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brake upgrade- 142

Matt Dupuis said:
We're doing 11.75 x 1.25 Wilwoods in Dale's 122, but keep that under your hat for now.
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I'm in the progress of gathering parts to upgrade my '65 122 brakes. I was planning on using the '70-'73 1800 brake stuff (calipers/backing plates/mounting brackets/brake lines[front and rear]/proportioning valves/etc). I was going to leave the rear drums alone, and add a second brake line to get one brake line per rear brake.

I'm still working on the master cylinder (MC)-> limited space because the B230 intake on the driver's side. A '79 mazda 626 MC has the correct vertical bolt pattern as a 122 MC, and is a dual circuit MC.

I'm looking for a brake reservoir that will fit the mazda MC. I thought I could use one from a 240, but the reservoir nipples are 1/2", but I need one that has 3/8". Anyone have a suggestions?

BTW-I'm running a B21F/M41 megasquirted in my 122.

But... I'm interested in what others have done with the brakes on 122s.

Paul
 
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Captain Bondo said:
How much tweaking did the 240 calipers need? It's too bad they need less material and not more since it'd be easy to space them out. Still seems weird in that people claim to have put 164 calipers on 240's and etc.
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looks like you found out the hard way. was going to get you some meassurements, but yeh its pretty much just the thickness of the little tabs on the caliper ears like you found out.
as far as the claims of putting ate calipers on a 240 . i would not be suprissed, the castings are suck junk that iv'e seen them shimed just to fit from the factory on a 140/160. as far as the girling caliper interchangability maybe the non vented ones interechange , but the vented ones defanatly do not.

old tread http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=27871&highlight=164+brakes
 
The old guy speaks

Back in the 70's and early eighties we and ipd used ate vented rotors and calipers from a 160 in our race cars . They worked great. We drilled a passage between the cylinders so we could the split the brake system front and rear as opposed to the twice triangle system. Raced many IMSA Pro and SCCA amatuer races with no brake problems and we had better brakes than the competition. The only improvement if I could do it over would be to add ABS to any of the older 240 or 140 cars . In the rain at Thunderhill, my 84 turbo 240 doesn't brake as well as any car with ABS.

Carlo
 
Well, after having a 160 calier nearly literally break in half and spray brake fluid all over the front wheel, I'm going to have to reccomend people steer a wide path around 'em. ;-)

240 calipers are cheaper and more easily found, and have way more pad area.

It's definitely some trial and error with the grinder but well worth it. I'd just suggest that you DO try to keep the face that mounts to the steering knucke square to the rotor. I don't know how likely it would be that an out of square piston that is loaded diagonally would sieze/bind/etc, but I think it's definitely not worth testing any more than you have to.

The R stuff is nice but I've been through my arguments against it before. ;-)
 
Ok I am very interested but a bit confused:

turboluv: are you saying the 240 calipers bolt right up (after drilling out to 1/2") with the original 140 non-vented rotor?

So the removal of material is only required when fitting the 240 calipers and 240 rotors to original hubs.

Has anyone swapped the rear brakes (onto a standard 140) as well or just the fronts?

Will 240 rotors fit the rear with no mods? Same with the calipers?

Also my final question is regarding disc size, the 240 discs are smaller (pardon the metrics): 263mm front and 281mm rear, compared to the 140/160 272mm front and 295mm rear. Are there any problems with the pad material going past the outer edge of the 240 rotors (since the calipers must have been spaced out further from the center to allow for the originally larger rotors) ?

Cheers :cheers:
 
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I'm writing a how-to as we speak on installing 240 Girling calipers, 164 front rotors, part numbers, milling dimensions, etc. onto a 140. Stay tuned. Should be up by the end of the week.
 
There is another threa don the 140 brake upgrade where I outlined doing the swap. Basically you have the grin the 240 claipers a bit to tweak the offset. It's about 3mm max. Basically you grind the inside raised section of the bosses that the caliper bolts go through.
 
besides grinding/millling the mounting surface you also have to grind out the inside of the caliper. rotor flex is alot more than i expected. i gave myself 1mm clearance between the rotor and the calliper. did fine for the first couple of days during break in. then once i got the rottor nice and hot it touched on the inside upper edge. it didn't do any major damage and will not hit anymore ,so i'm leaving it for now. so if i were to do it over i'de make sure it had atleast 2mm clearance.

vol142 said:
So the removal of material is only required when fitting the 240 calipers and 240 rotors to original hubs.
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none of us are using 240 rotors, we are using 160 vented rotors. the 240 rottors are to small in diamiter to work with any volvo caliper and 140/160 spindle. with 240 calipers and 160 vented rotors you will have to remove matereal.

vol142 said:
Has anyone swapped the rear brakes (onto a standard 140) as well or just the fronts?
Will 240 rotors fit the rear with no mods? Same with the calipers?
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the calipers will bold up just fine after being re drilled to 1/2.
why would u want to go to 240 rotors? 14's?
vol142 said:
Also my final question is regarding disc size, the 240 discs are smaller (pardon the metrics): 263mm front and 281mm rear, compared to the 140/160 272mm front and 295mm rear. Are there any problems with the pad material going past the outer edge of the 240 rotors (since the calipers must have been spaced out further from the center to allow for the originally larger rotors) ?
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the 240 rotors will not work front or rear with the calipers in the stock location. the pads will only be on the rotors half way. why go with 240 rotors. the 140/160 rotors are still available and close to the same price as 240 ones.
the only reason i could see converting to smaller brakes is if your dead set on running 14's
 
Actually, it really wouldn't make a difference as the caliper is still in the same place. He'd need to redrill the caliper in a way that can't easily be done in order to even run the smaller rotors.

The 164 rotors are 9mm larger diameter than the 240's just to give an idea.
 
Back in 2004, I helped adapt some 240 ABS calipers and 164 rotors to fit a 140 spindle.

I don't remember needing an adapter bracket but I do remember having to slightly machine the ears of the 240 calipers. It has been a long time though so I could be remembering it wrong.
 
blkaplan said:
Back in 2004, I helped adapt some 240 ABS calipers and 164 rotors to fit a 140 spindle.

I don't remember needing an adapter bracket but I do remember having to slightly machine the ears of the 240 calipers. It has been a long time though so I could be remembering it wrong.
Click to expand...
You are correct, that is all we did on our race car, along with new hard lines, anyway.
 
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