.4 to Microsquirt

Hey all, I'm deep into my microsquirt project right now and I have some questions.

How should I wire up the CPS? I understand that I need a pullup resistor but how to I decide which wire is signal and which is power? (Ground is obvious lol) Seems like I'm supposed to use VR- for signal and the TPSREF for power?

I'll add more questions as they come.
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Old 06-18-2020, 05:02 PM   #2
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Use VR+ and VR- for the stock crank sensor. Resistor goes across those two.
Check crank signal when cranking, and you’ll know if you need to invert the wires to get a clean signal.
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Old 06-18-2020, 05:04 PM   #3
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Page 19 has all the info you need.
http://yoshifab.com/store/docs/Micro...lvo4cyl240.pdf
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Old 06-18-2020, 07:36 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by culberro View Post
Thanks! That's a lot of helpful info.

I saw that they used a GM CLT sensor. Do I need one or can I use the stock bosch one?

Nick
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Old 06-18-2020, 07:46 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nickagriffin View Post
Thanks! That's a lot of helpful info.

I saw that they used a GM CLT sensor. Do I need one or can I use the stock bosch one?

Nick
You can use the stock one, but you have to wire it differently.... and it's not that great.

A CLT sensor from a LH2.2 Volvo is super common, fit's in the same hole as a LH2.4 one, and uses the same 2-pin JPT/bosch connector. This is what a lot of people use, and it works well.

You will also have to set the temp/ohm points for whatever sensor you use. This info can be found by searching the sensors serial number.
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Old 06-23-2020, 11:17 PM   #6
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Thanks for the info. I got everything wired up and my sensor seem to be reading correctly. The car starts if I give it some throttle but will die without any. I can keep it running when I hold the throttle down but it's really rough and the rpms seem to drop even if don't change how much throttle I'm giving it. I have the 60-2 wheel and I have the tooth one angle set to 84 degrees. I set it to 10 degrees fixed advance to try to rule timing out but it's still dying. I noticed the microsquirt isn't reading the wideband correctly but I didn't think that was the reason why it was dying so quickly.

I'm going to try to get it to idle tomorrow by messing with the throttle body since I got rid of the IAC.
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Old 06-24-2020, 12:35 PM   #7
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Sounds like you're on your way to a running and driving car.
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Old 06-24-2020, 12:47 PM   #8
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Check your timing, and verify TDC. I had similar results when I had a distributor with hall sensor that was clocked 180 degrees off.
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Old 07-27-2020, 03:33 PM   #9
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So I got the car running and driving decently, but I'm having some issues. It tends to cut out above 4k rpms but it doesn't up the sync-loss counter when that happens. Additionally, I was getting into boost today and it turned off all of the sudden. The transmission was still turning the engine over but the engine wasnt running at all. I coasted it to a gas station and it started right back up and I was able to drive away. I have no idea why that would be happening but if anyone has any ideas I'm all ears.
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Old 07-27-2020, 06:45 PM   #10
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Check that the Basic/Load_Settings>>>RevLimiter values are OK. Also, turn off all IgnitionSettings>>>NoiseFiltering settings. Noise filtering is a poor bandaid that can cause strange alternate failures.
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Old 07-27-2020, 09:39 PM   #11
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Noise filter is already off and limiter was set to 6000 rpm, fuel cut only, and spark retard mode set to progressive retard.

Does that all seem right?

Nick

Quote:
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Check that the Basic/Load_Settings>>>RevLimiter values are OK. Also, turn off all IgnitionSettings>>>NoiseFiltering settings. Noise filtering is a poor bandaid that can cause strange alternate failures.
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Old 07-27-2020, 10:41 PM   #12
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Another thing to note is that my tune is super rich, like below 10 afr in some spots. Could this be making it break up? Its hard to get the fueling adjusted at those higher rpms since it cuts out so hard.
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Old 07-28-2020, 12:41 AM   #13
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If it’s that rich in areas, just select the region and decrease fueling by 5% and see what happens, then repeat until you get to where you want to be.

