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240 Befuddled . . . .

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Guess I am off to the web parts store. Anyone got a specific recommendation?

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I've had a lot of feedback from others and personal experience with early failure tank lift pumps from no-name units to over the parts counter at a Volvo dealership. In 2010 I started using Airtex for these centrifugal pumps despite all the brand name bashing they receive for their high pressure external pumps. So far, fingers crossed, all the Airtex are still playing the same tune they did after install, but I'm real curious about that one you have, because those plastic spring clamps are just what comes in the Airtex box, along with a short section of hose I'd never use in the tank. If you can take a photo of the pump showing some manufacturer's mark, with your permission, I'll add it to this collection: http://cleanflametrap.com/transferPump.htm Meanwhile, glad to hear your k-jet will survive.

PS, the Airtex number's in the writeup.
 
Got a new Delphi, made in America, pump in hand. From the looks of the age of the box this guy may have been manufactured when Delphi was part of General Motors.

But . . . it came with with a 2" piece of non-reinforced hose that looks far more like extruded butyl than the 30R-10 spec submerged fuel hose. It also came with squeeze clamps for the extra large diameter hose.

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With this experience it would make me feel better to have the SAE code printed on the hose. The local NAPA store did not stock the 30R-10 but can get it. Ebay sellers included several marine supply stores which I have a couple around Lake Blue Ridge.


For Art: The numbers are E2487 and 120212CT and are hard to read with eyes. The E2487 are on both the old and new cases.

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The E2487 is an Airtex number. Looks just like the E8778 I've been using successfully.

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But that black goo looks like it came from one of the accessories boxed with the pump, none of which I've dared to put in the tanks. Maybe your pump is still OK.
 
Dumb question but are these.pumps ever used as external pumps, hence the plastics clamps?
 
I am sure that they will work just fine in my new parts washer. One of several upgrades.

Art, looks like you have one of the big butyl short hoses also. Ever used it?
 
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Art, looks like you have one of the big butyl short hoses also. Ever used it?

Tom, no, I have never used any of those parts that come in the box except for the nuts to hold the original choke-protected electrical leads on the pump. I like the plastic hose clamps, but haven't dared to put them on anything. Note the + and - is cast into the white plastic - easy to miss.
 
SAE 30R-10 submersible fuel hose not available anywhere close.

Back to ebay. $8.49 for a three inch piece expected Thursday.

NAPA could get it this afternoon for $32 for a 1 foot piece.

They didn't realize they were dealing with Tight Wad Tom.
 
SAE 30R-10 submersible fuel hose not available anywhere close.

Back to ebay. $8.49 for a three inch piece expected Thursday.

NAPA could get it this afternoon for $32 for a 1 foot piece.

They didn't realize they were dealing with Tight Wad Tom.

I was lucky. A fellow Volvo owner sprang for the whole foot and popped half in the mail to me claiming my remote help made the exchange more than fair. Amazing how much that stuff costs! :)
 
OK, the $4 an inch hose arrived. It did not have the SAE 30R-10 printed on it but it did have 'submersible fuel hose' there.

Siphoned the gas out of the tank and only got less than 6 gallons, 5 of which I had put in only a couple weeks ago. Interior of the tank looks OK. at least no rust areas. I will get some brand new gas tomorrow, get the pump in and expect nirvana. Often disappointed.

One last question: Is the pictured wiring correct? The replacement pump terminals are not marked and this is sorta how I remember it. The yellow ground wire was probably brown 30 years ago.

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One more last question: I could not find a receipt for a lift pump replacement so this one, with the dissolving hose may have been one replaced by Leroy during his pillage of this car. I carefully save all receipts though carefully retained out of the wife's view. No one should ever create a spreadsheet accounting for restoration expenses.

I have had the pump out to replace the tank and find the loose float ball and did not find a gasket between the tank and the top of the hose assembly back then. The problem is that none of the supplied O rings with the new pump fit the top of the hose assembly except one that is 3/16" thick. I am not sure that the collar clamp will pull that down to the limits of the rotating clamping lips.

Do I need to search for a thinner 'O' ring?
 
Hey Tom,

3/16" is the correct thickness for the bung seal. Durometer and composition is another question, that's why I chose to get genuine parts for this in the past. Also, sometimes I think the aftermarket folks forget what we've done to our gasoline here in the US.

As for the connections, the yellow ground wire was always yellow inside your tank. I forgot your year, but I think the brown wires inside the tank were only on the older cars with the VDO pumps before they went to AC. It is brown outside.

You have to have good eyes to see the + and - on the pump's shiny white end casting. Look at the arrow pointing to a little boss in this picture and check for the polarity ID. Don't just look at the picture and wire it this way, the picture is an example of the wrong way.

So glad you didn't wind up with a gummed up distributor and warm up regulator. You might want to change the filter, though.

From http://cleanflametrap.com/transferPump.htm:
image014.jpg


Check yours. Looking at the next photo, note the motor lugs are facing toward the camera. The black wire needs to be at the bottom instead of at the top. Looking closely at the white plastic holder, you'll even see "+" and "—" molded in. The yellow ground wire must go to "—" and the black to "+".
 
Thanks Art!

There was a blob of the goo in the metal tube out of the failed hose but only that little piece. I attempted to run the pumps with the new pressure pump in place but couldn't get any gas. Just hoping that nothing made it to the new pump.

I replaced the filter.

Gas after lunch and we will see.
 
Cranked right up! Responds to throttle.

Been here before . . . several times.

The control pressure is reading the expected fuel distributor regulator pressure of about 70 psi. Should be low 20's with a cold engine. Appears that the CPR is blocked or at least is not regulating.

Off it comes . . . again . . . probably for about the 4th time.

But the rest of the fuel system seems to be working as intended. Both pumps now known new and a new filter.

Are we having fun yet?
 
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