Also, ignition timing can have a similar effect.
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Old 07-28-2020, 03:20 PM   #14
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Thanks for the advice. I reduced the fueling some but it's still happening. I think its a timing issue now but not sure how to check. I heard that one way is to set timing to fixed 10 degrees advanced and then use a timing light to make sure it's reading 10 degrees. If not, change the first tooth angle, correct? My #1 tooth angle is set to 84 degrees BTDC right now.

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If it’s that rich in areas, just select the region and decrease fueling by 5% and see what happens, then repeat until you get to where you want to be.

Also, ignition timing can have a similar effect.
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Old 07-28-2020, 03:24 PM   #15
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Here's my spark table for reference. Copied it from another TB'er for a baseline.
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Old 07-28-2020, 03:31 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nickagriffin View Post
I think its a timing issue now but not sure how to check. I heard that one way is to set timing to fixed 10 degrees advanced and then use a timing light to make sure it's reading 10 degrees. If not, change the first tooth angle, correct? My #1 tooth angle is set to 84 degrees BTDC right now.
Check your Tooth #1 angle before messing everything up.
It's like the first thing you need to check/verify/adjust when setting up an aftermarket ECU.

Your spark table has a section with high advance that's probably causing some issues (2600-redline, 100kpa and below), overall the rest of the table looks very conservative (and this might be causing some issues).
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Old 07-28-2020, 03:36 PM   #17
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Check this thread out: https://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=346790
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Old 07-28-2020, 03:40 PM   #18
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One other unlikely thought - maybe the spark is jumping to the wrong plug terminal at large advances???

If you remove the blocking/positioning plug from the adjustment slot in the distributor, you could try running with the disti rotated all the way to either end of the slot and see if it makes any difference.

Can you capture a log file of the misbehavior, and post it somewhere for download (with the .msq preferably)?

Edit: Oh, also check Boost>>>BoostControl>>>OverboostProtection settings.

Last edited by bobxyz; 07-28-2020 at 04:20 PM..
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Old 07-28-2020, 09:37 PM   #19
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So I adjusted my #1 tooth angle until the timing light read 10 degrees advanced when fixed at that. I went out an tested it, but it was the same problem. I got the log this time, and I saw that my Duty Cycle spikes to like 150%... Is this my problem? I never thought it was my injectors since the AFRs never leaned out but it seems like the only thing out of wack when it happened. I'll try to get the msq file posted.

Also, there is no overboost protection (probably should be lol, thought i was running 15 lbs at max throttle but log says more like 17psi at half(ish) throttle

Oh lastly, I noticed that I never updated my AFR table so it only goes up to 100kpa despite this being a boosted car, but I didn't know if that makes a difference or not when not using the auto tune feature
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Old 07-28-2020, 10:06 PM   #20
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Here's the link to the mlg file

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1C7i...ew?usp=sharing
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Old 07-28-2020, 10:09 PM   #21
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And here is the current MSQ

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1gNO...ew?usp=sharing

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Old 07-29-2020, 02:36 PM   #22
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Sorry, I can't download your files -- I don't know if it's because I don't have a google drive account, or if it's your file sharing settings.
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Old 07-31-2020, 12:07 AM   #23
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I changed the link sharing settings, should hopefully work now. I thought the tune was helping the cutting out problem but it did it for a little at like 3k rpms today. Wondering now if its noise from the CPS or something.
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Old 07-31-2020, 10:14 AM   #24
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I can download the files now - I didn't see anything in a quick review that would explain the cutting off.

As you noticed, the injector duty cycle of 150% is bad. What injectors and FPR are you using? The original NA ~20 lbs ones? If so, they're way too small for 15+ psi of boost.

I don't understand why the O2 didn't go very lean in boost when [desired] duty cycle went over 100%???

Your report of
Quote:
I was getting into boost today and it turned off all of the sudden. The transmission was still turning the engine over but the engine wasnt running at all. I coasted it to a gas station and it started right back up.
makes me wonder if you've hit some sort of MegaSquirt obscure firmware bug when going over 100% duty cycle?
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Old 07-31-2020, 11:33 AM   #25
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I’ve heard that if my required fuel is wrong then it can make the duty cycle above 100. Im using the stock NA FPR (2.5 bar i think?) and 850 turbo orange injectors. It never leans out under lots of load which makes me think the injectors are fine but im not sure.
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